Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34

[34 fordor owner]

Hello all, I have a few other posts chasing the same issues that I’m about to go through again here maybe some will have some new ideas.
I have a 1934 flatty sedan that I had running recently in the past with some backfiring. It still has a rebuilt distributor that’s it has ran on great and a rebuilt carb. It will not start again now. In my trouble shooting I found it has 6.4 volts from the battery and following through to the output of the resistor it had 2.3 volts, big drop but it still had spark but would not sputter or try to start with starter fluid either. So, I put a hot wire from the input side of the resistor to the coil to bypass this giving me 4.5 volt to the coil. Tried starting again got spark but still no starting but it will backfire through the tailpipe like it has been. I’m not quite sure where to go now with it having spark but still not starting only backfiring a bit. Is it possible it might need a new condenser?? Any ideas or suggestions I’ll take. I plan to rebuild this car sometime in the future but now it would be cool to here her run again off of what she has.

[Bob C]

You should have battery voltage at the input side of the resistor.
Maybe dirty contacts in the ignition switch.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Bob C

You should have battery voltage at the input side of the resistor.
Maybe dirty contacts in the ignition switch.

Something I can take a look at, 4 volts at the coil with spark should be enough to get it started though right?

[Brian]

Yeah, change out the condenser

[Fritz]

If you only have 4.5 volts at the powered side of the resistor, you’re losing 2 volts between the battery and the resistor, probably at the ignition switch. Finding out where you are losing that 2 volts will help.

[glennpm]

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Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

So, I put a hot wire from the input side of the resistor to the coil to bypass this giving me 4.5 volt to the coil.

Try hot wiring direct from the battery to the coil and see if it starts now.


Glenn

[highbeams]

#4 Brian is right. Change it out.
Could possibly solve the problem.

[34 fordor owner]

Tried Hotwire from battery to coil and still same result got some tiny backfires. Also 6.3 volts from the battery should be enough to turn the engine over fast enough right? I think I’ll get a new condenser.

[Ggmac]

Have you checked compression? Is it possible the timing gear ( if pressed on ) has slipped?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

Have you checked compression? Is it possible the timing gear ( if pressed on ) has slipped?

Compression was a little low cold but pretty consistent. As far as the timing gear I have no clue how to check that.

[John Gibson]

Flatheads will run with Low compression, burnt valve(s), bad distributor settings, lousy carburetor and/or setting, low voltage, etc. They WILL NOT run with a bad condensor! Get a couple new condensers from Michael at Third Gen. Relatively easy to change out. That’s where I would start.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by John Gibson

Flatheads will run with Low compression, burnt valve(s), bad distributor settings, lousy carburetor and/or setting, low voltage, etc. They WILL NOT run with a bad condensor! Get a couple new condensers from Michael at Third Gen. Relatively easy to change out. That’s where I would start.

Okay I think that’s where I will start. Also I have been reading up on how 6volt systems start a little better with 2/0 or 00 gauge cables. Anyone have any experience with this?

[Ken/Alabama]

Has the coil been rebuilt? I’m assuming it’s the original style since you’re going through the resistor. If it hasn’t been rebuilt I highly recommend you get that done.

[pistonbroke]

I run OO gauge on all my 6 volt cars n trucks. The junk from the parts store is about as good as using speaker wire. Those old braided flat cables get green corosion and don't conduct the juice very well either. Tim

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by pistonbroke

I run OO gauge on all my 6 volt cars n trucks. The junk from the parts store is about as good as using speaker wire. Those old braided flat cables get green corosion and don't conduct the juice very well either. Tim

The coil has been rebuilt I forgot to mention that. What’s the best place to find some 00 gauge I’m seeing some sites online have it anywhere else?

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

The coil has been rebuilt I forgot to mention that. What’s the best place to find some 00 gauge I’m seeing some sites online have it anywhere else?

Welding supply stores 🏬

[Terry,OH]

There is no need for 00 wire. Suggest measure the battery voltage at standstill and again while turning the motor over. or charge your battery and then have it checked at local auto parts store. If your battery is good thats a great place to start troubleshooting. Should have the same battery cranking voltage at the battery and at the ON/OFF switch.

[deuce_roadster]

As TerryOH said, Check the battery first, maybe it has a weak cell. I ALWAYS begin any electrical trouble shooting at the battery and cables and follow it out from there. Remember, the ground side of the circuit is just as important as the hot side.

[34 fordor owner]

Did some voltage checking today.
From the battery: 6.4 volts
To the ignition switch: 6.4volts
Ignition switch to resistor: 4.9 volts
Resistor to coil 2.2volts
(Big drops here so still have the hot wire temporarily in place)
Battery to starter switch:6.4volts
Starter switch to starter:3.4 volts
Another drop here which would be the cause to my slow starting issue. I’m guessing I would need about 6 volts to the starter to. So what’s the best way to clean the starter switch connections, or can I even clean up these connections? To see if I can fix the issue that way?

[Bob C]

Check the voltage at the battery POST as you are cranking the engine. I it drops to 3.4 volts then you probably have a weak battery or high current draw from the starter.