Model A Buyers Guide

[Alex S. L.]

I started a thread like this on another forum but got little response, This place seems like a more appropriate place to post this.

I have an opportunity to buy a 1928 Model A ford of unknown body style for what seems to be an excellent price. I am going to look at it on Monday and if it is in the condition it has been described as being in then i will buy it.

What things should i look for when i am checking it out? Does the Model A have any specific problem areas which i should look at very closely?

If I do buy it i will be keeping it mostly stock for now, so i won't be doing any crazy modifications in the foreseeable future.

Anything which would be helpful to a first time Model A buyer would be much appreciated.

[Jim Boehmke]

Don't buy it just because it's a Model A.
Make sure it's the body style you really want and can use comfortably practically.
If the seller is "giving it away", then buy it no matter what and you can resell and keep looking for your "keeper A"

[Jason in TX]

I would ad to Jim's comment that if you DO like the body style, find the best body you can find with the least rust, dents and damage. (Unless it's a rare car, and then you suck it up and bring it back to life!)

Look at the lower edge of the body all the way around. Run your hand under the edge of the fenders and feel how many cracks have been repaired in the fenders. The biggest headache with these cars is fixing the rusted out spots. I would say that everything else is pretty easy to tackle to the novice with common sense and a check book.

[Alex S. L.]

If what i have been told is true then it runs and is yard drivable but hasn't been on the road in 30 years. Has a couple of holes in the floor boards but is otherwise solid. I was also told that it starts right up and doesn't smoke or make any weird or scary metallic noises. The price is currently around 1500$, which seems pretty low compared to most cars I have seen on the web.

Considering how low the price is i will buy it no matter what the body style is if it is in as good shape as I have been told.

[Pa Joe]

Frame sag near the back motor mounts seems to be the most costly and hardest thing to fix. That's the first thing I would look for. Look to see how the doors and hood line up. That's usually the first clue to frame sag. Look for a gap at the bottom of the hood side. Look for oil leaks. I don't have any because my motor was just rebuilt, but many of the more experienced Aers on this site say a small quarter size drip from the back of the motor is normal. If it was me, I would ask to see any dated receipts for engine rebuild and any other professional work done plus any parts receipts. I always take a jack with me to check king pins and slop in the steering and free play in the steerig wheel. The frame sag issue, I wouldn't even think of buying the car, the other stuff you can fix if you get the car cheap enough to put the parts in it and you enjoy doing it. just my two cents, I'm sure you will get many opinions. One more thing, definately drive it, that can tell you a few things about the car.

[Alex S. L.]

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I'm new at the VERY old car game. What should i look for when driving it? I'm really not used to driving anything near that old, with all the double clutching and whatnot.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I think that the MOST important thing to look for is IF the car has a free and clear title and can be registered in your name in your state or province.

[Alex S. L.]

Excellent point, i will check out what i might be looking at at the local dmv

[1930artdeco]

Here is my two cents worth. I am assuming that you have some mechanical background and some knowledge of Model A's. It is only $1500 and it has not run in 30 yrs, so be prepared to do some work. There is the engine which should looked at heavily. Check the amount of sludge in the pan, the bearings, compression, radiator and all other fluids that may have drained out over 30 years.

Body Rust from salted roads? She will probably need new tires and brakes (highly recommend cast iron drums). If it is a four door sedan see if you can check on the condition of the wood in the body. If it was garaged and taken care of then you are that much further ahead. And as Jason said if it is a rare body style then just grab her and deal with the money later.

Mike

[Alex S. L.]

I don't think the whole lien thing will be a problem, i think that is an American thing. I've never heard of that being a problem here in Canada.

[Alex S. L.]

It has been stored inside for something like the last 40 years and has been run and lightly driven recently.

I do have a fair bit of mechanical background, I'm actually an engineering student. But I'm not really familiar nor have any experience with Model A's specifically.

I figured tires and brakes were a given.

[Charlie Stephens]

Check the wood, especially if it's a 4 door sedan. Take a lot of pictures and post them here for comments if you don't bring it home on the first trip. Remember the warning "If it sounds too good to be true it probably is".

Charlie Stephens

[kelley's restoration]

if its a 30 or older 4 door make sure the wood in the subframe isn't rotten
if it is then just forget about it
31 had a steel subframe
tk

[Alex S. L.]

How do i check the sub-frame wood? Is it best seen from under the car or what?

P.S. I'm not asking how to tell if wood is rotten.

P.P.S. It is a 1928

[kelley's restoration]

you will see it when you open the door
if its a 4 door chances are some of the wood is dry rotten
tk

Originally Posted by Alex S. L.

How do i check the sub-frame wood? Is it best seen from under the car or what?

P.S. I'm not asking how to tell if wood is rotten.

P.P.S. It is a 1928

[Alex S. L.]

Ok, if it readily visible i should have no trouble.

I'll bring a long straight edge to check for frame sagging.

[JTW]

If it is mostly whole, is not falling apart, and runs and drives, it has more than $1500 worth of parts in it at the very least - just go there and buy it, you probably will be able to tell right off the bat.

[Dick Carne]

Alex -

I agree with JTW, the parts alone are worth the asking price. Complete running gears are bringing anywhere from $1,000 - $3,000; those that run are typically toward the upper end of the price spectrum. It used to be that fordors were fairly common, and perhaps they are moreso than some of the other body styles, but there seems to be a much greater demand for these than there was 30 years ago as well. Any car that has been sitting for 30 years or so is going to require some work - but all things considered, I don't see how you can make a mistake at the asking price. Good luck whatever you decide.

Dick

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by kelley's restoration

if its a 30 or older 4 door make sure the wood in the subframe isn't rotten
if it is then just forget about it
31 had a steel subframe
tk

Minor correction. You should have said '31 slant window had a steel subframe. The few vertical window 4 door sedans built in early '31 still had the wood.

Charlie Stephens

[Alex S. L.]

What kind of a job is replacing a wooden subframe?