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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2025
Posts: 3
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Question: To what pressure must heads bolts be torqued down to (Model A)? Thank you!
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,715
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55 ft-lbs
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Welcome to the Barn. Please tell us a little about your car and where you live.
The recommended torque for the head nuts is 55 foot-pounds. Bring the torque up in 10 foot-pound steps from 25 foot pounds. Start the engine and let it run for 15 minutes. Let the car cool down and re torque. Then run 100 miles and re torque once the car cools down. Re torque after 500 miles. Always torque on a cold engine.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
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And don't forget to "pattern" torque according to some "force distributive" path.
Somewhere online is a "torque pattern" commonly used. You can't start at one end and work your way to the other end - rather "alternate your torqued bolts." I see Vince Falter's "Ford Garage" site is back up and functional. He has a good page on this https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/tighteningsequence.htm Joe K
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
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Copied from my (well used) Red Book. This (front to the right) is an end-for-end rotation of the one in Vince Falter's photo (front to the left).
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#6 |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,647
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![]() Quote:
I actually have the Genuine Snap-on 11/16" Obstruction Wrench for the Model A Head Nut under the distributor.. ![]() Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 03-17-2025 at 02:39 PM. |
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#8 |
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The nuts are 11/16". I use a 3/8" drive click-type torque wrench, a range of around 20-80 ft-lbs or so should be fine. There is one nut (nut #1) that is underneath the distributor. If you don't want to dismount the distributor to get to it each time you torque the head I'd suggest that you get one of these gizmos, along with a socket adapter to go from the 3/8" drive torque wrench (female side of the adapter) to the 1/2" drive of the gizmo (male side of the adapter).
And don't just bypass torqueing that nut because it's inconvenient to get to. That nut seals the gasket between the narrow parts of the #2 and #3 cylinder. That location (and between #3 and #4, nut #7) are the most vulnerable to head gasket blowout. They MUST be properly torqued.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
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You'll need to remove the distributor or use this tool. It sounds like you are new to all wrenching on cars - buy the tool. Or get in touch with your local A club. Someone will loan you one or help you get it done.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8661&cat=41753 |
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#10 |
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Location: SF Bay Area
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Head nuts? You sure about that?
The bolts that fasten the water return goose neck and the side timing gear cover are 5/8". Front timing gear cover bolts are 9/16".
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#11 | |
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#12 |
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#13 |
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Yeah, well you caught me a few months ago, so all is well.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#14 |
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JayJay, y'all going to CCRG in Visalia in a couple of weeks?
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#15 |
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#16 | |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
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![]() Quote:
In post #8, a 3/8" drive torque wrench was suggested. If you have to buy a torque wrench I would recommend a 1/2" drive as you might need it later for other jobs that require higher torque values.
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Mar 2025
Posts: 3
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I appreciate all the advice. I'm thinking I don't have the competency or the confidence to tackle the torquing of these headbolts. I cannot get a response from local Model A Ford Club in Wsbg VA. Seeking any available assistance in Tidewater (located in Mathews, Va) thank you.
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#19 |
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Affirmative. Flying solo, my bride backed out to spend the weekend with her three sisters in Bend, OR. Bunch from our club (Santa Clara Valley Chapter of MAFCA), I’ll PM you with details.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 507
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![]() Quote:
Also, if you don't want to buy a wrench like Jay-Jay shows above, I have a set of crow foot wrenches that can do the same thing. You can find a set of those fairly easily. |
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