No Spark - FIXED!

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

In Photo #1, repeat the Key On measurements with a piece of paper between the points inside the distributor. The voltages you report are consistent with the points being closed.

Your voltages are consistent with a car wired up per Henry's original scheme, the key switch is in between the coil and the distributor points. There is nothing wrong with that, it just helps to know when troubleshooting.

I assume battery is connected Positive Ground? If so, look on the coil where you have the red wire connected -- it should be labeled with a little + symbol. If not, swap those 2 coil wires.

Good luck with it.

Will measure with the key on and a paper between the points. And yes, the battery is connected to positive ground the red wire on the coil is connected to the -- terminal.
The car had been running great and driving on long distances fine. I parked if, didn't run it for a day, went out to go to the show, it started and ran for like two seconds and died, I started it again and it ran for two seconds and died and now just cranks over.
Thanks for your input, I'll post the results later today when I go home.

[katy]

Is the under dash gas valve turned on?

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by katy

Is the under dash gas valve turned on?

Yes. I have gas, but no spark.

[gdmn852]

Hello, a lot of good advice here, when I have electrical problems, the condenser is usually the first suspect, but you have checked that , next is the wire that connects the points on upper plate to the lower plate, wire can loosen or break because it moves with spark rod control. Ignition switch contacts also can be a problem,also is you have a known good coil you may want to change to it . As a long time Model A enthusiast found,unfortunately, just because it’s a new part doesn’t mean it’s good. Good luck,and don’t give up!!

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by gdmn852

Hello, a lot of good advice here, when I have electrical problems, the condenser is usually the first suspect, but you have checked that , next is the wire that connects the points on upper plate to the lower plate, wire can loosen or break because it moves with spark rod control. Ignition switch contacts also can be a problem,also is you have a known good coil you may want to change to it . As a long time Model A enthusiast found,unfortunately, just because it’s a new part doesn’t mean it’s good. Good luck,and don’t give up!!

Thank you. I have two coils and tried them both. I have also tried two different condensers. When I replaced the top plate in the distributor, I checked the wire under the plate and everything was good, no breaks, wear, etc.
I'll keep plugging away.

[Bob Johnson]

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OK, Try this. Disconnect the high voltage wire from the top of the distributor. Remove the distributor cap, body (horn) and rotor. Have the end of the high voltage wire (still connected to the coil) near a ground point but not touching it. About 1/8". Turn over the engine with the ignition on. You should see a spark going from the end of the wire to the ground. You should also see the points open and close with a spark.


Bob

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Bob Johnson

OK, Try this. Disconnect the high voltage wire from the top of the distributor. Remove the distributor cap, body (horn) and rotor. Have the end of the high voltage wire (still connected to the coil) near a ground point but not touching it. About 1/8". Turn over the engine with the ignition on. You should see a spark going from the end of the wire to the ground. You should also see the points open and close with a spark.


Bob

I will try this today when I get home and post results

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Will measure with the key on and a paper between the points. And yes, the battery is connected to positive ground the red wire on the coil is connected to the -- terminal.
The car had been running great and driving on long distances fine. I parked if, didn't run it for a day, went out to go to the show, it started and ran for like two seconds and died, I started it again and it ran for two seconds and died and now just cranks over.
Thanks for your input, I'll post the results later today when I go home.

If your battery is connected Positive Ground, then the Red wire connected to the coil must be connected to the post with the little + sign next to the post. Not to the negative (-) post.

Have you disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor, swing it back away from the carburetor, opened the gas valve inside the car under the tank, and confirmed that fuel flows in a good steady stream out of the fuel line?

"Runs for a few seconds and then dies" is usually fuel related.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

If your battery is connected Positive Ground, then the Red wire connected to the coil must be connected to the post with the little + sign next to the post. Not to the negative (-) post.

Have you disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor, swing it back away from the carburetor, opened the gas valve inside the car under the tank, and confirmed that fuel flows in a good steady stream out of the fuel line?

"Runs for a few seconds and then dies" is usually fuel related.

Jim,
I'll double check the gas. My car's battery is positive to ground, I will double check the coil connections tonight when I get home.

[johnbuckley]

hotwire following this diagram to help locate any wiring fault. But since you say "With the key on if I open and close the points by hand there is spark " I would supsect a fault at the points/rotor.

[sconnors]

Was able to speak with a very knowledgeable Model A friend and we did some testing and think we have it narrowed down to the ignition cable being faulty. I've ordered one and will keep you guys posted!! Much thanks!

[Jim/GA]

If you screwed the cable into the base of the distributor too far, it can short out things inside. You may be able to fix it by just unscrewing the cable a turn or two.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by sconnors

I used the Nu-Rex timing wrench with the motor at top dead center. But I will double check the gap.

Engine at TDC is not where you adjust the points gap. It is where the points open. Look at the points cam follower to make sure it is at the top of a lobe, then check/adjust.

[sconnors]

Still not starting. New ignition switch and new ignition cable installed. Car just cranks. When I pull the coil wire and turn the engine, I have spark jumping from the wire to the head. When I pull a plug and turn the engine over, I have spark at the plug. As suggested by someone on the Ford Barn, I even tried spraying a little starter fluid in the cylinder before I put the plug back in and it still didn’t fire.
Here are the current voltages:
Key off:
• Starter (red) 6.28
• Starter (black) 6.28
• Coil + 6.25
• Coil – 6.25
• Points open 0.03
• Points closed 0.03
Key on:
• Starter (red) 6.28
• Starter (black) 6.05
• Coil + 0.30
• Coil 5.64
• Points open 6.22
• Points closed 0.16
ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Still not starting. New ignition switch and new ignition cable installed. Car just cranks. When I pull the coil wire and turn the engine, I have spark jumping from the wire to the head. When I pull a plug and turn the engine over, I have spark at the plug. As suggested by someone on the Ford Barn, I even tried spraying a little starter fluid in the cylinder before I put the plug back in and it still didn’t fire.
Here are the current voltages:
Key off:
• Starter (red) 6.28
• Starter (black) 6.28
• Coil + 6.25
• Coil – 6.25
• Points open 0.03
• Points closed 0.03
Key on:
• Starter (red) 6.28
• Starter (black) 6.05
• Coil + 0.30
• Coil 5.64
• Points open 6.22
• Points closed 0.16
ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Are you sure the dizzy Pigtail is not shorting out??? Sure you have gas to the carb!!!!! Spray carb! see if starts! with key on are you getting a spark by opening and closing the points with small screw driver etc?? at the points??!

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Thank you. I have two coils and tried them both. I have also tried two different condensers. When I replaced the top plate in the distributor, I checked the wire under the plate and everything was good, no breaks, wear, etc.
I'll keep plugging away.

You checked the wire under plate it may look good BUT it could be grounded to body of dizzy??!! Why did you replace the top plate??

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by sconnors

I used the Nu-Rex timing wrench with the motor at top dead center. But I will double check the gap.

It is probably mentioned somewhere but did you check the timing when the piston was a TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. Maybe your timing is 180° out?

Sounds like you have checked everything else.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

Are you sure the dizzy Pigtail is not shorting out??? Sure you have gas to the carb!!!!! Spray carb! see if starts! with key on are you getting a spark by opening and closing the points with small screw driver etc?? at the points??!

With the key on I’m getting spark when opening and closing the points and there is gas to the carb

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

You checked the wire under plate it may look good BUT it could be grounded to body of dizzy??!! Why did you replace the top plate??

I replaced the top plate with a new condenser and points set. Trying to rule things out.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

It is probably mentioned somewhere but did you check the timing when the piston was a TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. Maybe your timing is 180° out?

Sounds like you have checked everything else.

I had the engine at tdc and used the NU-Rex timing wrench and set the point gap at 22