The Ford Barn

1930artdeco · 05-14-2025, 01:27 PM

OK,

So I am working the floor pans on my 57 wagon. Well, I have a problem-well at least I see it as one. If you look at the 'A' brace height and the height of the tunnel there is at least a 1/4" difference with the brace being higher. If I go to install the floor pan, it will sit about that much higher off of the toe board. I know it will as this happened on the diver side.

How do I fix this? Do I adjust the brace downward? Or do I lift the body on the pass. side and hope things realign? Or am I totally screwed and have to replace the A brace? Or lift the tunnel up and realign the body?

Thanks,

Mike

KULTULZ · 05-14-2025, 03:47 PM

You are doing this with the body on the frame?

Have you leveled the frame (off the floor) and made sure all body mount positions (incl insulators) are in good condition? The frame is square?

1930artdeco · 05-14-2025, 05:24 PM

Yes the body is on the frame and all of the body bolts are new with new insulators. I hope to god the frame is square as I cannot see any major damage to it. I will have to take measurements at different points to see. I know she was hit at some point in the rt front and the rear. The right front fender is a replacement and the rear bumper is a little higher than it should be as the tailgate hits it when it is lowered. But again, I did not see any frame warpage.

What is the best way to check if it is square? I have enough of the floor pans removed that I don't really want to jack the car up for fear of warping the body. I can measure left to right but not sure I can measure diagonally.

1930artdeco · 05-14-2025, 08:13 PM

Here are two pics of the brace on edge and the tow board.

KULTULZ · 05-15-2025, 04:57 AM

In your WSM there should be a diagram of FRAME/BODY MEASUREMENTS. You would use a tram bar, tape or string taking measurements to make sure it is hopefully square (in lieu Fr. of a frame machine or alignment rack).

Putting the car on stands and trying to level (shim stock under stands) will help to ensure the replacement panels go in true (depending of condition of complete floor pan(s).

READ HERE - https://www.camaros.net/threads/basi...easure.298434/

Ford blue blood · 05-15-2025, 07:47 AM

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I'm having a bit of a problem visualizing your problem. If I'm reading correctly you are worried about the elevation change from tunnel to rocker? The floor pans run "down hill" from the tunnel to the rocker. the seat frame pic shows the inner seat mount flat on the pan. The outer seat frame mount is off the floor by the amount shown in the second picture. Hope this helps.

1930artdeco · 05-15-2025, 08:50 AM

FBB, sort of. If you look at the pics you, you are looking at the edge of the front body brace and the edge of the tunnel. The brace is higher than the tunnel so that I cannot weld in new pans without there being about 1/4" height difference. It should be the other way around with the tunnel being higher than the brace. It has nothing to do with the seat riser, just the floor pan.

Now is it possible that Ford put the body together incorrectly at the factory-yes. But either way I am still stuck. I will see about getting/making one of those tram gauges and verify squareness. Fortunately, everything still seems to bolt up correctly with no bolts being off center or having to enlarge holes. So I am thinking that everything is normal-squareness wise.

Wondering if I can build a cradle to raise the tunnel just enough to get it back to level? Drop the driveshaft and jack up the center just enough and bam-she will be back level and then weld in the new pans.

Thanks,

Mike

1930artdeco · 05-15-2025, 01:06 PM

Just thought of this. This car was really beat up by the PO. They 4x4'ed in it, fried a bearing to the LF spindle and used tow hooks to either lift the car out of a ditch/pull it as the body is torn by the front body mounts on both sides. If they did this with worn out rubber body mounts that would explain both being bent upwards the same amount.

So, I am thinking about cutting the braces vertically and pushing them back into alignment and rewelding them. Then I can continue with the pans.

1930artdeco · 05-16-2025, 10:33 AM

After looking at it last night I decided to shape the floor pan correctly and then install it, place alot of weight on it so that it levels out with the tunnel and toe board, weld it in and then remove the weight. I think that Ford installed it this way for some reason.

05-14-2025, 01:27 PM	#1
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,777	57 tunnel/body sag? OK, So I am working the floor pans on my 57 wagon. Well, I have a problem-well at least I see it as one. If you look at the 'A' brace height and the height of the tunnel there is at least a 1/4" difference with the brace being higher. If I go to install the floor pan, it will sit about that much higher off of the toe board. I know it will as this happened on the diver side. How do I fix this? Do I adjust the brace downward? Or do I lift the body on the pass. side and hope things realign? Or am I totally screwed and have to replace the A brace? Or lift the tunnel up and realign the body? Thanks, Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

05-14-2025, 03:47 PM	#2
KULTULZ Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IN A GALAXIE FAR, FAR AWAY Posts: 7,386	Re: 57 tunnel/body sag? You are doing this with the body on the frame? Have you leveled the frame (off the floor) and made sure all body mount positions (incl insulators) are in good condition? The frame is square? __________________ ***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling)

05-14-2025, 05:24 PM	#3
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,777	Re: 57 tunnel/body sag? Yes the body is on the frame and all of the body bolts are new with new insulators. I hope to god the frame is square as I cannot see any major damage to it. I will have to take measurements at different points to see. I know she was hit at some point in the rt front and the rear. The right front fender is a replacement and the rear bumper is a little higher than it should be as the tailgate hits it when it is lowered. But again, I did not see any frame warpage. What is the best way to check if it is square? I have enough of the floor pans removed that I don't really want to jack the car up for fear of warping the body. I can measure left to right but not sure I can measure diagonally. __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

05-15-2025, 04:57 AM	#5
KULTULZ Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IN A GALAXIE FAR, FAR AWAY Posts: 7,386	Re: 57 tunnel/body sag? In your WSM there should be a diagram of FRAME/BODY MEASUREMENTS. You would use a tram bar, tape or string taking measurements to make sure it is hopefully square (in lieu Fr. of a frame machine or alignment rack). Putting the car on stands and trying to level (shim stock under stands) will help to ensure the replacement panels go in true (depending of condition of complete floor pan(s). READ HERE - https://www.camaros.net/threads/basi...easure.298434/ __________________ ***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling)

05-15-2025, 08:50 AM	#7
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,777	Re: 57 tunnel/body sag? FBB, sort of. If you look at the pics you, you are looking at the edge of the front body brace and the edge of the tunnel. The brace is higher than the tunnel so that I cannot weld in new pans without there being about 1/4" height difference. It should be the other way around with the tunnel being higher than the brace. It has nothing to do with the seat riser, just the floor pan. Now is it possible that Ford put the body together incorrectly at the factory-yes. But either way I am still stuck. I will see about getting/making one of those tram gauges and verify squareness. Fortunately, everything still seems to bolt up correctly with no bolts being off center or having to enlarge holes. So I am thinking that everything is normal-squareness wise. Wondering if I can build a cradle to raise the tunnel just enough to get it back to level? Drop the driveshaft and jack up the center just enough and bam-she will be back level and then weld in the new pans. Thanks, Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

05-15-2025, 01:06 PM	#8
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,777	Re: 57 tunnel/body sag? Just thought of this. This car was really beat up by the PO. They 4x4'ed in it, fried a bearing to the LF spindle and used tow hooks to either lift the car out of a ditch/pull it as the body is torn by the front body mounts on both sides. If they did this with worn out rubber body mounts that would explain both being bent upwards the same amount. So, I am thinking about cutting the braces vertically and pushing them back into alignment and rewelding them. Then I can continue with the pans. __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

05-16-2025, 10:33 AM	#9
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,777	Re: 57 tunnel/body sag? After looking at it last night I decided to shape the floor pan correctly and then install it, place alot of weight on it so that it levels out with the tunnel and toe board, weld it in and then remove the weight. I think that Ford installed it this way for some reason. __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan