Any tips on repairing 38 ford emblem

[caf]

The threads are pulled out on 1 of 4,, it looks like brass,there not enough there for me to retap it,thinking maybe propane torch with wire solder a 12 24 stud in. Thanks ahead for any suggestions

[mercman from oz]

I don't recognise this part from a 1938 Ford?

[caf]

Im trying to dig up photos from the back of my 38 before i tore it down in 93 , it was on the decklid,was originaly a club convertible from argentina,this is the emblem from the front,curiuos if you or any one recognize it

[KULTULZ]

CLICK HERE - https://www.smittyschromeshop.com/services

[ThirstyThirty]

looks like a simple thread restoration repair to me.

if it was mine, i would make a suitable threaded plug to fit worn out threaded hole. then set it in and lock it with Locktite RED or with some Epoxy JB. I mite even try both. not mixed though!! separate location. detail work!! ~

drill and tap accordingly before setting in plug. light file for finish flush. i would be careful with how tight i tightened it once returned to service. and ck it regularly. i prob would use Locktite Blue on all securing fasteners.

Good Luck!

let us know how you do it!

[ThirstyThirty]

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Originally Posted by caf

The threads are pulled out on 1 of 4,, it looks like brass,there not enough there for me to retap it,thinking maybe propane torch with wire solder a 12 24 stud in. Thanks ahead for any suggestions

for me, i would put no heat on it as a DIY project! at least not a p torch. clean brass, so right amount heat/flux and it could be a soldering project. c/l for stud to car mite be hard to stabilize. i like cold approach best.

[caf]

Originally Posted by ThirstyThirty

for me, i would put no heat on it as a DIY project! at least not a p torch. clean brass, so right amount heat/flux and it could be a soldering project. c/l for stud to car mite be hard to stabilize. i like cold approach best.

i drilled it and attempted to tap it but i only have about 1/8 of thickness before im out the front side and even with a blunt tap i was unsuccessful, think i will try your cold jb weld fix a shot and epoxy a 12 nut in it
thanks much

[caf]

Originally Posted by caf

i drilled it and attempted to tap it but i only have about 1/8 of thickness before im out the front side and even with a blunt tap i was unsuccessful, think i will try your cold jb weld fix a shot and epoxy a 12 nut in it
thanks much

i widen the hole a little more till this screw head fit and j b welded it

[ThirstyThirty]

hate to say it, but doubt it will hold well. if just drilled out and stud glued in... no holding power. well, imo. i used to make my living with Epoxy JB... know a lot! i had hoped for the plug idea. then u had locking threads, even if worn or loose to hold in stud. stud to be used original size, ie then screws into glued plug threads. those that would have been cut.

so now you have it like this. if it was mine, depending on needs, i would make a vibration damper gasket for back of emblem. felt or similar. ez to attach backside. and when i installed it, i would draw all nuts on mounting studs finger only. and load all studs same, ie tightening. when got to the new repair, i would only go 1/4 turn more. 1/4 more (1/2) if u feel lucky! others 1/2. you need transverse locking, you got lateral install... so be gentle. and i would Locktite Blue all nuts. with the good uns and the new... being gentle on them all should hold emblem well and not overload new. if new stud cracks out, well... you still got others to hold emblem. i would inspect each time i drove car first dozen or so times. skip Lucky 13... lol and bet on 14!

glad to see you liked the idea...

keep us posted.

[ThirstyThirty]

Originally Posted by caf

i widen the hole a little more till this screw head fit and j b welded it

is it an interference fit? if so, i am thinking would cut some threads. if so, then should hold well. that is... 'til it don't!


i see now mention of JB'd nut. that should help...

[ThirstyThirty]

btw, if it was mine, now that it is done... i would set it aside on workbench or shop shelf and let it sit for 5-7 days. latter preferred. in a warm environment. i would not try it in 24 hrs...


voice of experience!

[caf]

Originally Posted by ThirstyThirty

btw, if it was mine, now that it is done... i would set it aside on workbench or shop shelf and let it sit for 5-7 days. latter preferred. in a warm environment. i would not try it in 24 hrs...


voice of experience!

probably not ideal and found jb weld isnt either,i didnt have on hand but have favored west marine,s 2 part in the past,but no rush with this it can sit for a while to cure up, thanks much Thirsty appreciate the help

[ThirstyThirty]

Originally Posted by caf

probably not ideal and found jb weld isnt either,i didnt have on hand but have favored west marine,s 2 part in the past,but no rush with this it can sit for a while to cure up, thanks much Thirsty appreciate the help

i did some further thinking on it last nite. seems to me, if it fails and u need to redo a solder job would be ez to do with propane torch. i would, if mine... wet up some rags to be heat sinks, top and bottom and close to stud/brass interface location. then with some good flux on to stud and base area as i passed torch hither n yon... heat it up gently so that the solder (rosin type) would easily flow into work area upon touching stud. wouldn't take much at all, especially if a nut still incorporated in the combo of parts.

[Ford blue blood]

As long as you have "holding" cuts/grooves you should be OK. Had a problem with a 58 Edsel grill trim. Was still in place and holding after five years.

[caf]

Originally Posted by ThirstyThirty

i did some further thinking on it last nite. seems to me, if it fails and u need to redo a solder job would be ez to do with propane torch. i would, if mine... wet up some rags to be heat sinks, top and bottom and close to stud/brass interface location. then with some good flux on to stud and base area as i passed torch hither n yon... heat it up gently so that the solder (rosin type) would easily flow into work area upon touching stud. wouldn't take much at all, especially if a nut still incorporated in the combo of parts.

Thirsty ,,,thats a good idea with the rags for heat sinks,i suspect the JB weld is going to hold especialy considering its 1 of 4 holding it, but if not solder will be the next thing i try,,thanks again

[caf]

Originally Posted by Ford blue blood

As long as you have "holding" cuts/grooves you should be OK. Had a problem with a 58 Edsel grill trim. Was still in place and holding after five years.

i did rough up the head of the screw with my die grinder so it would have a little more bite on it,also it was a tapered screw completly submerged in the JB Weld,pretty sure as long as i dont nuts over torqing it should hold.thanks for the post

[ford38v8]

You might think about how to hang it on your wall because it's not from any Ford that I am aware of.

[mercman from oz]

1938 Ford Deluxe Convertible Club Coupe
As ford38v8 suggested, the emblem that you are repairing is not original Ford.
You can see that it is not present on this restored beauty.

[caf]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

1938 Ford Deluxe Convertible Club Coupe
As ford38v8 suggested, the emblem that you are repairing is not original Ford.
You can see that it is not present on this restored beauty.

thanks you guys,Rusty informed me on another post its a 1953 Chrysler Imperial trunk emblem

[mercman from oz]

Rusty is correct - 1953 Imperial Trunk Emblem. Problem solved.