1935 Ford Juice Brakes

[Newc]

Hi all; Just a note- If you want to use a dual system.... The early '60s Cadillacs used a dual drum/drum master cyl. that is set up for the big Ford brake lines. I had one in my '34 pickup, with a homebuilt mount and push rod. Newc

[Mr. Will]

I started on the conversion to hydraulic brakes this week. Also will be changing out the 4:11's for a set of 3:54 gears. Hear are a few pics.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Looks like fun . Would be nice to keep this thread going as a progress post with pictures

[john mullen]

I just read the post and would like more info on the brake energizers mentioned . also a supplier link. Thanks John

[B-O-B]

Go back & reread the beginning posts most of the info is there.

[FlatheadTed]

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Here's the link to the last post on the subject .The floater energizer concept allows the shoes to self centre therefore compensating for ware ,plus it uses the full shoe rather than 3/4 of the shoe .Also the rear shoe pushes the top of the front shoe changing it to two leading edge shoes , This harnesses some of the energy in the revolving drum to apply the shoes for a stronger braking force .Ted

[https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40080

QUOTE=john mullen;878526]I just read the post and would like more info on the brake energizers mentioned . also a supplier link. Thanks John[/QUOTE]

[Mr. Will]

I got a little more done today. I took the rear spring apart and re-ached the main leaf to reverse the eyes. I laid the spring on the floor and marked the arch with a piece of keel then laid out lines from the center of the spring on 2" intervals. I used a couple pieces of angle iron to rest the spring on and a third to use as the press. I tacked a piece of 3/16" plate onto the upper angle so I would have a flat area to press from. You can see from the pics the first pass then the second I skipped the pic of the third pass the then the final, four passes in all. I had already done this on the front. Here are a few pics.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Thanks! Great info. I may do that on my '35 std 5w RS coupe as it goes back together.

[Mr. Will]

Got the steering arms bent and new bushings in today. Also got the races and seals to put the rear end back together. Will do the set up tomorrow.

[Mr. Will]

I got my 39' pedals in and am working on the brake lines now. The clutch rod in my 35' does not line up with the 39' pedal clevis, I do have a few ideas on how to address it but thought I would ask here for some input on how some of the other members worked this out. Any pictures you guys might be able to share would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Mr. Will

I got my 39' pedals in and am working on the brake lines now. The clutch rod in my 35' does not line up with the 39' pedal clevis, I do have a few ideas on how to address it but thought I would ask here for some input on how some of the other members worked this out. Any pictures you guys might be able to share would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan

Okay I did some research and it looks like the 39' cross shaft arm will solve the issue. Now can I change that arm on my transmission with the trany in and which way does the pin drive out? Also will I have to use a longer shaft or will the 35' shaft and clevis work?

Thanks again
Dan

[V8COOPMAN]

I believe, in essence, you'll need to replace the clutch release arm on the trans with a '39 unit, both to facilitate lining-up, AND to match the ratio with the '39 pedal. DD

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

I believe, in essence, you'll need to replace the clutch release arm on the trans with a '39 unit, both to facilitate lining-up, AND to match the ratio with the '39 pedal. DD

Yes I understand that I have ordered the 39' clutch release arm but was wondering just how the pin holding the original arm drove out. Can it be removed with the transmission in the car and does it have to be driven out a certain way? In other words what is the correct procedure to remove the arm?

[V8COOPMAN]

The easiest way to remove the original pin is to grind the HEAD away with an abrasive disc or such. SOME pins may still take some "grunt" to get them moving. If it will not tap out with a hammer and drift, I'd use a pneumatic impact driver with a pointed tip. Should be room to do it in the car if ya hold your tongue just right. DD

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

The easiest way to remove the original pin is to grind the HEAD away with an abrasive disc or such. SOME pins may still take some "grunt" to get them moving. If it will not tap out with a hammer and drift, I'd use a pneumatic impact driver with a pointed tip. Should be room to do it in the car if ya hold your tongue just right. DD

Okay that is what I thought but didn't want to cut the head off if it was not necessary. Thanks for your help.

[Mr. Will]

Got the rear end assembled with the 3:54 gears and the brake lines all plumbed both front and back. I still need to make the small brake line from the master to the rear brake line hose. I will do that once I have the rear end in. The front end is also in and had all my brake shoes arked to match the drums as well. I also replaced the original transmission mount. My Wheels will be back from the powder coater early this week and I can mount the tires and set it back down on the ground.

[Mart]

Nice clean work, Will, a pleasure to follow along. I like the brake line straightener, was that something you bought or made yourself?

Mart.

[Brad]

Richard is your best bet I bought his setup years ago excellent guy to work with

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Brad

Richard is your best bet I bought his setup years ago excellent guy to work with

Is this the "Richard" you mean?

Richard Lacy at [email protected], (626) 338-2282

Charlie Stephens

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Mart

Nice clean work, Will, a pleasure to follow along. I like the brake line straightener, was that something you bought or made yourself?

Mart.

I bought the tubing straightener but I have seen guys that have made them out of plywood and some pulleys.

I got the 39' cross shaft arm installed on the trany and the clutch rod hooked up but when the clutch pedal is pushed down it hits the frame and there is not very much throw. It hits the frame before it goes to the floor. Is this the norm for the 39' pedals? I did a quick test fit of the floor board panel that the pedals go through and it looks like maybe I might have to bend the clutch pedal arm? Is this the case? Any input would be appreciated.