Points Gap on chevy distributor

[Dirtslinger]

Im not sure on the gap for a chevy distributor for my 8ba, does it stay the same as the ford distributor? Also, how do I get the cap on? It has the 2 hooks but I can't seem to get that thing on.

[Lanny]

If you set the point gap at .018, you should be OK.

THE Chevy dist cap has two spring loaded screws.
Push down on the screws with a phillips screw driver
and turn screws in about a quarter turn...





.

[Dirtslinger]

Thank you Lanny, I did manage to get the cap on....Im learning haha.

[PeteVS]

That Chevy distributor has the possibility to set the dwell with the engine running. That is if you have a dwell meter. Set the dwell and THEN set the timing
I have a couple of those distributors and I've found that if you leave them for any appreciable time, the contacts oxidize and I get no spark. I've converted a couple to transistorized. Seems that the off shore repros are no where near what the OEMs were.

[Dirtslinger]

Mine has been sitting for almost a year, just now getting ready to put her in. I just checked the gap and its at .014. I do have a dwell meter, Im guessing dwell should be at 28 degrees? You mentioned timing, I was trying to do that the other day, the only mark on my pulley is a dot, what's the best way to set timing?

[tubman]

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Is there a pointer in the timing cover? There should be and you use it in conjunction with the dot on the pulley to time the engine. On a stock engine, they should line up when the timing light flashes. The vacuum advance (if any) should be disconnected and plugged. (I usually use a vacuum gauge to set the timing; advance the timing until the vacuum is at a maximum at idle, then back it off just a bit.)

If the pointer is missing, you can make one from a proper-sized bolt. Be careful when inserting it, as some timing covers have two holes, one for cars (marked 8BA) and one for trucks (marked 8RT).

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

I have a couple of those distributors and I've found that if you leave them for any appreciable time, the contacts oxidize and I get no spark. I've converted a couple to transistorized.

I agree ^. After fighting bad points and condensers, I put a pertronix ignitor III in mine. I read of the bolt-on ring loosing magnets in the other Pertronix units and the ignitor III is lobe sensing. The engine ran so much better than with even new points. It is a little spendy, but so are points and condensers these days.

[V8 Bob]

The target dwell for an 8BA is 27 degrees, while the Chevy dwell is 30. Set the dwell first before adjusting the initial timing, as dwell/point gap directly affects timing.

[Gene1949]

20220118_130154.jpg

I took the next step and installed a Chrysler [type] magnetic pickup and reluctor. Installing the pickup onto the vac advance plate was super easy. Figuring out the rotor/reluctor phasing was the hard part.
I looked at the "all in one" products being sold and rejected the PerTronix/Stromberg types because they are proprietary.

In the photo I used the heat sink and coil off a late 90s chev V-6. The brain is a mid 70s HEI. Bulletproof and parts readily available at the local NAPA. Been running this setup for about 20 years and about 20,000 miles. Plugs look brand new; I think due to the high voltage/low amperage spark from the "e-coil" and variable dwell provided by the HEI brain.

Mechanical advance; 6 ° initial for a total of 22 ° at 2300RPMs
Vacuum advance; (manifold) 1 ° @ 6" 10 ° @ 10" [crankshaft]

[Dirtslinger]

That's a nice setup Gene, wish you were out here in Socal. For now Im going to run it with what I've got. Doing exhaust work today.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

Attachment 566265

I took the next step and installed a Chrysler [type] magnetic pickup and reluctor. Installing the pickup onto the vac advance plate was super easy. Figuring out the rotor/reluctor phasing was the hard part.
I looked at the "all in one" products being sold and rejected the PerTronix/Stromberg types because they are proprietary.

In the photo I used the heat sink and coil off a late 90s chev V-6. The brain is a mid 70s HEI. Bulletproof and parts readily available at the local NAPA. Been running this setup for about 20 years and about 20,000 miles. Plugs look brand new; I think due to the high voltage/low amperage spark from the "e-coil" and variable dwell provided by the HEI brain.

Mechanical advance; 6 ° initial for a total of 22 ° at 2300RPMs
Vacuum advance; (manifold) 1 ° @ 6" 10 ° @ 10" [crankshaft]