brake light swith

[42merc/ma]

I lost my brakes on the way to a cruise tonight. Turns out the brake light switch went bad, fluid poured out. I'm using silicone fluid. Just replaced this switch this year, of course the switch was made in China. Any recommendations as to who sells a good switch? Thank You for your help.

[Charlie Stephens]

Go to Ron Francis Wire Works, (800) 292-1940, wire-works.com and get the one they make for silicone fluid.

Charlie Stephens

[Frank The Plumber]

I use the one made for Ron Francis, I would say that I will replace it every two or three years as part of my maintenance list. They don't cost that much to play with the failure. I think he uses the same ones Harley does.

[37 Coupe]

I got almost two years out of the Harley switch that was supposed to be silicone proof. Have been using the Ron Francis switch since spring,it does not look anything like the Harley switch too me,supposedly silicone compatible and it operates at a low pressure slight touch.

[Lawson Cox]

I use the Harley brake light switch. No problems in three years I have had it in, but then I haven't driven much yet.

[flathead4rd]

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My Harley switch is at least five years in service with dot 5. No problems yet.

[42merc/ma]

Who sells the Harley switch? Thanks

[37 Coupe]

A Harley Davidson dealer would be a good place to start .

[42merc/ma]

Or where can you get a Ron Francis switch? Thanks again.

[uncle max]

Originally Posted by flathead4rd

My Harley switch is at least five years in service with dot 5. No problems yet.

Ditto that!

[Frank The Plumber]

If you have a 3 year old Francis or a 5 year old Harley switch I would suggest that this winter you do a little pre emptive strike and swap them out. Maybe Ron said his was Harley style, but I'm running Ron's switch, his box and all his other goodies, I take his word as bible on electrical systems. I also run a redundant ground system per his suggestion, no more chasing freaking lost grounds and ground shorts due to oxidation, ok rust.

[Clem Clement]

My $20 Harley Switch failed after one year.
clem

[flathead4rd]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

My $20 Harley Switch failed after one year.
clem

Well then go to plan "B". Get a mechanical switch that works off the brake pedal arm.

[deuce lover]

Speedway sells a mechanical lever switch for $6.95.Used them for last 15 yrs on 3 different cars with no problem whatsoever.Easily adapts to the Ford brake pedal system.

[Richard (EV8G)]

We always recommend retaining the original mechanical switch for 32's, 33-34's, and 35-38's when converting to hydraulic brakes. There are no new switches available for 32 or 33-34, but they are available for 35-38's. These are a "normally on" switch and has a plunger rod that is contacted by a tab on the brake pedal when the pedal comes back up, pushing the rod into the switch body and breaking the circuit. They mount on the pedal bracket itself.

The 32 switch (not readily available) mounts on the LH front of the transmission top and has a "spring linkage" to the brake pedal; in this case the pedal traveling down allows the plunger rod to go into the switch, completing the circuit, with upward pedal travel pulling on the spring link to break the circuit. These can be adapted to later (33-39) transmission tops if necessary using a kit that we offer. We also have the original-style linkage available...

The 33-34 switch (not readily available) also mounts on the pedal bracket and has a similar appearance and operation as the 35-38 switch, but the angle of the mounting flange is enough different that the 35-38 switch will not work on 33-34 without modifying the flange angle, if even possible? (Have not tried...) Probably could transplant the innerds of a new 35-38 switch into a 33-34 body???

These mechanical switches are "guaranteed not to leak... :>)" and rarely fail, and if they do fail, the brakes are not lost. Also do not have the "crack" the hydraulic system to change a defective/leaker switch...