The Ford Barn

benbuilder · 02-18-2025, 04:01 PM

I bought a pick up truck that hasn’t been running for about 12 years.
The lights did not work when I got it. In fact, there were no bulbs in the sockets. I put in new bulbs, but no lights lit up.

I took apart the headlight switch, when I did, the spider gear fell out in my hand. I put together the spring, spider gear and the c clip as I saw on a you tube video. When connected, the gear is straight up and down and the light switch is in the lower center of the steering wheel.

I assumed that by putting it back together, my light should work.

My truck has the main center light and the parking lights which are at about 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock.

When I turned the lights on, either to the left or to the right, three of the four lights light up. There is no change going either way. When I turn the lights on both parking lights go on and one headlight goes on. The driver side headlight will not turn on. There is no power to the ds headlight.

While testing the wires, I noticed that if I stick my test light between the two leads on the passenger side main headlight, the driver side headlight will turn on.

I’ve never owned a Model A so I could use any help You can give me
thank you.

Gary WA · 02-18-2025, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benbuilder

I bought a pick up truck that hasn’t been running for about 12 years.
The lights did not work when I got it. In fact, there were no bulbs in the sockets. I put in new bulbs, but no lights lit up.

I took apart the headlight switch, when I did, the spider gear fell out in my hand. I put together the spring, spider gear and the c clip as I saw on a you tube video. When connected, the gear is straight up and down and the light switch is in the lower center of the steering wheel.

I assumed that by putting it back together, my light should work.

My truck has the main center light and the parking lights which are at about 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock.

When I turned the lights on, either to the left or to the right, three of the four lights light up. There is no change going either way. When I turn the lights on both parking lights go on and one headlight goes on. The driver side headlight will not turn on. There is no power to the ds headlight.

While testing the wires, I noticed that if I stick my test light between the two leads on the passenger side main headlight, the driver side headlight will turn on.

I’ve never owned a Model A so I could use any help You can give me
thank you.

Bad ground

Y-Blockhead · 02-18-2025, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benbuilder

My truck has the main center light and the parking lights which are at about 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock.

I agree, bad ground. Also, shouldn't the parking lights both be at 12:00? Sounds like your reflectors are rotated.

nkaminar · 02-19-2025, 07:39 AM

The grounding of the headlight bucket depends on good metallic contact of the bucket to the headlight bar and the bar to the fenders and the fenders to the frame. If there is rust or lots of paint that can restrict the ground. Use your ohm meter to test for a good ground and either correct it or run a ground wire to a place that has a good ground.

The connectors at headlight buckets, especially with repo parts, can be a source of problems. In my car the wires are lead into the buckets where bullet type connectors are used for the individual wires. The stainless connector is still used so that from the outside it looks the same as original.

It sounds like there is some error in the wiring or the switch. It will take some careful analysis to trace down the fault. Depending on what year your car is, you should have only parking lights when the switch is rotated left and low beam when rotated one notch to the right and high beam when rotated two notches to the right, but no parking lights when the headlights are lit.

benbuilder · 02-19-2025, 07:29 PM

OK. I can correct the clocking of the reflectors.

I will work on the grounds.

If i can, start from the beginning. I just disconnected the switch. when i move the lever on the wheel, I can go from 7 to 4. I do not feel any bumps. I assume this is correct because the switch is not connected.

am i correct so far?

I know i am putting the switch together correctly its really hard to mess this up

Badpuppy · 02-20-2025, 08:14 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The bumps are caused by the triangular contactor passing over the depressions in the plastic "puck".

Y-Blockhead · 02-20-2025, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benbuilder

OK. I can correct the clocking of the reflectors.

I will work on the grounds.

If i can, start from the beginning. I just disconnected the switch. when i move the lever on the wheel, I can go from 7 to 4. I do not feel any bumps. I assume this is correct because the switch is not connected.

am i correct so far?

I know i am putting the switch together correctlyits really hard to messs this up

You are correct so far.

benbuilder · 02-20-2025, 07:02 PM

Thanks, this weekend i may get to spend some time on it
appreciate the help

benbuilder · 03-08-2025, 05:07 PM

I spent all day out in the garage working on the lights. This is what i came up with.

Rear End
I have a brake light
The other light for license plate lights up at 4, 5 and 7 oclock

Front end has new aftermarket light pigtails

Front
Pass side
I have the small marker light at 7 o'clock
It seem that the terminals at 4 and 5 o'clock are backwards.

Driver side
I struggled with this side as everything lit up in incorrect positions.
I have read on line that the aftermarket pigtail are not so i good.
Thinking that the wires may have been incorrectly installed by the previous owner, I cut the wires after they entered the headlight bucket and tested them to see how they lit up. I was able to duplicate the passenger side light positions. I connected the pigtail to the cut wires.
The only negative is that the high and low lights seemed dimmer on the driver side than on the pass side
The small marker light seemed as bright as the pass side.

Is there something going on that i am missing here?

Y-Blockhead · 03-08-2025, 05:28 PM

Do you have the same CP (candle power) bulb in each side? Same voltage per side? Clean reflectors?

nkaminar · 03-08-2025, 06:17 PM

Could be poor ground on starboard side (driver side).

Y-Blockhead · 03-08-2025, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Could be poor ground on starboard side (driver side).

And we've gone full circle, bad ground was mentioned in post#2.

benbuilder · 03-08-2025, 06:52 PM

I will check voltage tomorrow. good point

same bulbs, brand new, just bought from same supplier

good grounds for sure.

For the rear, the were no grounds, the light bracket was mounted to wood olly. Not sure how previous owner got an inspection sticker.

benbuilder · 03-09-2025, 09:36 AM

I checked my voltage on the driver side headlights. I only have 4.7 volts on this side.
Driver side marker lights are at 5.7 volts and bright
alternator wire stud is 6 volts

so does that mean a short on driver side wires?

Bob C · 03-09-2025, 12:54 PM

4.7 volts would most likely be a loose or dirty connection.
The tail light mounted to the wood block should ground through
the bolt that hold the bracket to the bed.

old31 · 03-09-2025, 02:06 PM

Double-check this. Where the taillight hooks up to the arm/bracket take a wire wheel and make sure all the paint is off the bracket. Clean the backside of the taillight(s) as well.

Where the headlight attaches to the arm, take a wire wheel and clean out the round dish that the headlight bolts to on the headlight bar.

Take a round 1/2" wire brush and clean out all of the locations where a bulb would be inserted.

In the headlights check the wires that are attached to the device that the bulb plugs into.

#4 post has it nailed.

You mentioned that you never have owned an A, you will soon find out that this is both the frustration and love for these cars.

benbuilder · 03-09-2025, 06:36 PM

thanks for all the help. I thought i had all the wires set and working, although not bright.
I took the truck for a drive on my long driveway. when i came back, all the lights were messed up, like really messed up.
I brought it in the garage. Just then a guy from the local club who i had been talking to, came in with a new harness and some ideas.
I explained what happened. We took apart the headlight switch. He thinks the contacts on the switch seem worn out.
I plan on buying a new switch tomorrow and see what that does with my harness. If that does not work, i will replace the harness.
I have excellent grounds on the headlight buckets. I cleaned everything with a wire wheel. Its not the grounds. But i do appreciate the help
I am not going to quit, i understand this is part of owning an old car.
I will report back

Doug Linden · 03-09-2025, 08:15 PM

Sounds like you are making progress with the wiring and switch.

benbuilder · 03-11-2025, 06:51 PM

Today, i installed a new headlight switch with the old harness. No difference, still hap hazaard/haywire lights.

I then took a new harness and powered it up at the alternator- yes its an alternator and laid out the wires as they would be installed. A test first before install.

The front lights worked as they should. so it was probably the harness.

When i install the harness for good, i will try the old switch with the new harness to see if it works.

I prefer to use the old switch. for a few reasons. The first is that the new switch is one inch shorter than the old switch which is creating a problem with the clamp/spring/latch that holds it in place.

Thanks for the help

benbuilder · 03-31-2025, 07:28 PM

Since my last post, I bought a new headlight switch and new harness.
I mocked it up on the column by just disconnecting the old harness and hooking up the new, and tested all the wires. All was good. Every wire worked as it was supposed to.
I removed the old harness and began to install the new harness and new switch. Once I had the passenger side done, I turned on the lights and I had the same problem again. Two lights on at a time. i have good grounds.
When I take the cloth harness off of the headlight and test, all is well again.
i don't think the harness or switch were bad, i think the problem is in the headlight connections.
What is happening when i hook up the cloth harness pins into the plastic sleeve that holds the pins in the back of the headlight? somehow the headlight pigtails are touching/ shorting, but where?

02-18-2025, 04:01 PM	#1
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Headlights 1931 I bought a pick up truck that hasn’t been running for about 12 years. The lights did not work when I got it. In fact, there were no bulbs in the sockets. I put in new bulbs, but no lights lit up. I took apart the headlight switch, when I did, the spider gear fell out in my hand. I put together the spring, spider gear and the c clip as I saw on a you tube video. When connected, the gear is straight up and down and the light switch is in the lower center of the steering wheel. I assumed that by putting it back together, my light should work. My truck has the main center light and the parking lights which are at about 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock. When I turned the lights on, either to the left or to the right, three of the four lights light up. There is no change going either way. When I turn the lights on both parking lights go on and one headlight goes on. The driver side headlight will not turn on. There is no power to the ds headlight. While testing the wires, I noticed that if I stick my test light between the two leads on the passenger side main headlight, the driver side headlight will turn on. I’ve never owned a Model A so I could use any help You can give me thank you.

02-19-2025, 07:29 PM	#5
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 OK. I can correct the clocking of the reflectors. I will work on the grounds. If i can, start from the beginning. I just disconnected the switch. when i move the lever on the wheel, I can go from 7 to 4. I do not feel any bumps. I assume this is correct because the switch is not connected. am i correct so far? I know i am putting the switch together correctly its really hard to mess this up Last edited by benbuilder; 02-20-2025 at 07:03 PM.

02-20-2025, 08:14 AM	#6
Badpuppy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Guthrie, OK Posts: 1,247	Re: Headlights 1931 Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The bumps are caused by the triangular contactor passing over the depressions in the plastic "puck".

02-20-2025, 07:02 PM	#8
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 Thanks, this weekend i may get to spend some time on it appreciate the help

03-08-2025, 05:07 PM	#9
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 I spent all day out in the garage working on the lights. This is what i came up with. Rear End I have a brake light The other light for license plate lights up at 4, 5 and 7 oclock Front end has new aftermarket light pigtails Front Pass side I have the small marker light at 7 o'clock It seem that the terminals at 4 and 5 o'clock are backwards. Driver side I struggled with this side as everything lit up in incorrect positions. I have read on line that the aftermarket pigtail are not so i good. Thinking that the wires may have been incorrectly installed by the previous owner, I cut the wires after they entered the headlight bucket and tested them to see how they lit up. I was able to duplicate the passenger side light positions. I connected the pigtail to the cut wires. The only negative is that the high and low lights seemed dimmer on the driver side than on the pass side The small marker light seemed as bright as the pass side. Is there something going on that i am missing here?

02-19-2025, 07:39 AM	#4
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,856	Re: Headlights 1931 The grounding of the headlight bucket depends on good metallic contact of the bucket to the headlight bar and the bar to the fenders and the fenders to the frame. If there is rust or lots of paint that can restrict the ground. Use your ohm meter to test for a good ground and either correct it or run a ground wire to a place that has a good ground. The connectors at headlight buckets, especially with repo parts, can be a source of problems. In my car the wires are lead into the buckets where bullet type connectors are used for the individual wires. The stainless connector is still used so that from the outside it looks the same as original. It sounds like there is some error in the wiring or the switch. It will take some careful analysis to trace down the fault. Depending on what year your car is, you should have only parking lights when the switch is rotated left and low beam when rotated one notch to the right and high beam when rotated two notches to the right, but no parking lights when the headlights are lit. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 02-19-2025 at 07:56 AM.

03-08-2025, 05:28 PM	#10
Y-Blockhead Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 6,644	Re: Headlights 1931 Do you have the same CP (candle power) bulb in each side? Same voltage per side? Clean reflectors? Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 03-08-2025 at 06:38 PM.

03-08-2025, 06:17 PM	#11
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 5,856	Re: Headlights 1931 Could be poor ground on starboard side (driver side). __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

03-08-2025, 06:52 PM	#13
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 I will check voltage tomorrow. good point same bulbs, brand new, just bought from same supplier good grounds for sure. For the rear, the were no grounds, the light bracket was mounted to wood olly. Not sure how previous owner got an inspection sticker.

03-09-2025, 09:36 AM	#14
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 I checked my voltage on the driver side headlights. I only have 4.7 volts on this side. Driver side marker lights are at 5.7 volts and bright alternator wire stud is 6 volts so does that mean a short on driver side wires? Last edited by benbuilder; 03-09-2025 at 10:11 AM.

03-09-2025, 12:54 PM	#15
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 9,359	Re: Headlights 1931 4.7 volts would most likely be a loose or dirty connection. The tail light mounted to the wood block should ground through the bolt that hold the bracket to the bed.

03-09-2025, 02:06 PM	#16
old31 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 2,459	Re: Headlights 1931 Double-check this. Where the taillight hooks up to the arm/bracket take a wire wheel and make sure all the paint is off the bracket. Clean the backside of the taillight(s) as well. Where the headlight attaches to the arm, take a wire wheel and clean out the round dish that the headlight bolts to on the headlight bar. Take a round 1/2" wire brush and clean out all of the locations where a bulb would be inserted. In the headlights check the wires that are attached to the device that the bulb plugs into. #4 post has it nailed. You mentioned that you never have owned an A, you will soon find out that this is both the frustration and love for these cars.

03-09-2025, 06:36 PM	#17
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 thanks for all the help. I thought i had all the wires set and working, although not bright. I took the truck for a drive on my long driveway. when i came back, all the lights were messed up, like really messed up. I brought it in the garage. Just then a guy from the local club who i had been talking to, came in with a new harness and some ideas. I explained what happened. We took apart the headlight switch. He thinks the contacts on the switch seem worn out. I plan on buying a new switch tomorrow and see what that does with my harness. If that does not work, i will replace the harness. I have excellent grounds on the headlight buckets. I cleaned everything with a wire wheel. Its not the grounds. But i do appreciate the help I am not going to quit, i understand this is part of owning an old car. I will report back

03-09-2025, 08:15 PM	#18
Doug Linden Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 292	Re: Headlights 1931 Sounds like you are making progress with the wiring and switch.

03-11-2025, 06:51 PM	#19
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 Today, i installed a new headlight switch with the old harness. No difference, still hap hazaard/haywire lights. I then took a new harness and powered it up at the alternator- yes its an alternator and laid out the wires as they would be installed. A test first before install. The front lights worked as they should. so it was probably the harness. When i install the harness for good, i will try the old switch with the new harness to see if it works. I prefer to use the old switch. for a few reasons. The first is that the new switch is one inch shorter than the old switch which is creating a problem with the clamp/spring/latch that holds it in place. Thanks for the help

03-31-2025, 07:28 PM	#20
benbuilder Member Join Date: May 2020 Posts: 98	Re: Headlights 1931 Since my last post, I bought a new headlight switch and new harness. I mocked it up on the column by just disconnecting the old harness and hooking up the new, and tested all the wires. All was good. Every wire worked as it was supposed to. I removed the old harness and began to install the new harness and new switch. Once I had the passenger side done, I turned on the lights and I had the same problem again. Two lights on at a time. i have good grounds. When I take the cloth harness off of the headlight and test, all is well again. i don't think the harness or switch were bad, i think the problem is in the headlight connections. What is happening when i hook up the cloth harness pins into the plastic sleeve that holds the pins in the back of the headlight? somehow the headlight pigtails are touching/ shorting, but where?