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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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MAFCA Resto Guidelines state that a cast aluminum step plate was used from 9/29 to the end of production. Are there any distinguishing features to help discern a repo from an original? These pictured may be repos, the came off a car that was a daily driver in the 60s and may have been replaced.
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Tim Downtown, Ca |
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#2 | |
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#3 |
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Mine has A-41563 stamped on the underside.
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#4 |
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Thank you,
These have the A-4156 stamped into the bottom and have a circular cast mark in each quadrant.
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Tim Downtown, Ca |
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#5 |
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Not to interupt this thread but what is a good way to restore these to original condition?
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#6 | |
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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#9 |
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That doesn't apply to the round ones except the '29 cast iron (painted black) step plate at the bumper. It was cast integral with the mounting bracket so no center bolt was required.
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#10 |
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#11 |
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Location: Manvel, TX
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So I removed the step plates from my 29 sport coupe (built 8/29) and they indeed are NOT aluminum and the bumper mounted one is cast with the bracket... not bolted to it.
What would be the correct color to paint both of them? Gloss black to match the fenders or something else? |
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#12 |
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I think the only way to make them look new is to lightly glass bead them?
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#13 |
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If I just glass bead them they will rust.
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#14 |
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Aluminum corrodes but it does not rust. Rust refers only to iron and steel corrosion.
Aluminum is actually very prone to corrosion. However, aluminum corrosion is aluminum oxide, a very hard material that actually protects the aluminum from further corrosion. Aluminum oxide corrosion also looks a lot more like aluminum (dull gray to powdery white in color), so it isn't as easy to notice as rusted iron. When iron corrodes the color changes and it actually expands. This expanding and color change can produce large red flakes that we all know as rust. Unlike aluminum oxide, the expanding and flaking off of rust exposes new metal to further rusting. This is why it is so important to provide a barrier so rust doesn't start. While aluminium doesn't rust, it often becomes dull from corrosion, and is often encrusted with brake dust, calcium, lime, tarnish, grease, oil and hard water stains. Simply washing it off, will not work, you need something stronger and more effective to do the job. Use Flitz Aluminum Pre-Clean to remove the surface grime, corrosion and buildup followed by Flitz polish (paste or liquid) to restore a brilliant shine. Works great on fuel tanks, gas pumps, mag/alcoa wheels, diamond plate, framing, step plate, engine parts, and more. Here's a link where to get the aluminum cleaner and polish: http://www.theruststore.com/Does-Alu...ust-W26C2.aspx Fred
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Fred Carlton Life Member AACA 44 year member MAFCA Editor of The Restorer magazine, official publication of MAFCA 12 years Life Member Dallas Model A Ford Club (44 years) 23 year member & founder Lone Star Model A Ford Club Chairman 35th Model A Ford Texas Tour 1998 (state convention) Chairman 42nd Model A Ford Texas Tour 2005 (state convention) Charter Member Ford Model AA Truck Club If you aren't driving your antique car frequently, you might as well be collecting clocks!!! |
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#15 |
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Im afraid part of my original post was missed.
My sports coupe was assembled in August of 1929... BEFORE the step plates were made of aluminum. Mine are definitely NOT aluminum. I am the 3rd owner of the car and it seems to be very original so I do not think these are aftermarket step plates. So... with that info... Would the step plates be painted gloss black, like the fenders OR something else? |
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#16 |
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Beginning in mid-'29 the step plates were painted black. Beginning in September 1929, through the end of production, the plates were changed to unpainted cast aluminum secured with a carriage bolt (head painted black).
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Fred Carlton Life Member AACA 44 year member MAFCA Editor of The Restorer magazine, official publication of MAFCA 12 years Life Member Dallas Model A Ford Club (44 years) 23 year member & founder Lone Star Model A Ford Club Chairman 35th Model A Ford Texas Tour 1998 (state convention) Chairman 42nd Model A Ford Texas Tour 2005 (state convention) Charter Member Ford Model AA Truck Club If you aren't driving your antique car frequently, you might as well be collecting clocks!!! |
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#17 |
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For the aluminum ones, one might consider blasting with Walnut shell particles. it leaves a hardened and shiny surface that might be less prone to corrosion. this is used these days on many types of aluminum castings.
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#18 |
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I don't think there is any way to chemically bring aluminum step plates back to new condition?? While polishing will work it will also buff out and make shiny a part that was not polished originally.
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#19 |
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26Tguy, My late September has the iron steps like yours. If I recall the judging standards correctly, The iron steps were used for just a couple of months around the time our cars were built. If that is not right, the experts will chime in. That is the beauty of this site, eventually the correct answer will surface.
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#20 |
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A few are correct with the round CI step plates. In mid 29 the step plates were black enameled, round, cast iron. In sept 29 they changed to cast aluminum.
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