Stainless washers under head bolts OK?

[Jack 34pu]

I'm nearly ready to assemble the 49-50 Merc motor and wondered if placing stainless washers under each head bolt would be a problem? I'm pretty sure there were no washers used on the 49-53 heads originally but would like to dress it up a bit.

Also, what sealer is popular on the threads of head bolts these days?

Thanks

Jack 34pu

[FL&WVMIKE]

Jack 34pu .................
I can't see where it would hurt a thing. After all, the aluminum heads require washers.
MIKE

[Krylon32]

I like to use a thicker hardened machine washer under the head bolts or nuts on studs. The standard SS washers are a little thin and will distort under torque. I use a sealer from Locktite and rarely get a leak. Lots of opinions here, this is just mine.

[JWL]

The more important feature of the washer, rather than type of material, is that is have good surface hardness to allow the nut to glide over the surface without "digging in". I use Permatex, Formagasket #2 in the tube on the threads.

[JM 35 Sedan]

If you use aluminum heads I would suggest not using any type of stainless steel hardware due to the corrosion factor. Also, if you use aluminum heads you should use hardened steel washers to help distribute the load under the head of the bolts or under the nuts if studs are used. Soft steel washers will bevel under load if used on aluminum heads.

[Jack 34pu]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks for responses. The heads are painted cast iron. I thought the SS washers would give a paintless surface to tighten against.

[f1builder]

there was a good thread here or on the hamb about using chamfered washers with 0 rings on stud and bolt installations but i can't find it now. i plan on doing this on my 41 engine if i can get the right info. anyone recall this?

[36tbird]

These are the ones I use. You have to buy a special drill bit. I used these on my 8ba with EAB heads that is currently running and will use them on aluminum heads. My thinking is that it would keep the stud or bolt centered in the hole and help prevent electrolysis. http://www.stefs.com/bandb/products/...washerstep.htm

[SSsssteamer]

JM 35 Sedan.... The whole idea in using stainless anywhere is to avoid the corrosion factor. Stainless is widely used on boats which are used on salt water, and the stainless fasteners are also used to hold down aluminum parts on the boats. About the best of both worlds against corrosion is aluminum and stainless. I have, however, seen in treated city water where the city's added chemicals can pit the stainless. We have Stanley steam cars and I try to use stainless fittings where ever I can because of strength, corrosion resistance and high heat capabilities. The 310S stainless I use will not oxidize until 2000F. That is real oxidation resistance. Try that with steel... Stainless is softer than the hardened steel washers, which makes the steel washers the better choice to use between the steel nuts and the heads. Hardened steel washers are always more rust resistant than soft steel washers. # 2 Permatex is the best that I have ever found to keep head bolts/studs from leaking, and still be able to remove the head later on.

[Jack 34pu]

Please read again - I'm not using aluminum heads.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Steamer, I was not referring to SS being used in most applications. What I was referring to is the specific application of using SS hardware in or against aluminum. In their basic form, aluminum and stainless steel are incompatible alloys that are susceptible to galvanic corrosion under the best of conditions. There is a bi-metallic corrosion risk especially if an electrolyte (water/coolant mix) is present. This can/will result in an electrochemical corrosion process. Also, another consideration is that threading SS hardware into aluminum can result in galling.

Jack, I know you are using cast iron heads and SS washers are probably ok where you want to use them unless you have the problem that JWL mentioned.

[296 V8]

I would think the only thing to worry about is maintaining consistent torque ….. easily checked by puttin the wrench back to them now and then.

[oldford2]

Permatex high performance thread sealant. Follow the directions which are to use sparingly and only on 2 or 3 thread turns. PX #56521 Recommended by Roy N so must be the right stuff. John

[wga]

For stock CI heads, use quality grade 8 bolts, there is a supplier on this forum that sells them with the correct length. Check the holes in head for any burrs that could affect torque readings. Use the Permatex stuff on the threads, torque to spec. Run it and retorque, might want to do this one more time to check consistent readings.
I like the Best Gasket head gaskets http://bestgasket.com/

[Byron Warwick]

Jack: You may have seen this picture before. This is a 1954 Meteor engine. I bought the washers and studs from Motor City Flathead in Dundee MI, along with all the other internals for the rebuild. PS the gas filter has been moved to under the frame. Byron.

[Jack 34pu]

Hey Byran,

Haven't seen you for a while. I will probably be asked to stop posting for awhile! I'm in the middle of building an AV8 pu and putting the motor together myself. Been asking lots of questions lately and the Barn guys have been sharing all their techniques with me. I'm 69 and still learning although I use the Barn for assurance in many cases hoping someone else will gain from my questions.

Yes, I have the same filter on my 34pu. Must remove before disaster strikes!

Thanks for your input.

Jack 34pu

[Tim Brown]

Stainless washers under head bolts OK?

I put 40K miles on a 59A motor with stainless washers and stock heads. I try to re-torque the heads every 6 months or so. Go for it, you wont have any problems. Its amazing all the unrelated answers you get to a very specific question on here....