Can I put on new head nuts without creating future head gasket leaks??

[JD4430]

I recently repainted my motor and now I would like to replace the engine head nuts with a new set of cadmium plated nuts I just bought. Currently I don't have any head gasket leakage and I don't want to create any future gasket leaks by disturbing the head nuts that are in place now. Is there a proper way to do this or am I just asking for trouble?

[johnbuckley]

Hmm, you're possibly OK to go ahead...but even one nut at a time it's a gamble and I'm a great believer in "If it ain't broke don't fix it." .

[BButturff]

For me, it would depend on what I knew about the type of head gasket that was last used, how it was installed and how true the block and head surfaces are. If I didn't know the history I would lower the coolant level, go 1 nut at a time and have another head gasket on hand (Best 509G) and some copper coat spray so I'm able to replace it. Otherwise, I wouldn't take the risk either. I have had a head gasket that I didn't think was leaking but when the head was removed there was evidence of an internal leak. You might be opening up a can of worms and have no plans to go fishing.

[katy]

Why not get a set of the chrome plated or stainless steel "acorn" nut covers?

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by katy

Why not get a set of the chrome plated or stainless steel "acorn" nut covers?

I was just going to suggest the same thing.

[MJRodge]

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One at a time shouldn’t cause any problems. Do it in the torque order. Do it when engine is cold.
-Mike

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by JD4430

I recently repainted my motor and now I would like to replace the engine head nuts with a new set of cadmium plated nuts I just bought. Currently I don't have any head gasket leakage and I don't want to create any future gasket leaks by disturbing the head nuts that are in place now. Is there a proper way to do this or am I just asking for trouble?

I would at least drain the cooling system completely before proceeding.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by katy

Why not get a set of the chrome plated or stainless steel "acorn" nut covers?

Originally Posted by P.S.

I was just going to suggest the same thing.

I third that motion...

[WHN]

Originally Posted by MJRodge

One at a time shouldn’t cause any problems. Do it in the torque order. Do it when engine is cold.
-Mike

I have done this way without any problems.

Enjoy

[Synchro909]

Before the return drive from a National Model A rally a few years ago, one guy checked his head nut tension and found two studs were pulling out of the block. I told him to stop immediately and drive home. Fix it then. If he could DRIVE 1,150 miles home with TWO loose head nuts, I see no reason why you can't change them one at a time as has been suggested above. Once you had done that, I would go through the heat and cool tensioning process again at least once.

[JD4430]

Thankyou to everyone who responded to my question. I decided not to take any chances and so I am going to get the chrome acorn head nut covers. Thankyou all again. It is appreciated.

[old ugly]

do one at a time and don't drain the coolant. that way the head stays torqued.

[Bob Bidonde]

Here is my recommendation:
*drain at least one gallon of coolant out of the engine, so the coolant level in the engine is below the cylinder head;
*Loosen the cylinder head nuts in the same sequence used to torque them;
*Replace all of the nuts;
*Torque the nuts in the sequence shown in the chart;
*Replenish the coolant in the engine.
I also recommend you modify the ignition cable clamp before replenishing the coolant.

[Bob Bidonde]

Here is my recommendation:
*drain at least one gallon of coolant out of the engine, so the coolant level in the engine is below the cylinder head;
*Loosen the cylinder head nuts in the same sequence used to torque them;
*Replace all of the nuts;
*Torque the nuts in the sequence shown in the chart;
*Replenish the coolant in the engine.