No Spark - FIXED!

[sconnors]

FIXED: Y-Blockhead was right on, the timing was 180 degrees out! Not sure if I mistakenly did that when I put the new top plate on, but once I reset it and put everything back together she fired right up!!
Can't thank you fellas enough!!!!!

Still not starting. New ignition switch and new ignition cable installed. Car just cranks. When I pull the coil wire and turn the engine, I have spark jumping from the wire to the head. When I pull a plug and turn the engine over, I have spark at the plug. As suggested by someone on the Ford Barn, I even tried spraying a little starter fluid in the cylinder before I put the plug back in and it still didn’t fire.
Here are the current voltages:
Key off:
• Starter (red) 6.28
• Starter (black) 6.28
• Coil + 6.25
• Coil – 6.25
• Points open 0.03
• Points closed 0.03
Key on:
• Starter (red) 6.28
• Starter (black) 6.05
• Coil + 0.30
• Coil 5.64
• Points open 6.22
• Points closed 0.16
ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

ORIGINAL POST
Went to go to a car show this morning and my 1930 Model A started for a couple seconds and then stalled/died. After that it would just crank and not start. I ascertained it has no spark by pulling a plug and leaving it connected to the spark plug wire and cranking the motor while have the tip resting on the exhaust manifold and no spark.
Things to note, the car has recently had the following installed and has been running great:
• New coil
• New coil wire
• New distributor body
• New distributor cap
• New distributor upper plate including points and condenser
• New plugs
• New plug wires
I attempted to narrow the problem down by breaking out my voltmeter and taking some measurements (see the attached pictures). I’m not too good at these electrical gremlins and am hoping by looking at my pictures someone can narrow down what my problem might be.
Further, with the key on if I open and close the points by hand there is spark there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Scott

[meteorgray]

Is the gas valve open? I have forgotten that.

[cadillac512]

Does the rotor turn when cranking? If not, cam gear may have sheared teeth.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by meteorgray

Is the gas valve open? I have forgotten that.

Yes

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

Does the rotor turn when cranking? If not, cam gear may have sheared teeth.

Yes it turns

[mcgarrett]

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Try switching to a condenser that is known to be working properly. Just because a condenser is new doesn't mean that it's good.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

Try switching to a condenser that is known to be working properly. Just because a condenser is new doesn't mean that it's good.

I did try another one an no luck.

[cadillac512]

With key on, every time the points open (from a closed position)you should get spark from the coil wire end that hooks to the distributor cap. Opening them by hand should make that spark. The points ground one side of the coil when they close, and upon opening the spark is generated. Your points seem to be operating correctly (as long as they are opening/closing while cranking-worth checking!!) so the problem may be coil or condenser.

[philosofriend]

Take out the spark plugs, put the car in neutral. Have someone turn the engine with a crank, or you can usually turn it by turning the fan blades. Look t the points to see if they are opening and closing. If you put voltmeter across the points it should read zero when the points are closed and five point something with the points open and the ignition on. You said the you got spark when you opened the points by hand but you want to prove that the distributer cam is opening the points and making spark. The spark you are looking for is between a nail put in the wire from the coil to the distributer to any metal on the car.

When you said "there is spark there" did you mean at the points? If so, your condenser is probably bad. Among other things one job of the condenser is to reduce the size of the spark across the points.

[Synchro909]

Again, philosofriend and I are on the same wavelength. You have replaced pretty much everything but have you made sure the points are set properly. With the cam follower at the top of the cam lobe, set them to 0.018-0.022 inches. Have the timing lever at the top when you do this or at the first notch down.

[nkaminar]

One simple thing to check is that the high tension wire is pushed all the way into the coil and the top of the distributor.

[Dino's A]

Try shooting some carb cleaner in each spark plug hole, or gasoline. Crank it enough if it's even flooded. See if she pops a few times or runs briefly. Worth a try if not already done.

I know you changed out the condenser, but it sure sounds like that condition!

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Again, philosofriend and I are on the same wavelength. You have replaced pretty much everything but have you made sure the points are set properly. With the cam follower at the top of the cam lobe, set them to 0.018-0.022 inches. Have the timing lever at the top when you do this or at the first notch down.

I used the Nu-Rex timing wrench with the motor at top dead center. But I will double check the gap.

[CT Jack]

If you have a multimeter check to see if the switch is opening and closing properly.

[Cory Moffat]

Is that a oil cooled coil mounted upside down?

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Cory Moffat

Is that a oil cooled coil mounted upside down?

It’s how I’ve seen every Model A coil mounted on the firewall

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by CT Jack

If you have a multimeter check to see if the switch is opening and closing properly.

Did you see the pics I posted of the switch voltage with the key on and the key off? What else would I do to test that?

[Bob Bidonde]

Get an experienced Model A'er from the most local Model A club to visit and help you.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Get an experienced Model A'er from the most local Model A club to visit and help you.

Trying but not much luck. Most club members are well over an hour away. I've reached out to Al Clarke at the Go Devil Garage.

[Jim/GA]

In Photo #1, repeat the Key On measurements with a piece of paper between the points inside the distributor. The voltages you report are consistent with the points being closed.

Your voltages are consistent with a car wired up per Henry's original scheme, the key switch is in between the coil and the distributor points. There is nothing wrong with that, it just helps to know when troubleshooting.

I assume battery is connected Positive Ground? If so, look on the coil where you have the red wire connected -- it should be labeled with a little + symbol. If not, swap those 2 coil wires.

Good luck with it.