Engine Should Haves

[Bob Bidonde]

All Model "A" & "B" engines should be restored with:
>Modern insert type main & connecting rod bearings;
>Modern stainless steel valves, modern one-piece valve guides & adjustable lifters;
>Modern valve seat inserts for all valves;
>Light weight modern pistons;
>Modern multi-viscosity motor oil with a synthetic blend or full synthetic;
>Modern oil seals on the crankshaft;
>New 5.5:1 or 6:1 compression cylinder head;
>Copper cylinder head gasket;
>Stock breaker point ignition;
>Aluminum 2-blade fan or plastic 6-blade fan;
>Leakless water pump with modern press-fit front bearing;
>160F or 180F thermostat;
>New reproduction exhaust manifold;
>Modern fiber or aluminum timing gear;
>Model "B" grind camshaft;
>Lightened flywheel & V8 type clutch;
>Temperature gauge;
>Oil drain plug fitting soldered or brazed to the oil pan so it cannot spin;
>Engine side pans:
>Popout cable clamp mod to avoid taking off the #8 head nut to remove the distributor;
>Edges of all water passages in the cylinder block, cylinder head, the tops & bottoms of cylinders chamfered to remove sharp edges that are crack initiation sites;
>Edges of all stud holes chamfered to remove sharp edges;
>Static & spin balancing of rotating & reciprocating parts;
>Block pressure tested & magnetic particle inspected to detect cracks before rebuilding.

What would you add to the list?

[katy]

That's your opinion, others may vary.

[alexiskai]

Lots to object to in this list, but one element folks may not know about is that people are finding the reproduction V8 pressure plates have stiffer springs than they used to, which obviates much of the benefit.

[Joe K]

people are finding the reproduction V8 pressure plates have stiffer springs than they used to

An "improvement" that Ford compensated for by making the pressure plates take advantage of centrifugal force.

Or so reported... Those with experience with both can report their observations.

Joe K

[kbinde2]

Wow,, mine has been doing ok so far.., with proper maintenance I think it will be running for a long time to come.

[johnneilson]

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Originally Posted by Joe K

An "improvement" that Ford compensated for by making the pressure plates take advantage of centrifugal force.

Or so reported... Those with experience with both can report their observations.

Joe K

So just for information
The V8 pp did have counter weights on the arms to apply more pressure at higher speeds
The Tractor clutch does not have the same counter weights and can have a higher spring rate/preload to compensate

Many vendors sell the tractor style not knowing

J

[J Franklin]

I like my engine mostly stock, but it has an oil & air filter, a brumfield head, ajustable lifters, and automatic advance distributor.

[butch chase]

Inserts or Babbitt are a personal choice.
only an Aluminum or bronze cam gear
Best brand 509G graphite head gasket.
Full flow oil filter

A centrifugal advance Points style distributor, Model B Ford or the new Super B+
Leave the rear slinger alone. I've yet to see a rear main "seal" that didn't drool oil
you cant balance a model A crank without adding counter weights.


In your heart you know you won't be happy until you have Burtz block kit, head, cam, flywheel an an automatic advance distributor.

[JoeCB]

Model A engines should have ? >>>> OIL

Joe B

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Those with experience with both can report their observations.

The point I was trying to make is, no, those with experience with both will not have useful observations. People who have bought reproduction V8 pressure plates recently, including myself, are finding that they respond differently than V8 pressure plates purchased years ago. And I'm talking about the correct plate, the 09A-7563 plate, not the tractor plate. The springs are too stiff. It's possible vendors are using the tractor plate springs in the V8 plate. Notably, the repro plates omit the insulating washer against the springs, so they must be using different springs than the originals.

[Chris Haynes]

This longer release arm makes the stiff V8 clutch work easier. https://www.ecklers.com/model-a-ford...8-24346-1.html

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

This longer release arm makes the stiff V8 clutch work easier. https://www.ecklers.com/model-a-ford...8-24346-1.html

You tried getting anything from Eckler's/MAC's lately??

Get the longer lever from Bratton's https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-RELE...uctinfo/11270/ Cheaper too.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

You tried getting anything from Eckler's/MAC's lately??

Get the longer lever from Bratton's https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-RELE...uctinfo/11270/ Cheaper too.

Agree re: Mac’s/Eckler’s. They’ve abandoned the Model A market, and I suggest that the Model A market return the favor. Not that they were all that great to begin with.

[nkaminar]

No comment.

[dansluck]

Counter weights on crank , keep the slinger but use the brass rear main seal.

Dan

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by dansluck

Counter weights on crank , keep the slinger but use the brass rear main seal.

Dan

Brass seal??? Do you mean BRONZE thrust ring?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

All Model "A" & "B" engines should be restored with:
>Modern insert type main & connecting rod bearings;
>Modern stainless steel valves, modern one-piece valve guides & adjustable lifters;
>Modern valve seat inserts for all valves;
>Light weight modern pistons;
>Modern multi-viscosity motor oil with a synthetic blend or full synthetic;
>Modern oil seals on the crankshaft;
>New 5.5:1 or 6:1 compression cylinder head;
>Copper cylinder head gasket;
>Stock breaker point ignition;
>Aluminum 2-blade fan or plastic 6-blade fan;
>Leakless water pump with modern press-fit front bearing;
>160F or 180F thermostat;
>New reproduction exhaust manifold;
>Modern fiber or aluminum timing gear;
>Model "B" grind camshaft;
>Lightened flywheel & V8 type clutch;
>Temperature gauge;
>Oil drain plug fitting soldered or brazed to the oil pan so it cannot spin;
>Engine side pans:
>Popout cable clamp mod to avoid taking off the #8 head nut to remove the distributor;
>Edges of all water passages in the cylinder block, cylinder head, the tops & bottoms of cylinders chamfered to remove sharp edges that are crack initiation sites;
>Edges of all stud holes chamfered to remove sharp edges;
>Static & spin balancing of rotating & reciprocating parts;
>Block pressure tested & magnetic particle inspected to detect cracks before rebuilding.

What would you add to the list?

Bob, not really 'restoring' if you are doing many of those items are you??

I have offered this before but it bears repeating. Insert conversions are not for everyone. I have another one in the shop right now that has an insert bearing failure. Many are often mislead that once a block has been machined for inserts, then the hobbyist can do bearing maintenance in their own garage without the need for a machinist. More often than not, this isn't the case. It is my experiences that properly cast bearings will outlast insert conversions.

[Flathead]

I like babbitt if properly done. I also like inserts if block is properly machined for them. Both have pros and cons.

[WHN]

Originally Posted by katy

That's your opinion, others may vary.

I agree. Instead of “should”, maybe “I would recommend” would be better.

Happy New Year to everyone.

Enjoy.

[2speed]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Many are often mislead that once a block has been machined for inserts, then the hobbyist can do bearing maintenance in their own garage without the need for a machinist. More often than not, this isn't the case. It is my experiences that properly cast bearings will outlast insert conversions.

What bearing "maintenance" does one do on an insert bearing motor?