Any experience with speedster friction shocks?

[brum1]

Model A vendors selling friction style shocks as a direct replacement for the hydraulic. Are these even close in ride comfort and handling to the original hydraulic type? Any feedback is appreacited

[J Franklin]

They are a 50/50 action shock where the original were 60/40. They would be a better option than tube shocks in my opinion.

[denis4x4]

These are a little different than the ones sold by Speedway and other Model A vendors. I've used the Speedway ones that bolt on in place of the stock Model Shocks and found them to be more than adequate. The secret is not to be afraid to play with the adjustments. The ones in the photo are 13 years old and I changed the friction pads once. I've used leather as well as a phenolic material for the friction pads on the type you're describing. The phenolic seems to wear better and takes adjustment better. Too many guys bolt them on without ever making adjustments and then bitch that they're no good! I've used the dog bone connecters as well as the tube type with springs and really didn't notice a lot of difference. The connectors in the photo can be adjusted for travel.

For the price, you can't beat them! You might check Speedway Motors for pricing.

[Purdy Swoft]

The friction shocks are popular for speedster s . I use them on my speedster and our roadster. They are 50/50 and can be adjusted. Don't expect them to be anywhere near as good as new Bill Stipe shocks. Friction shocks help stabilize the ride and I like mine better than the repro original style shocks that were sold in kits a few years back. I think that the friction shocks are pretty pricey at nearly five hundred dollars per set. JC Whitney sold the Ansen friction shocks in the seventies for less than thirty dollars per pair, I wish I could buy them for that price now.

[denis4x4]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...on-shocks.html


$100 a pair plus friction pads available seperately

[brum1]

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Guys, thanks for the good info

[CarlG]

My PU had the friction shocks on it when I bought it. 1500 miles since "Restoration" and 2 of them were not functioning -- had lost the friction pads. My guess is that they weren't installed or tensioned correctly, so I really couldn't comment on how well they functioned, since they didn't.

[Jim Brierley]

I have them on my speedster, and like them. Another option is shocks from the '32-'34 Fords. They bolt on with stock bolts but require different links. They are thicker and stiffer than stock A shocks and will interfere with the brake rods but work well with hyd. brakes.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by denis4x4

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...on-shocks.html


$100 a pair plus friction pads available seperately

The Speedway friction shocks are good for the front but the arms are really TOO short for the rear. The shocks in the first picture resemble my Ansen friction shocks. Ansen made a different arm for the rear shocks that were longer with an off set. The arms can be bent and used on the rear for a get by but are too short for full action. I've made friction pads by cutting them out of old used inner tubes.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by CarlG

My PU had the friction shocks on it when I bought it. 1500 miles since "Restoration" and 2 of them were not functioning -- had lost the friction pads. My guess is that they weren't installed or tensioned correctly, so I really couldn't comment on how well they functioned, since they didn't.

Do you still have them??? Do you want to trade them for some other model A parts. I can allways use another set, The friction pads are no problem for me.

[green30coupe]

I run friction shocks on the front of my coupe and like the way they perform. Recently broke the mounting ears off of one and had to weld it. Might have had it adjusted too tight. Works fine again, though.

Ed

[brum1]

Thanks guys, called Sac. Vintage Ford today to inquire who manufactured their sealed hydraulic. Also, looks like they sell a direct bolt on friction style shock with dog bone for $400/set

[TDO]

I have friction shocks on my 1930 coupe, what is the procedure for adusting them.
I know nothing about these shocks.

[Purdy Swoft]

There is a bolt in the center that holds the arm and friction pads together. There is a nut on the back side. It will take two wrenches, one wrench to hold the nut on the back while you tighten the outside bolt. Like Green coupe Ed says above, Running too tight runs the risk of breaking the mounting flange. I also had to weld one that broke on my speedster.