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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 27
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Which vendor has the best quality door latch? Catalogs show quite a price difference. I'm looking for USA-made, of course, but want the best quality part. Thanks for your help!
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 5,346
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I think you would be better off buying original latches and restoring them if they need it. That is what I am doing for my 29 CCPU. CCPU latches show up on eBay fairly often. I think someone told me that the repro latches are made by a company in Australia, however they could actually be made in China or other cheap labor country. I haven't heard about the quality of the CCPU door latches. I know repro open car latches are not well made, but that doesn't mean pickup latches are poorly made. This is just my opinion.
Rusty Nelson |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 611
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Unless things have changed, door latches are not available. I have a 28 pickup and years ago that was one part that I searched for. They were not making them. I didn't look however in Bratton's or ?? before I answered. If the parts houses have them now, my guess is it is going to be made by one manufacturer and then carried by many.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jordan, MN
Posts: 1,416
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It sounds like you want to replace rather than restore. I cannot answer your question as to best made but I have used the new CCPU door latches from Snyder's and found them to be well built and function flawlessly. The 2015 catalog states "USA" so I have to assume that means made in the USA. Save your originals to pass along to those that like rebuilding them.
The Snyder's latches I used were purchased in November of 2015. Good day. The photos and information below is from the Snyder's website: A-800811926-27 Coupe/Tudor 1928-29 CC Truck Door Latch Finally, new American made latches that fit the 1928-29 Closed Cab Truck as well as the 1926-27 Coupe and Tudor Sedan. The latch body is zinc plated, the actuating arm is nickel plated as was the original. The latches function just like the originals, the driver's side will lock and the passenger side has provisions for the lock cylinder. An Excellent Reproduction! Choose a Variation
Last edited by Dave in MN; 03-02-2016 at 01:31 PM. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 141
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Talk to Steve at Bert's Model A Center.
I had reason to advise Steve about 6 months ago of a small issue with some Repro latches. I forget the exact issue but I am sure Steve will recall as he was going to contact the Maker to have it corrected. What I do recall is that Steve said there are two Makers of latches. So best talk to him first and he also sells them. Restoring old latches is slow if you need parts and buying restored latches from say ebay does not guarantee that they are done well. One restored latch I purchased from ebay a good number of years ago turned out to be missing the internal lock mechanism gismo, try and find one of those suckers. I borrowed one and hand copied it - what a job..... Also when opening the old latches up, you must be careful not to break the tags off. |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Monterey Peninsula,California
Posts: 194
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,432
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Quote:
I find it alarming that parts suppliers even accepted these POS as part of their inventory. They obviously did no checks on their suitability for doing the job before trying to make a few $ on them. Over here, sellinhg a product not suitable for the purpose for which it was sold would leave the vulnerable to a law suit. Obviously, consumer protection laws are weak in the US.
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When all is said and done, more is said than done. That's why we judge people on what they do, not what they say. I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. If I am not in trouble, I've done something wrong. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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I got new latches for my '29 Coupe from Brattons, VERY reasonable, & looks like stainless???---They are SO pretty, that I DIDN'T even paint them!
Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,968
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Quote:
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1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons! |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Quote:
here, SeaSlug, you kin do it, whin Ol' Bill gits flustered, I jist "tell" him, recomember now, jist one little thing at a time----Fresno wuzn't built in a DAY! Then he looks at me FUNNY![]() Buster T.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 5,013
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Back about 2005 when I was still active in the Model A (before the job REALLY changed) I had a pair of 29 CC pickup door handles restored by PV Antique Auto out in Western MA. I was stationed in my work nearby and it gave me something to do nights in the motel. They did a pretty fair job to include the plastic piece in the square (which they indicate was originally fabric covering painted with MANY coats of paint - which the plastic simulates perfectly - and is more weather resistant.)
I was pleased they did the work as the door handles are made up of discrete pieces which all have to be disassembled - and then reassembled after plating/restoration - and then carefully soldered on the back side. On receipt of the handle and after having paid and still having some money left over (and a good income) I decided to experiment and buy a pair of the then "repop" available handle. Just to compare, mind you. The repop was a little more than 1/3rd the price of the restored handles. Well, the first may not be the LAST Model A truck I restore. The repop handle was "close." Not exact. For instance, the repop was not soldered on the backside. Super glued, I think. And the cylinder portion connecting handle to body escutcheon was "straight" and not tapered as were the originals. For judging, an original handle is the ONLY way to go - since the differences are apparent to the knowing. But for functionality and appearance among the unwashed masses, the repop was AOK. A quality - good - but not exceptionally accurate repop. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kingwood, Texas
Posts: 448
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The question is about Latches not Handles.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 779
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The more expensive USA made door latch is an excellent choice. We reviewed them when they first came out. Well made and very exact.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 5,013
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Thank you. I did see that after making the entry - but decided to leave it. If one is interested in latch they might be interested in handle. Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#15 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 27
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Thanks so much, everyone. I'm going to go with the USA made from Snyders! Appreciate your thoughts.
Jim |
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Other thing is a hint for fitting the separate lock barrel shaft. Work out what length you require when using a repro item. Cut the shaft to length and then drill a small countersunk/hole into the square end of the shaft. When fitting the shaft take a piece of wire or scribe and poke it from the inside of the door latch (thru the square pawl hole)and find the countersink and let the wire guide the end of the shaft thru into the square lock pawl. |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Portsmouth, VA
Posts: 66
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A recently purchased driver side door latch from S&J functioned fine but did not lock as original. (Sent it back w/o issues)
Snyder's appears the way to go if you only need one side. Bratton's only sells the pair. |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 141
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I did some checking and can tell you the issue with the repro latch relates to the length of the main hinge pin.
The main hinge pin is the shaft that holds the tongue which clicks into the "B"pillar in place. If this shaft is a touch too long then it interferes with the rotation of the locking pawl and wont let the pawl complete its full turn during attempting to lock the door with the key. It is an easy fix and I believe the maker has been advised so I guess it is all fixed now. I hope my use of terms to describe things is under stood. If not feel free to advise. |
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