Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

Im not sure on the gap for a chevy distributor for my 8ba, does it stay the same as the ford distributor? Also, how do I get the cap on? It has the 2 hooks but I can't seem to get that thing on.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

If you set the point gap at .018, you should be OK.

THE Chevy dist cap has two spring loaded screws.
Push down on the screws with a phillips screw driver
and turn screws in about a quarter turn...





.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

Thank you Lanny, I did manage to get the cap on....Im learning haha.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

That Chevy distributor has the possibility to set the dwell with the engine running. That is if you have a dwell meter. Set the dwell and THEN set the timing
I have a couple of those distributors and I've found that if you leave them for any appreciable time, the contacts oxidize and I get no spark. I've converted a couple to transistorized. Seems that the off shore repros are no where near what the OEMs were.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

Mine has been sitting for almost a year, just now getting ready to put her in. I just checked the gap and its at .014. I do have a dwell meter, Im guessing dwell should be at 28 degrees? You mentioned timing, I was trying to do that the other day, the only mark on my pulley is a dot, what's the best way to set timing?

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

Is there a pointer in the timing cover? There should be and you use it in conjunction with the dot on the pulley to time the engine. On a stock engine, they should line up when the timing light flashes. The vacuum advance (if any) should be disconnected and plugged. (I usually use a vacuum gauge to set the timing; advance the timing until the vacuum is at a maximum at idle, then back it off just a bit.)

If the pointer is missing, you can make one from a proper-sized bolt. Be careful when inserting it, as some timing covers have two holes, one for cars (marked 8BA) and one for trucks (marked 8RT).

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

I agree ^. After fighting bad points and condensers, I put a pertronix ignitor III in mine. I read of the bolt-on ring loosing magnets in the other Pertronix units and the ignitor III is lobe sensing. The engine ran so much better than with even new points. It is a little spendy, but so are points and condensers these days.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

The target dwell for an 8BA is 27 degrees, while the Chevy dwell is 30. Set the dwell first before adjusting the initial timing, as dwell/point gap directly affects timing.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

Attachment 566265

I took the next step and installed a Chrysler [type] magnetic pickup and reluctor. Installing the pickup onto the vac advance plate was super easy. Figuring out the rotor/reluctor phasing was the hard part.
I looked at the "all in one" products being sold and rejected the PerTronix/Stromberg types because they are proprietary.

In the photo I used the heat sink and coil off a late 90s chev V-6. The brain is a mid 70s HEI. Bulletproof and parts readily available at the local NAPA. Been running this setup for about 20 years and about 20,000 miles. Plugs look brand new; I think due to the high voltage/low amperage spark from the "e-coil" and variable dwell provided by the HEI brain.

Mechanical advance; 6 ° initial for a total of 22 ° at 2300RPMs
Vacuum advance; (manifold) 1 ° @ 6" 10 ° @ 10" [crankshaft]

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor
 

That's a nice setup Gene, wish you were out here in Socal. For now Im going to run it with what I've got. Doing exhaust work today.

Re: Points Gap on chevy distributor