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#1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 2,617
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Can some of you very knowlegable folks give me an idea of the machine costs to drill a crank for full oil pressure to the rods? This would be using a counter-balanced crank
Then an idea of costs of machine work to do a full insert engine? Meaning the rods and the line boring, etc necessary? Also the costs of the insert bearings Thanks so much Jim |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
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you are aware of course that full pressure is not required to run inserts.
Keeping a rear main seal from leaking is quite a challenge if full pressure
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#3 |
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Yes, I'm aware.
Thanks Still looking for the info tho Last edited by Kahuna; 04-14-2016 at 07:40 PM. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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You say you will be using a counterweighted crank. A new one or weights added to an original? If it is the latter, I'd advise against drilling it. It'll break.
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#5 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sugar Land, TX
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#6 | |
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Quote:
Here is some info so you can understand some of what is necessary; https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156839 There are some prices here; https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133529
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Upstate New York
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A drilled and counterbalanced crank will run you around $900.00. The align boring for insert bearings is another $500-600 and the insert rods from AER is another $550.00. You still have to modify the plumbing in the block for pressure. And since you have gone this far, you should probably add a high compression head and a good Stipe "B" cam, modified oil pump and new pistons, valves and springs. You are not talking about a cheap rebuild!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
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Somewhere a few years back I ran across plans from the 1930's for converting an A engine for aircraft use. This included drawings for drilling the crankshaft for full pressure oiling to the rods. So back then a drilled crankshaft was considered safe enough to pull you through the sky!
However, the plans included a special bell housing with tapered bearings to handle the prop thrust and radial loads with a short shaft connecting to the crankshaft. So that heavy flywheel was left behind, safely on the ground! |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 444
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One of the correspondents to this forum who runs a Model A at Bonneville has said that the dipper big ends are good for fairly high revs.
If your car is substantially standard, why risk the crankshaft by drilling it? Our car has pressure fed mains as per Charlie Yapps article in "Secrets of Speed" But dipper big ends. With shell bearings I'm anticipating that it will be reliable despite being fairly well worked over Keith |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: New York
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My inserts were $700 extra, didnt get the full pressure because it was an additional $2,000.
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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Wensum: Does Charlie Yapp or anyone else give a maximum rpm number for dipper rods? "Conventional wisdom" is 4000 rpm, plus a few, supposedly based on a 50's SAE article but I have been unable to find it or any other documentation. Any objective information would be invaluable to all A drivers. What is your rpm limit? Not arguing, just asking.
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 444
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I'll try to track down the contribution by that member Keith |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Rocklin, CA
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You can order the SCAT crank already drilled for pressure. That gives you a new counter balanced crank with the drilling done.
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
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Thanks everyone for the info and advice
Jim |
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