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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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I'm keeping the juice brakes on my 30 T.S. The old lines were corroded copper and steel. I had some 1/4" X .020 316 Stainless steel tubing from an old job I used to work at. I can put a double flare on it. Can anyone think of a reason why this material should not be used for brake lines?
T.I.A. Terry |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Eastern, CT
Posts: 527
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I don't know of a reason you should or shouldn't use it, but it might be hard. My buddy did ss brake lines on his Toyota pickup and I remember it being pretty hard to flare.
Red |
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#3 |
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I thought that the Stainless, being harder than regular steel had to have a single 37 degree flare due to cracking, while regular steel lines used a double flare 45 degree?
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca.
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Terry,
.020" is a little thin, .030-.032" would be a better choice. The drum brakes don't have the working pressure like disc brakes, BUT. I would switch to JIC (aircraft, 37 degree), single flair, with " B nut & sleeve " |
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kalamazoo
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Dennis Cling sells preformed stainless brake lines as well as some other quality stuff. Maybe if you phoned him up he would tell you whether what you're planning to do would be up to his standards--assuming it were done properly.
My A came with copper lines, which failed me totally a few times--a life altering experience. When I finally restored my car, 25 years later, I was happy to have Dennis' product available. What better to spend your money on? Steve Last edited by steve s; 07-18-2011 at 09:40 PM. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Montgomery,Texas
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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I am using stainless steel brake lines on my 37 coupe,I had them made up 10 years ago for a 39 Ford project that stalled. I really wasn't looking to use stainless at the time I just thought it was neat and very convenient that the outfit who supplied Classic Tube in Lancaster NY had a program to exact bend and form and flare to all correct lengths. When I got the quote it was around $125.. regular steel and another $25.00 for stainless, not V8 Club approved but common sense to me. When I decided to convert my 37 to hydraulic brakes I used evrything from the 39. Friend of mine just bought same 39 lines for his 36 conversion and price was only abou $10-$15 more than 10 years ago. To me it was worth it just to have them do the forming and flaring and even stainless spring guards.
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: SW WI
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I also would check on using that thickness stainless. Steel, SS is fine for brakes, copper is not. There's a material that's been out for several years now for making brake lines that looks a bit like copper but is not, doesn't corrode and is easily flared. Brakes are something you don't want to second guess on. No one is fast enough to make repairs while having that "life altering experience".
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Deer Park, Texas
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Personally just because you have the SS doesn't mean it is the best choice for brake lines. You could buy pre-flaired lines from the local parts store in various lengths for not a lot of money.
I have always been fascinated by the copper alloy that these guys sell: http://www.fedhillusa.com/ |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Eastern, CT
Posts: 527
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I used the copper alloy stuff for my 350. It was very easy to flare and bend. Almost too easy actually, but I don't have to worry about them rusting.
Red |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,423
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Mike is right on. You can't double flare the stainless tubing used for brake lines. It will crack. It's .032 wall. Single flare it 37 deg.with the JIC nut and sleeve. Works fine.
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks Co, Pa
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Pete, That was my first question too. Can you put a double flare on stainless steel? Since my double flare tool is broken and I wasn't exactly experienced with double flaring, I took it to a local guy and let him try it. He was able to do it beautifully! My tubing is 1/4 X .020 seamless.
Terry |
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