Brand new engine won't start

[scar]

A buddy has purchased a touring engine for about
6K. I helped him install it but he finished it up himself. So, I'm not real sure what's wrong. He told me that he got it to start a couple of times in the last few weeks. He said that it will turn over and he hears a "pop" every now and then but it won't fire. He said that he has changed the coil, points, and condenser. The distributor is in time and the plugs are in good shape.
Anyone have any ideas on what to check or what might be wrong? This guy is75 and has 3 other Model A's and it has him stumped. I'm going to go try to help him tomorrow, but I'm not much on electrical problems.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

I'm guessing, that you need to start by verifying the number one cylinder is at top dead center and the timing is correct. Then you can start checking for spark and all that stuff.if this car was running before the engine was replaced then it seems like it would be something in the engine, however if it was not running then it could be the wiring is screwball and you will have to start from scratch. Another thing the check for his do you have gas in the carb are the plugs wet etc.

[Mitch//pa]

Ck for a steady good spark from the coil wire to a head nut. From not starting fuel should be dripping from the air horn.. If not it maybe a fuel issue
You changed a lot of parts but ck the basics for combustion
As Chuck said make sure your pointing at #1 on TDC

[Synchro909]

Like Chuck said, are you sure its timed on No 1, not one of the others? It's easy to verify, just make sure the rotor button is pointing to the No 1 contact in the distributor cap.
How good is he battery. If it is poor, you may be running short of volts while cranking to give a spark.
Check it through one thing at a time. You'll get it going.

[Flathead]

If you have spark, good fuel, and good compression, all at the right time, the engine has to run. I would skip the guess work and go back to square one. Set the timing pin in the cam gear notch, set the rotor position. Be sure number one piston is at TDC when the pin fits in. Check the point gap and condition. Be sure it has a good spark. Check for good fuel at the carb, be sure the plugs are clean and good. Check the compression. Verify each thing as you go, jumping around from one to another just confuses things. ASSUME NOTHING. The engine is new and should run but it doesn't, you have to logically check everything until you find the problem. Good luck and don't give up!

[Flathead]

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I guess a lot of us were typing at the same time.

[Mike V. Florida]

What procedure are you using for the timing?

Check here if your sure your timing is correct.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpo...70&postcount=8

[redmodelt]

Make sure the contacts on the points are clean. A little oil or dirt will prevent the 6 volts traveling from one to the other when closed. Just because they are new does not mean they will work right out of the box.

[scar]

Thanks everyone. Hopefully, it's going to be a simple fix but with electrical components, you never know. I set the timing correctly using a screwdriver to check when the piston came to the top and using the pin to locate exactly where tdc was. We set the distributor button to point toward No.1 cyl. and set the points gap. I'm not sure if it's getting fire. He wasn't able to check it himself. I'm not sure what the "popping" sound that he said he heard could be. He told me that the plugs were dry and in good shape. I just wonder if it could be in the key switch? He may have hooked something up wrong. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

[Charlie Stephens]

Remember that new parts are not necessarily good parts (sad but true).

Charlie Stephens

[Henry's Lady's Man]

Did he check his pop out ignition switch?

[scar]

I'm not really sure if he checked the switch or not. I will though tomorrow.
What has me puzzled is that he's got it to start two or three times in the last
month or so. You'd think it would either start every time or not at all.
I hope it's a simple ground issue or a loose wire.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by scar

Thanks everyone. Hopefully, it's going to be a simple fix but with electrical components, you never know. I set the timing correctly using a screwdriver to check when the piston came to the top and using the pin to locate exactly where tdc was. We set the distributor button to point toward No.1 cyl. and set the points gap. I'm not sure if it's getting fire. He wasn't able to check it himself. I'm not sure what the "popping" sound that he said he heard could be. He told me that the plugs were dry and in good shape. I just wonder if it could be in the key switch? He may have hooked something up wrong. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

Not quite sure what you mean by "set the distributor button to point toward No.1 cyl."



Print out the check list from my post above and go through it step by step.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by scar

I'm not really sure if he checked the switch or not. I will though tomorrow.
What has me puzzled is that he's got it to start two or three times in the last
month or so. You'd think it would either start every time or not at all.
I hope it's a simple ground issue or a loose wire.

How long did he run it each of those starts? If not for 30 minutes or longer he may have fouled the plugs. You say you have confirmed the timing is correct, so now the next simple check is to check for spark by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut. If that's OK then pull the choke for a couple turns and see if gas runs out the carb. If that's also OK, then try another set of plugs. I assume you can tell by the cranking that the engine has compression.

[Steve Wastler]

In post 10 you say the plugs are dry. With repeated cranking and not firing, they should be wet. Check for fuel issues.

[Chris Haynes]

Make sure the distributor body is grounding to the head. Paint on it and the head will not let it make contact. No contact = No fire.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by scar

Thanks everyone. Hopefully, it's going to be a simple fix but with electrical components, you never know. I set the timing correctly using a screwdriver to check when the piston came to the top and using the pin to locate exactly where tdc was. We set the distributor button to point toward No.1 cyl. and set the points gap. I'm not sure if it's getting fire. He wasn't able to check it himself. I'm not sure what the "popping" sound that he said he heard could be. He told me that the plugs were dry and in good shape. I just wonder if it could be in the key switch? He may have hooked something up wrong. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

Not quite sure what you mean here, but, the way you explained it is not the way to set the timing. However, it may be close enough to get it started.

When cranking the engine and the choke is pulling for just a couple seconds there should be fuel at the choke plate if not even dripping from it.

Take your trusty old test light and check for power where power should be. With key on there should be power at the movable point arm [ points open] and none when points are closed.

Hold the secondary coil lead [ high tension] about 1/4" from a ground. Turn engine so points are open. Turn on key. Intermittently ground movable points arm and look for the spark.

So, let us know what works and what doesn't work.

[Jacksonlll]

Here is a playlist of videos that may help. There is one on how to troubleshoot the A, and one on the basic ignition system, called Ignition 101.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...rIa0r_fFQcz4R0

[Brendan]

cam in wrong?

[J Franklin]

Did anyone try the timing pin into the cam gear method to find cyl 1 TDC on a compression stroke? I didn't see that mentioned.