The Ford Barn

yachtsmanbill · 09-07-2015, 05:37 PM

Sorry about the obfuscation. Look at the inspection cover on the oil pan. The early long snout pans had a 3 rod dip pattern with the 4th rod dip on the main oilpan itself. Made adjusting #4 rod and rear main a daunting task. The later style inspection cover had all 4 dips which helped make rod adjusting a simpler task. At 100 years old, whos to say some one didn't take a later pan and change the snout and oil dam. If the angle of the picture was a bit lower, it would be obvious.
The second comment was regarding the water passage erosion/corrosion. On the drivers side of the block where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water jacket, it appears that the paint is showing corrosion bleeding from underneath, POSSIBLY indicating a crack that is leaking. The 1926 & 27 blocks were being cast a bit thinner up there and they tended to rust through faster. Again, with 100 years of well water cooling the engine, anything is possible, up to and including a freezing crack. If in doubt, clean with a wire toothbrush and check with a flashlight and mirror, or just fill it with water. ws

09-07-2015, 05:37 PM	#11
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: 1914 Model T touring Sorry about the obfuscation. Look at the inspection cover on the oil pan. The early long snout pans had a 3 rod dip pattern with the 4th rod dip on the main oilpan itself. Made adjusting #4 rod and rear main a daunting task. The later style inspection cover had all 4 dips which helped make rod adjusting a simpler task. At 100 years old, whos to say some one didn't take a later pan and change the snout and oil dam. If the angle of the picture was a bit lower, it would be obvious. The second comment was regarding the water passage erosion/corrosion. On the drivers side of the block where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water jacket, it appears that the paint is showing corrosion bleeding from underneath, POSSIBLY indicating a crack that is leaking. The 1926 & 27 blocks were being cast a bit thinner up there and they tended to rust through faster. Again, with 100 years of well water cooling the engine, anything is possible, up to and including a freezing crack. If in doubt, clean with a wire toothbrush and check with a flashlight and mirror, or just fill it with water. ws __________________ " Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!" Last edited by yachtsmanbill; 09-07-2015 at 05:49 PM.