Let’s Talk about Turn Signals (Again)

[shew01]

I searched this website for information on this topic which comes up over and over again, but many of the links to information are broken. So, please bear with me as I dig up this topic again. Turn signals are not my strong suit; so, I’d like to keep this simple, at least for now.

I’m in the process of adding this turn signal to my 1931 Fordor.



I only have one tail light at the moment, and I’m using what appear to be 3 CP cowl lights for the front signals. I’m installing this LED light bar for my rear signals.



For now, I’m just trying to get this configuration to work reliably. I’d like to add a second tail light later, but that will be a separate project.

The problem is that I don’t have enough load on the individual turn signal circuits for the flasher to flash correctly. When I turn on the emergency flasher feature, I have enough load, and all 4 bulbs flash correctly. However, the individual turn signals don’t have enough load to flash correctly—they just burn dimly. If I temporarily add a 6v bulb (that I have in my junk box) “in line” with a rear LED turn signal light, that does generates enough load to flash properly.

I went through this a few years ago with my Victoria, and finally got around the issue (after trying a number of supposedly LED compliant flashers that didn’t work with the engine running) by using 10 CP cowl light bulbs and an NOS 535 flasher. However, the Victoria also had 2 LED tail lights in the rear circuit. So, that is not quite an apples-to-apples comparison—the single tail light on my Fordor will not be a part of this circuit, at least for now.

I’ve looked for a source of 10 CP cowl light bulbs, but I have not been able to find them. (I don’t recall where I purchased them.) Can anyone share a resource? Since my (single) tail light will not be on the turn signal circuit, this still may not resolve the issue.

I’ve also considered adding a hidden 6V bulb to each of the 2 rear LED light bar circuits to add a load. Can anyone share suggestions (and part numbers) that would work for that? I’m not fond of adding a useless bulb for load (probably painted black to avoid flashing light inside the car), but I can if I have to.

Is there a better way to get around this issue?


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[bobbader]

Hi Shew. To my knowledge, the company that supplied the 10CP bulbs closed and nobody has had them since. As per extra bulbs to add to the "load", you might think about an extra set of indicator lights inside the cab for that purpose using standard cowl/taillight bulbs. Of course, how to house them would be your next adventure, but worth thinking about. you might look into products from some of the Hot Rod wiring vendors for sockets, bezels, etc. (Ron Francis Wireworks, American Autowire, Speedway Motors.) Good Luck with your project.

[Herb Concord Ca]

You need to add load resistors, add them to the front cowl lights. one per side. connect the load resistor to the cowl light wires in the cab. The other end of the resistor to a ground screw on the firewall. A friend has only one taillight, used the bar as directions just like you. Works great once you add the load resistors.

[30Murray]

You can get the load resistors from Amazon, very inexpensive, simple to install.

[Badpuppy]

You can try this -

https://www.dennycycles.com/ba15-bul...0aAqtmEALw_wcB

The 10 CP and 10 watt bulbs are the same. (CP and watts are not interchangeable except at this value)

[ModelA29]

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Put LEDs in everything and use an LED flasher. I only use my 3rd brakelight for stop. I've got the Logo Light turn signals and it's not compatible. The Logo Lights is easy to wire and by using a single wire they're east to hide.

[Kurt in NJ]

On the left I figure is a good era turn signal switch,the middle good for the 36 ,on the right good for 40s on.
If it’s for a 12 v car there are sequencing turn signal/ parking/ brake lights that don’t need a flasher and are quite bright— from China -Amazon so it could change the availability now— the 10” long ones would fit between bumper bars.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

On the left I figure is a good era turn signal switch,the middle good for the 36 ,on the right good for 40s on.

Very cool.

[psimet]

I don’t want to add any additional wiring to my car. At this point there HAS to be a wireless rechargeable system that uses accelerometers to actuate the brake lights and a remote switch to do the turn signals.

I know there’s some stuff like this in the commuter side of my industry (bicycles) that should be adaptable. Anyone?

[Steve in Denver]

The Novtia EP34 is designed for 12 volt, but they probably make a 6V. Anyway, it does NOT depend on load, but rather it is timed so it flashes even if there is only one bulb on it.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

You can try this -

https://www.dennycycles.com/ba15-bul...0aAqtmEALw_wcB

The 10 CP and 10 watt bulbs are the same. (CP and watts are not interchangeable except at this value)

THANK YOU. These work with the flasher that came with the turn signal switch. These Denny Cycles bulbs draw a little over an amp each. From my testing, it looked like I needed at least a .8 amp draw. The stock #63 cowl light bulbs draw about .59 amp.

Thanks everyone.


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[shew01]

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[Lee Mitch]

I did what "ModelA29" did and used all LED bulbs with an LED flasher and haven't needed anything else. I also have the rear brake light/flasher bar. There have been no problems and no extra wiring. I have a 6V system. Steve (at Bert's) recommended a different coil wire, which was inexpensive. I am thinking that maybe it was shielded or something for interference? That is the only difference

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by Lee Mitch

I did what "ModelA29" did and used all LED bulbs with an LED flasher and haven't needed anything else. I also have the rear brake light/flasher bar. There have been no problems and no extra wiring. I have a 6V system. Steve (at Bert's) recommended a different coil wire, which was inexpensive. I am thinking that maybe it was shielded or something for interference? That is the only difference

Probably modern resistor wire.