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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbia, Misssouri
Posts: 99
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I'm in the process of buying a 1930 2-dr sedan that has a Mitchell overdrive unit installed. This is a running/driving car needing absolutely nothing. I should be paying for it and bringing it home today or tomorrow.
I've contacted Mitchell to see if I can get instructions and a maintenance manual for the Mitchell overdrive unit in the car. It's been quite a few days now with no response. Can someone on here give me pointers on this unit? I don't know how to shift it. I don't know what maintenance it needs. I'm pretty sure that there are other questions that I should be asking but just don't know what to ask. TIA b-t-w; I searched on here and found nothing about these units. That amazes me as I figured that there would be many posts about them.
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atch (Mike Atchley) Columbia, Missouri <>< |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,645
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Per Mitchell; Change the oil once per year or 5000 miles. High quality 85/140 weight petroleum based gear oil with a GL5 rating. No other maintainence needed
One feature I like is when you put the Mitchell in neutral, you can upshift or downshift your stock trans without double clutching. Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 05-28-2025 at 12:32 PM. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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They are a synchronized trans, just push in the clutch and shift like any modern car.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,430
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“ Shift on the fly “ ? I’ve wondered about that statement, I use the clutch before shifting gears ( mostly ) splitting 2-3 is what I love about the Mitchell OD ( up or down ) shifting the OD into neutral and then into low while still rolling is another plus !
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Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbia, Misssouri
Posts: 99
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Thanks folks. I get the title Friday afternoon and then the fun begins.
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atch (Mike Atchley) Columbia, Missouri <>< |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
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Last edited by ModelA29; 05-29-2025 at 01:03 PM. |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbia, Misssouri
Posts: 99
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Mine was already installed when I bought the car; I didn't buy the unit from Mitchell. Maybe they will still respond to my inquiry.
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atch (Mike Atchley) Columbia, Missouri <>< |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,860
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Mitchell is very helpful. They will answer all your questions.
My Mitchell overdrive needs topping up every few months. I am not sure were the oil goes, maybe to the rear end. Although Mitchell says to use the G5 rated gear oil, I believe the G4 rated gear oil is a better choice because of the brass components in the overdrive. Brass components can chip off with G5 because the additives are too aggressive. Make sure it is the 85W-140 grade gear oil. Do not try to baby the overdrive. Put the clutch in and shift quickly. That is better for the synchromesh components.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,645
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Dupe
Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 05-28-2025 at 07:20 PM. |
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#10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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I have found it is hard to find GL4 85W-140 Gear Oil. What is your source? |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,043
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atch, Here is a tip learned by experience. When you take the car out, don't try to engage O/D till you have done a few miles. Wait till the oil has warmed up for an easy shift. Besides, it does no harm to take it easy till the engine is warm anyway.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,645
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Excellent tip!
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Germantown,TN
Posts: 574
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Servicing the Mitchell O.D.
See note about using synthetic oils on page 3 bottom line. Last edited by GPierce; 05-28-2025 at 07:31 PM. |
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#14 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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The download above is what Mitchell sends out with their overdrives. If your overdrive is a few years back, there will not be hex plugs on the two front and rear tubes. The purpose to give access to the two spline couplers grease fitting inside the tubes.
I would not worry about it; a spline coupler does not normally need to be greased. If yours's does have the hex access, be careful to not drop the grease fittings inside the tube. Tom Endy |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,860
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Here is what RYMAX says about their G5 and G4 gear oils: https://rymax-lubricants.com/updates...-gl-4-and-gl-5.
I started using G4 in my Mitchell overdrive and synchro transmission when I found small brass colored flakes in the oil I drained out during the annual change. Your choice. But for my money I will play it safe. I buy the G4 at the local auto parts dealer. If you cannot find it there then buy it online. I use the G5 in my differential and steering box. One more thing: Modern gear oils are much improved over what was available in 1930. I have used 85W-140 G5 in the standard Model A gearbox and it shifts fine as long as I shift slowly or double clutch going up and double clutch going down.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 05-29-2025 at 06:12 AM. |
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#16 | |
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Glide, Oregon
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I did find some 140 GL-1 that claims it is best for Synchro Transmissions.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
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I’ll second (or third, or fourth…) all the above. Especially Synchro’s comment about driving a bit before shifting the O/D. Steve Mitchell explained to me that for the synchro rings to function properly they need a certain viscosity of lubricant, and (like with any multi-weight lubricant) the 85-140 needs to warm up to temperature to get to that target viscosity. He explained that the O/D works best at about 200F, and that you need to have driven a bit to have the gears mushing around (my word, not his) in the lube to get to that temperature. You should also not worry if you feel the transmission and it’s hot after you have been running it. FWIW, normal involuntary “jerk away” temperature is considered to be about 140F, so you will know the O/D is hot!
I find that my O/D is very stiff, almost prohibitively, until I’ve driven for five minutes or so. That’s at city street speeds for me. After that it’s like buttah.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Hazzard County
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Any question about fluid has been beat to death, but your other questions have not been fully addressed, so this video should help- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4un3JUgn4TU
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Glide, Oregon
Posts: 1,441
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Good video on how to use the Mitchell O/D and a nice view of the bottom of your car Paul. I see you use re-useable "cotter" pins also. I hate split pins!
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Ruth "Sometimes you really DO need to read the whole thread" |
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#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Glide, Oregon
Posts: 1,441
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