Another 7 tooth Steering Question

[psimet]

While I have the engine out of my '28 I was going to pull the column and steering box as it has been leaking (of course). I have a seal kit for it. I have already pulled the steering wheel and light switch. Stopped just before removing it from the frame.

I haven't driven the car very much but I haven't noticed any issues with the steering. I was really going to do this to replace the upper control rods bushing, clean everything up and try and limit the leakage from the box.

I am not opposed to diving in but is there anything I should look at while I have it out to determine if I should be doing a deeper service or complete rebuild?

[rotorwrench]

Most all steering gears are rated for condition by the play in the steering wheel. If turning play is minimal then it likely won't need an overhaul. There are few gaskets on this type. Worn sector gear bushings can cause leakage there where the shaft exits the case. Look to see where the leak is coming from and you will know where to do some work to seal it better. The 7-tooth is less complicated than the 2-tooth but it is not more simple to overhaul. Putting the spark and throttle rods back in is easier if you pull the top bushing but those can be a PITA to replace. Most old original zinc bushings tend to weld themselves in there. The reproduction aluminum ones are better but still pretty tight.

[psimet]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Most all steering gears are rated for condition by the play in the steering wheel. If turning play is minimal then it likely won't need an overhaul. There are few gaskets on this type. Worn sector gear bushings can cause leakage there where the shaft exits the case. Look to see where the leak is coming from and you will know where to do some work to seal it better. The 7-tooth is less complicated than the 2-tooth but it is not more simple to overhaul. Putting the spark and throttle rods back in is easier if you pull the top bushing but those can be a PITA to replace. Most old original zinc bushings tend to weld themselves in there. The reproduction aluminum ones are better but still pretty tight.

This bushing is original. I started dropping oil on the control rods at the bushing every day for a few months before they finally freed up enough to run the car a few years ago but it’s ring for it to come out and be replaced. This one has the screws in the sides holding it in but I do have a slide hammer and a lot of blind hole bearing collets so I’m sure I can find something that will work.

Can’t tell where the leak is coming from because it’s been empty for a while but the light switch housing at the bottom has had oil dripping out of it since I first filled the steering box.

There’s so much caked on grease and dirt that I want to remove the column to clean and paint it all anyway.

[rotorwrench]

I generally cut them with a reciprocating saw and take them out in pieces. The old zinc castings like to expand as they deteriorate over long periods of time and the elements. I tried expanding slide hammer bushing pullers but they weren't centered well enough to do any good at all. My pneumatic recip saw cut it pretty easy. I had to drill and tap the new one for the little flush head screws but aluminum is easy to work with.

[psimet]

It’s been….interesting. Had to chisel out the bushing to even get the rods out. Box had been filled with grease by my uncle sometime in the 70’s/80’s. I put 600w in it a few years back. Tbh it was super smooth but it leaked.

Bottom felt seal was basically gone. I wanted to run one of this that has a pipe that goes up above the oil level but a quick measure and the hold in my steering shaft isn’t large enough.

Stripping the housing and painting it next.

What’s the current thought on what lube to put in there? I kind of like the idea of cornhead grease mixed with 600w…

[psimet]

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[al's28/33]

I say pull it and rebuild now, you're half way down the yellow brick road already. You will be happy you did and you're already aware of the dangers along the way.

[Marshall V. Daut]

If there's grease in the steering box, you can bet the sector gear teeth are worn and will show shiny signs of wear divots on their faces. This will create loose steering play at the steering wheel because the sector teeth no longer make full contact against the worm gear. Chassis grease is death to Model A steering boxes! You're at the stage of disassembly where it makes sense to install a new seven-tooth sector gear, which will reduce slop in the steering.
If you can't afford Penrite Steering Lube (kind of pricey for a one-time filling), mix equal parts of STP oil treatment and 600w. I hear pros and cons about Cornhead grease. No personal experience with it. The STP/600w mix will do the trick to lube the gears and reduce leaking, although not as well as Penrite.
Marshall

[nkaminar]

There is a lower seal retainer that includes a tube, see link below. What this does is raise the leakage point to above the level of the oil in the box so that the box will not leak from the retainer.

The 600W oil was fine in 1930 but oils have been improved since then. The modern oils include additives that reduce wear. I recommend 90W-140 G5 gear oil in the steering box.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7839&cat=41749

[Randall]

Have someone machine your steering box for a seal and be done with leaks while you have it out https://youtu.be/Qpp9Pd1OrfE?si=m_tRSY0iSopyTsbl

[Marshall V. Daut]

In 1928 until (?), Model A's came from the factory with Zerk fittings on top of the seven-tooth steering boxes. This grease fitting oddly was NOT intended for traditional grease. Rather, Ford dealership repair shops pumped a special thick lube into the steering box through that nipple. The lube was thicker than what is called 600w today. It didn't leak out of the steering box as easily as 600w does by itself. Who ever heard of owners complaining back then about leaking steering boxes when the Model A was new? The complaint Ford did receive about the seven-tooth steering boxes was non-adjustable play that had developed and was not correctable without replacing expensive internal parts and lots of labor time. Over the years when Model A's fell into the hands of 2nd and 3rd generation owners, people started repairing and maintaining their cars themselves or took them to the corner gas station for maintenance. This special lube or the equipment to use it were not commonly handy, so people started pumping chassis grease into the steering boxes. You can't blame them, as that Zerk fitting DOES look like it was meant for normal grease. Subsequent owners made the same mistake, not knowing they were actually delivering a death sentence to the sector gear teeth. I don't know when Ford stopped putting the Zerk fitting in the steering box for lube and changed to a standard pipe plug, but I'm guessing it was in 1929 when the two-tooth design replaced the seven-tooth boxes. When servicing Model A's with the pipe plug, I wonder if the Ford dealerships removed that plug, temporarily installed a Zerk fitting and then pumped the special lube under pressure into the steering box, replacing the Zerk fitting afterwards? The stuff was too thick to simply "pour" it. You know how long it takes to pour even 600w into the steering box! I can't imagine a Ford mechanic standing beside the car for 15 minutes while he patiently poured the goop into the steering box.
Anyway, if your Model A still has that Zerk fitting on top, resist the temptation of using your grease gun. Chassis grease will not coat the gear teeth and will be pushed away from the gears after a few turns. Then the death watch clock starts ticking...
Marshall