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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 2,962
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I know that 40-48 brakes fit the axles. What works best as a Master Cylinder and how to install it?
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? ![]() |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,165
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40-48 brakes are not a direct bolt on to stock deuce spindles and rear end. Different bolt pattern. Requires some work.
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: middle of Iowa
Posts: 888
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They are a direct fit on the rear.
For the master, I welded a new arm on the pedal pointing down, and made a bracket that bolted to the back side of the K member, and held the 68 Mustang master so the rod just cleared the bottom of the K. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smithfield, NC
Posts: 342
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If you are looking for an off the shelf kit, Early V8 garage has bolt-on (no weld) kits that include a master cylinder as well as mounting brackets. Single pot or double pot master cylinder options. Kinda pricey but thought out well.
I have one of their kits in my 34 pickup with a single pot mc which is the 39-48 ford mc. http://www.earlyv8garage.net/ |
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montgomery, NY & Port St. Lucie Florida
Posts: 975
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Go with the Early V8 Garage kit. Make sure you get the Emergency brake kit too.
It's truly bolt on kit. Also, they make a complete formed brake line kit as well. As Krylon32 said the 32 spindles require small adapters. Early V8 Garage may be able to supply those needed parts as well.
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Early Ford Lock & Key Service https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46583 |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central Coast, Calif.
Posts: 868
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Quote:
Boling Brothers make a Lincoln style Bendix backing plate that is the small bolt patter to fit 28-36 spindles. Or you can use original 39-40 Lincoln backing plates and drums, as they will bolt on early spindles. You will need to then covert to 37-41 kingpins using Torrington needle thrusts. Again, Dennis at EV8 Garage can supply that kit. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 2,815
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Here are a couple of links to ponder.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...5&postcount=45 https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nder&showall=1 |
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,302
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The attached photos show how I set up the master cylinder on my '32 roadster. I did this in 1972 but if I was doing it today I would probably use a dual master cylinder. I bolted a steel plate to the rear of the K member using mostly existing holes and extended the bracket from there. I retained the original brake and clutch pedal assembly. I relocated the battery to the right side off the car but with todays batteries there are probably other options. The original hole to fill the battery was in exactly the correct position to fill the master cylinder.
Charlie Stephens |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: FP, NJ
Posts: 2,811
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This is what's recommended in the Bishop-Tardel book using the early Ford master cylinder. They even give you a drawing of the bracket for the master cylinder. I did the set up for my brother's '32 and found out that the ratio of the pedal to the pivot and the master cylinder piston is 4:1. It seems that on most cars, that ratio is 6:1 and the 4:1 ratio requires a bunch more force on the pedal to get the same amount of whoa! For my 'A', I designed my own K member, moving the master cylinder up enough to get that 6:1 ratio. I had to make a new pedal bracket and a ledge in the K member to hold it. I also made my own pedals out of 3/8 plate. Worked out nicely.
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Don't never get rid of nuthin! Last edited by PeteVS; 02-24-2025 at 08:35 PM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FP, NJ
Posts: 2,811
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Here's a picture of the K member early on.
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Don't never get rid of nuthin! |
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,165
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I ain't the sharpest tack in the box but have sold a lot of Boling Bros brakes and they have different backing plates for the 32-34 spindles, 35-36 spindles and 37 up spindles. Rear backing plates are also separated by years, 32-34, 35-36 & 37 up. I don't think the rears are universal for all years? I feel certain someone here will tell me how dumb I am?
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: middle of Iowa
Posts: 888
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Gary, if you put 39-41 or 42-48 Ford brakes on your 32 rear, it’s a bolt on. If you want Lincolns, I think there is a little clearancing needed for the spring perch. Maybe Boling does the clearancing for you?
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#13 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 2,815
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Regarding the thread link I posted above in post #7.
The below is part of the text from post #5 of https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nder&showall=1 The beauty is you get a lot of fluid movement and then the easy pedal action off the step. My brake arm ratio is 4 1/3 with the rod tight up against the K-section. "I currently have a stepped bore master in my 32. The stepped bore was designed for moving a large volume of fluid quickly to take up the gap in early Chevy applications that used front disks that were low drag. These are the bore sizes on my CARDONE 101905. Note that there are no residual check valves inside this MS so those shall be added into your system. Bore Diameter (N) 0.945" Bore Diameter (N-1) 1.25" For the front brakes, primary side, the initial lower pressure fluid is pushed with the N-1 large bore of 1.25". This closes the gap between front shoes and brake drum, then the N bore of 0.945" applies high pressure to both the front and rear brake drums. The advantage is that the initial 1/4" stroke takes up the gap and then the smaller N bore takes over. The pedal stays high without a lot of pedal travel. I'm very happy with this setup but I also believe that Krylon's MS is a great choice too."
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat's Notes Techno-Source-for-the-1932-thru-1953-Flathead-Ford |
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 2,962
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? ![]() |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,459
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Basking Ridge, NJ
Posts: 686
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My favorite, all reworked Ford parts including the 32 brake trundle, keeps the MC under the floor.
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#17 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: imperial,mo
Posts: 744
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Box car Tom, that is a very clean set-up, what is the original application of the actuating arms?
Tom |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Basking Ridge, NJ
Posts: 686
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hotcoupe, Tom, Full disclosure, this is not my design, I wish I could take credit for it but the fact is I found these pictures on the inter-net some time ago. The simplicity of the redesign is sheer hot rod genius.
The set up reuses the original 32 trundle. The actuating arms are modified 32 trundle arms. The original 32 brake and clutch pedal set is reused without modification. Tom |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 9,079
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It's a neat setup and I saw Matt at Irontrap use the same or similar on a 32 recently. I do not like it however because it relies on two pinned joints. If I were to use those parts I would weld the levers to the shaft for extra security.
Probably overkill but it is a safety critical item. Mart. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Basking Ridge, NJ
Posts: 686
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No more vulnerable than the original mechanical brake system. Maybe overkill is prudent when higher performance is expected.
Tom, |
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