59A flathead timing

[quickchangeV8]

Hi all. I have a 59A flathead engine in a 1929 coupe 276 cu in Eddie Meyer intake with dual Stromberg 97's Sharp heads and using an Isky 400 Jr cam. Using the front mounted distributer with Pertronix conversion. I suspect the timing is off somewhat. The car runs OK but if the car sits for a while there is a slight backfiring out the exhaust until the engine warms up and there is a gasoline smell as well inside the cab. Which way do you turn the distributer to get rid of the backfiring and by how much? If you are standing in front of the car which way does the distributer get tuned? Thanks.

[JayChicago]

If runs ok after warm-up, and problem is more noticed after has sat a while, I doubt timing is the issue. More likely too rich, too much choke. Suggest you try opening the choke some immediately after engine fires, then continue opening as it warms up to keep it as lean as the engine will tolerate.

[elwood]

I never run a choke on any of my flatheads, and like Jay says, its probably loading up, if you have two carbs on it you may need to back down each main jet one size, may not.
But to answer your question, turning the distributor plate counter clock wise is retarding it.

[Flathead Fever]

This won't help you since the head is on the engine but if you ever have it off make timing marks. I set mine up when I had the #1 head off. I set the piston on TDC with a dial indicator on the piston. Rotate it one direction until the piston is on TDC of #1 and mark the pulley, then rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the piston comes up again and make a mark. The correct TDC will be right in between of the two marks. I made a pointer out of a stainless bolt ground to a point that I bolted to the timing cover. I marked the pulley right there at TDC. Then I took the diameter of the pulley and divided up in degrees and marked it at 6 BTC, 9 BTC and 12 BTC... ( I think). Now here's the really important part, write those timing marks down so if you have a stroke like I did, you can remember what the timing marks were. I swore I wrote them down, I just need to remember where I put my notes.

Even if you just have the one factory mark on the pulley like a '49-'53 flathead has, you can figure out your timing using an "adjustable timing light". Do not buy a timing light unless it is adjustable. The one I have from when I was kid is not adjustable. I found a brand-new never used adjustable timing light at an estate sale.

K.R. Wilson made a box used for timing pre-1949 distributers. You removed the distributer and bolted it to the box and then move the timing on the distributor to either make the light go on or off. That's the way flathead timing was made until 1949 when the new distributor was used. The 1949 and later pulley only has one timing mark on it, but you could adjust custom timing settings on them with an adjustable timing light.

I'm not sure if the old K.R. Wilson box will even work with electronic ignition. Since there are no points opening and closing to break the circuit and make the light come on.

Your engine should not be loading up because you have two carbs on it. You just need to balance the idle mixture settings on the carbs.

[Tim Ayers]

I also run a Petronix unit in a crab distributor. Without timing marks, this is what was taught to me is spark knock sounds like a dull thud coming from the back of the motor. From a rolling start in first, shift into second and floor it listening for the knock. If you hear it, the timing is off. There is a metal tab with marks and a hold down screw on the side of the distributor.

If you have a crab distributor, it is fixed to the timing cover. The tab on the side is what adjusts it. I forget which way advances or retards the spark. Someone will hopefully chime in with which way is which.

Make a series of adjustments doing the same thing with the engine. When the knock goes away, you are within time. Finite adjustments can be made from there.

That said, like others mentioned, you also need to know what jets and power valve sizes you are running. If known, report back with what you've got.

[Ken/Alabama]

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Sounds kinda like sticky exhaust valves.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

Sounds kinda like sticky exhaust valves.

Yes, it certainly could be that as well. I guess the question is, did it do this from the start or did it just start happening?

[JayChicago]

Would sticky exhaust valves give these symptoms? :
"The car runs OK but if the car sits for a while there is a slight backfiring out the exhaust until the engine warms up and there is a gasoline smell as well inside the cab."

[quickchangeV8]

Running no choke. Strombergs have # 41 jets and the stock power valves. Carbs were set up by Charlie NY and were installed. with no changes to them. The car runs fine when warmed up and have gone to many shows. I put in Marvel Mystery Oil every other fill up to keep everything running smoothly. Engine runs at a constant 190 degrees when driving. Can't seem to figure out this gasoline smell in the cab and the backfiring at times.

[glennpm]

On the crab disy, the center position on the adjustment plate is 4° advanced, the standard position.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...hlight=advance



Techno in my signature has more timing setting info.

Glenn