1914 Model T touring

[yachtsmanbill]

Sorry about the obfuscation. Look at the inspection cover on the oil pan. The early long snout pans had a 3 rod dip pattern with the 4th rod dip on the main oilpan itself. Made adjusting #4 rod and rear main a daunting task. The later style inspection cover had all 4 dips which helped make rod adjusting a simpler task. At 100 years old, whos to say some one didn't take a later pan and change the snout and oil dam. If the angle of the picture was a bit lower, it would be obvious.
The second comment was regarding the water passage erosion/corrosion. On the drivers side of the block where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water jacket, it appears that the paint is showing corrosion bleeding from underneath, POSSIBLY indicating a crack that is leaking. The 1926 & 27 blocks were being cast a bit thinner up there and they tended to rust through faster. Again, with 100 years of well water cooling the engine, anything is possible, up to and including a freezing crack. If in doubt, clean with a wire toothbrush and check with a flashlight and mirror, or just fill it with water. ws

[jesselashcraft]

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Look at the inspection cover on the oil pan. The early long snout pans had a 3 rod dip pattern with the 4th rod dip on the main oil pan itself.

Hi Bill - I took a trip under my car today and brought the camera with me. Yeah, that's what I got. Here's a better picture.

On the drivers side of the block where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water jacket, it appears that the paint is showing corrosion bleeding from underneath, POSSIBLY indicating a crack that is leaking.

Good catch. Under the lip just south of the block date stamp is a crack about 3" long. Can you make it out at the end of the putty knife? It's not noticeable looking down into the engine compartment through the open hood. You have to get under the car. I only drove the car once 40 years ago when I bought it and the previous owner started it for me a couple times but apparently, we didn't operate it long enough to get it hot enough to cause a geyser. It's been stored ever since with no coolant in it. I was just starting out in the Navy at the time of the purchase and the intent has always been a retirement project for me.

Let the buyer beware, eh? I've been pimped from another dimension!

I've talked on the phone to a shop in northern Cincinnati:

http://ronsmachineshop.net/Catalog_f...2012%20PDF.pdf

They've been repairing cracked blocks for 40 years and without seeing the wound, based on where it's located, they're upbeat about fixing it for $65 an inch with a process they call "drilling & stitching" that doesn't involve welding or soldering. Apparently, they've been mostly successful with it. Familiar with the process?

[jesselashcraft]

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

...POSSIBLY indicating a crack that is leaking.

Hey fellas -

My biggest concern, the block, is repairable. Having the "drill & stitch" method done this holiday season.

Got the radiator back from the shop. Had a new core installed. More tubes, oval tubes and a louver arrangement on the fins for more surface area. I hear the brass cars were notorious for overheating. I plan on installing engine pans on this car in another attempt at sufficient cooling.

The radiator looked a little rough when I got it back but it cleaned up well.

Fenders, splash aprons and running board are in the paint shop. There's a little rust that will have to be addressed. The wheels are cleaning up nicely.

[jesselashcraft]

Originally Posted by Royce P

The date, followed by a body maker's assembly number, is stamped into the wood seat frame where the yellow arrow points.

Finally found it. It was almost worn off and in a rough cut part of the board.
So I think this is all the numbers:

Body date/number: 1 14 70535
Transmission stub shaft date: 2 7 14
Ship number: 409023
Engine/serial number: 346779 (9/25/13)
Engine casting date: 8 11 13
Head casting date: 2 6

Are there any other numbers of interest?

Originally Posted by Royce P

The dash tag is now the part that does not work exactly right.

Tell me more about the "FORD CAR NO" on the brass plate fellas. Larry Smith was saying the engine number is normally a higher number than the ship number which leads me to believe that the motor may have been swapped out for an earlier made engine at some point. J Franklin has an interesting theory that the engine could have been taken off line for re-machining and put in a later car.

I got to tell you, I'm pretty relieved I don't have to go looking for another block.