![]() |
head bolt pressure Question: To what pressure must heads bolts be torqued down to (Model A)? Thank you!
|
Re: head bolt pressure 55 ft-lbs
|
Re: head bolt pressure Welcome to the Barn. Please tell us a little about your car and where you live.
The recommended torque for the head nuts is 55 foot-pounds. Bring the torque up in 10 foot-pound steps from 25 foot pounds. Start the engine and let it run for 15 minutes. Let the car cool down and re torque. Then run 100 miles and re torque once the car cools down. Re torque after 500 miles. Always torque on a cold engine. |
Re: head bolt pressure And don't forget to "pattern" torque according to some "force distributive" path.
Somewhere online is a "torque pattern" commonly used. You can't start at one end and work your way to the other end - rather "alternate your torqued bolts." I see Vince Falter's "Ford Garage" site is back up and functional. He has a good page on this https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/tighteningsequence.htm Joe K |
Re: head bolt pressure 1 Attachment(s)
Copied from my (well used) Red Book. This (front to the right) is an end-for-end rotation of the one in Vince Falter's photo (front to the left).
|
Re: head bolt pressure Follow-up question- I'm not at home, and need to buy a torque wrench- what size are Model A head bolts- thank you very much!
|
Re: head bolt pressure 1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
I actually have the Genuine Snap-on 11/16" Obstruction Wrench for the Model A Head Nut under the distributor.. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...408092fab7.jpg |
Re: head bolt pressure The nuts are 11/16". I use a 3/8" drive click-type torque wrench, a range of around 20-80 ft-lbs or so should be fine. There is one nut (nut #1) that is underneath the distributor. If you don't want to dismount the distributor to get to it each time you torque the head I'd suggest that you get one of these gizmos, along with a socket adapter to go from the 3/8" drive torque wrench (female side of the adapter) to the 1/2" drive of the gizmo (male side of the adapter).
And don't just bypass torqueing that nut because it's inconvenient to get to. That nut seals the gasket between the narrow parts of the #2 and #3 cylinder. That location (and between #3 and #4, nut #7) are the most vulnerable to head gasket blowout. They MUST be properly torqued. |
Re: head bolt pressure You'll need to remove the distributor or use this tool. It sounds like you are new to all wrenching on cars - buy the tool. Or get in touch with your local A club. Someone will loan you one or help you get it done.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8661&cat=41753 |
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
The bolts that fasten the water return goose neck and the side timing gear cover are 5/8". Front timing gear cover bolts are 9/16". |
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
|
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
|
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
|
Re: head bolt pressure JayJay, y'all going to CCRG in Visalia in a couple of weeks?
|
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
|
Re: head bolt pressure 1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...9&d=1742248438 |
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
In post #8, a 3/8" drive torque wrench was suggested. If you have to buy a torque wrench I would recommend a 1/2" drive as you might need it later for other jobs that require higher torque values. |
Re: head bolt pressure I appreciate all the advice. I'm thinking I don't have the competency or the confidence to tackle the torquing of these headbolts. I cannot get a response from local Model A Ford Club in Wsbg VA. Seeking any available assistance in Tidewater (located in Mathews, Va) thank you.
|
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
|
Re: head bolt pressure Quote:
Also, if you don't want to buy a wrench like Jay-Jay shows above, I have a set of crow foot wrenches that can do the same thing. You can find a set of those fairly easily. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:19 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.