a little troubleshooting help please

[TRUCK_RAT]

the throttle shafts are leaking on the 94 on my 40. and most of the lower gaskets are leaking. i put a speedway kit in it a while back. does somebody have a part number for napa of a better kit to prevent the seeping.
also, the car is a little hard starting but sounds good when it does kick off. after driving a while it acts like it's running out of gas then stumbles loses power and dies and wont restart for about 4 hours. ive replaced the coil, checked and regapped the points. replaced all the fuel lines installed a electric fuel pump and a phenolic spacer. the engine never gets hot and makes good power doesnt smoke so im thinking it cant be that bad whatever it is
is there anywhere locally that sells these replacement throttle shafts like charlie price and speedway. like napa or oreillys. id rather not have to wait until monday on parts. also, could this cause this problem or am i completely over my head.
i dont think im far off but im almost scared to drive the car. help me

[flatheadernie]

try condenser replace .

[TRUCK_RAT]

I did that too.

[Ralph Moore]

Is your fuel tank clean? I had the same problem in the 47, gunk in the tank, blow air back from the fuel pump(make sure gas cap is off) then try it.

[TRUCK_RAT]

Yes I Pulled the tank. Cleaned it and installed new aluminum hardline from front to back.

[Charlie ny]

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TR,
Try lowering the float a bit. Remove the air horn and float assembly
invert the air horn and set the float dimension to 1 3/8 from the top of the float to the gasket face of the air horn with the gasket REMOVED. This 1 3/8
is a little out of spec but generally works to arrest your problem. Float
level is more critical than you might think.
Be absolutely sure the needle and seat are CLEAN. What works
best for me is a steel needle....the viton tipped needles are problematic.
Charlie ny

[Joe KCMO]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

TR,
Try lowering the float a bit. Remove the air horn and float assembly
invert the air horn and set the float dimension to 1 3/8 from the top of the float to the gasket face of the air horn with the gasket REMOVED. This 1 3/8
is a little out of spec but generally works to arrest your problem. Float
level is more critical than you might think.
Be absolutely sure the needle and seat are CLEAN. What works
best for me is a steel needle....the viton tipped needles are problematic.
Charlie ny

I just finished rebuilding a model 59 and the float was set to 1 1/4". Raising the float to 1 3/8" would result in less gas in the bowl. Is that that the problem here, that the bowl is over filled? Trying to learn.

[Charlie ny]

Joe,
The actual float settings from the FORD factory manual that
I have goes from 1.322 to 1.353. From building lots of these 94's
I've found 1.375 (1 3/8) works. The difference between 1.375 and
1.353 isn't much and you can get by but I try to never exceed the
1.353. I'll drag this out a little more and say my final float/fuel level
check is made by running the carb on my test motor with 3 psi fuel
pressure then shut it down and remove the air horn and float assem-
bly. I carefully place a known good float in the bowl and measure the
fuel level from the top of the bowl to the actual fuel level....FORd specs
call for 11/16 or .687 + or - .030 actual fuel level. Probably overkill.

Charlie ny

[TRUCK_RAT]

Set it to 1 3/8. Sounds better but it's still seeping at the throttle shafts and around the lower gaskets

[46fatford]

I believe Mac's sells the replacement throttle shafts and you could also try Vintage Speed, or Sacramento Vintage Ford.Both Mac's and Sacramento Vintage Ford have a large assortment of parts for the 94's.
Matt

[Charlie ny]

TR,
When they leak like that it's usually due to an internal leak most times
caused by incorrect float setting or a vacuum leak which allows the power
valve to not be 'pulled' shut which in turn allows uncontrolled fuel into the action.
A quick way to determine if you have a PV situation at hand is to slowly close
each idle mixture screw until the motor stumbles. When it stumbles back that screw
out 1/2 turn and the motor should smooth out. Now try the other mixture screw. If the motor keeps on idling with one
or both screws closed that is your signal that the carb is leaking internally.
To be continued.
Charlie ny

[Mart]

It sounds like the carb is way over rich. The leaking is a symptom not the cause. A cold engine will start on an over rich mixture (like giving it choke)n a hot engine will be hard to start when over rich.

I had a similar problem on my car at various times, due to different causes. Here's the culprit in each case.

1, Carb flooding due to ineffective needle valves in the float valve. Fitted old steel tipped valves instead of the disc type valve assemblies that came with the kit and solved that problem.

2, Carb flooding due to a punctured float. This left me stranded in the fire up lane at the drags. Remove the float and give it a shake. If you can hear fuel sloshing about, or it feels heavy, it is full of fuel. They are hard to repair so just try and find a useable replacement.

Float height can effect things but not normally to the extent that you describe. The two things above will give the exact problems you describe.

Oh yeah, you'll save a fortune on fuel too.

Mart.

[columbiA]

A leaking PV or its gasket will let fuel drain from bowl into engine & out TS ends & make engine hard to start until carb fills up again.

[ken ct]

Im not going to get into this one as Charlie,ny and i disagree on float settings. LOL ken ct. The disc type inlets are garbage in my opinion. Also get rid of the rubber accelerator pump if you have one.

[Charlie ny]

Ken,
I would appreciate your input and I'm sure Truck Rat would too.
Charlie ny

[ken ct]

Well i set float @1 7/16 and have had no fuel starvation problems,OMO. get rid of the rubber accel. pump and rubber tip inlet needle and use a 5.5 power valve with the correct gasket. and i use .049 main jets.. This all applies to a single carb stock set up. Not for a 2x2 . ken ct OMO on all but i have good luck with these changes.

[TRUCK_RAT]

okay im thinking of trying this carb kit but i cant tell if it's got the rubber tipped needle or not. i think it's got the leather accel pump(same pinkish red color anyways)
where do you guys get your kit from.
http://macsautoparts.com/campaign_pr...2179&camid=F30

[Charlie ny]

Truck Rat,
I'm pretty sure Ken will agree that this is a rebuild kit NOT TO BUY.
Daytona Parts is a good source ask for Gina or Ron.....386 427 7108.
The sophisticated part about the 94 carb is the vacuum operated
power valve.....be sure there is no vac leak between the iron base and the bottom
of the bowl.....mucho importanto.
Charlie ny

[TRUCK_RAT]

okay. ive done a little more looking and ive discovered that the power valve is not leaking in fact it doesnt appear that it has ever touched any gas it's completely clean. also, i fired up the electric pump and let it fill the bowl and then a few seconds later gas started dripping out of the nozzle bars. so.......... what now. i feel like im close to some answers

[Mart]

Did you pull the float and see if it is full of fuel?

What happens if you leave the top off the carb and hand fill the chamber to about 3/4"* down from the top? Does it leak then?

*Anybody know the proper working fuel level?

Did you look at the needle valve and see if it a disc type?

Did you take out an old steel tipped needle when you rebuilt the carb? Still got it?

Do you have any old crusty carbs under the bench that may yield up usable parts? Needle valve and float?

Got another carb on another car that works ok?

Got any Ford guys nearby that may be able to lend you some parts for troubleshooting?

Did you read my previous post?

Mart.

EDIT:
Do you have a clue what fuel pressure the pump is delivering?

Are you using a fuel pressure regulator? If yes, is it a cheap ass chrome good for nothing one?