Thermostats. Leave in or remove

[oldford]

Every season I go thru this ritual of removing or installing thermostats. I remove in the summer because I have Skip’s pumps and according to his instructions, they should be removed in the summer. But in a 35 it’s a lot of work, because you have to remove the pumps in order to remove the stats. And bending the hose is no option. But I’m wondering is it necessary to remove. I read one article where it stated they should be kept in so the water can be exposed to the radiator longer. But I guess I’m wasting money by buying Skip’s high flow pumps if I plan on leaving the thermostats in. What are your thoughts?

[Lawson Cox]

I would leave them in, especially if it is not running hot. My 2¢

[Ronnie]

Keep em in

My 2¢ also

Ronnie

[ken ct]

I leave my 175 deg. in yr. round. My 3 cents. ken ct.

[Henry/Kokomo]

I agree with Lawson, Ronnie and Ken. Additionally, if the engine does run hot with the thermostats in place, something else is wrong. The thermostat should only effect the rate at which the engine warms up. My $.03 will make it an even dime.

[Coupe35]

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I have skips pumps too. Why does he tell us to remove them in the summer if they do not have any effect on the cooling.

[Flat Ernie]

Originally Posted by oldford

I read one article where it stated they should be kept in so the water can be exposed to the radiator longer.

If it's in the radiator longer, it's in the engine longer absorbing more heat - there is no free lunch.

Only two things improve cooling - more flow and a bigger radiator.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I'm not sure I understand why you need to remove your pumps to remove your thermostats? What type of TS are you using? About two years ago I was having a problem with my '35 losing coolant and over heating. I sent a set of pumps to Skip for a rebuild and bought one of his radiator over flow check valves. I put the check valve on first to see what it would do. It stopped the coolant lose completely and then I had no more over heating. Engine temps were 185 to 195*F. Six months later I put the rebuilt pumps on. Engine temps were then lowered to 175-185*F. I did not remove my TS while making these changes. They are still in place and I don't plan to remove them unless it becomes necessary.

[G.M.]

JM The stats or OK when it's cool out but when it gets 90 out your going the be back in the 195 range. This is to hot when you get in traffic and it also gets very hot in the car. Remove them and it will be in the 175 to 180 range. G.M.

[makemc]

I have Skip's pumps and I live in Fl. and leave mine
in all year, my car runs the same temp, around 175
to 180 winter or summer, just mine, yours may
be differant

[G.M.]

It depends on the flow opening hole in the stats. Any modern stats that fit in the outlet of the head have a small opening and restrict the flow of coolant and cause higher temperatures in 90 degree outside temps. On 49 to 53 ford engines with the stat in the goose necks there are stats made by Prestone #330-160, 330-170 with large flow holes that don't restrict the flow but these don't fit the 32 to 48 engines. Stats don't cool an engine they only make them run hotter. G.M.

[Ronnie]

Stats bring the engine up to operating temp quicker than no stats after that the stats should be wide open to accommodate coolant flow.

Ronnie

[Tom's36coupe]

I have been using steel discs, with a 7/8 hole in them instead of t stats. I like the idea that water is always moving in the motor/radiator. works fine for me.

[cmbrucew]

In the 50's the stock cars used a modified t housing with a zinc washer pressed in with a 5/8 hole in it.
I have heard and read this was not a good idea, don't know why not.

Works good
Lasts long time

[G.M.]

The real reason all the people who used washers is they didn't know before pressure caps the resistance of the 144 radiator tubes which add up to 3.5 square inches of opening were being flooded with 4.5 square inches of water through the large hoses. The water backed up in the tank and maybe 20% + of the coolant was lost and on a hot day the engine over heated. The washers were installed and slowed the water and gave it a little more time to get through the radiator and LESS was pushed out the over flow. Now the engine has a little more water and runs at elevated temperatures but didn't boil over. In the old days an engine wasn't hot until it boiled over. With a 4 lb pressure cap or a 3 lb pressure valve if the radiator wasn't made for a pressure cap the valve seals the coolant from excaping and the coolant is forced though the tubes. The radiator can be filled up into the neck and will stay filled for months. If there is a compression leak this will open the cap or valve and coolant will be lost. These caps have nothing to do with raiseing the boiling point of water like in modern engines they simply seal the water which is below 3 lbs at 205 degrees and open as a safty valve if the pressure builds up. There is no sludge formed running at 165 degrees with Castrol 20/50 and I suppose other oils have the same type additives? I have 108,000 on my 39 over the past 30 years with Castrol from start up and it's clean inside. I also read in one of the Ford manuals that moisture is removed at 135 degrees. Don't forget when the water is 135 the interior parts are much higher. G.M.

[FlatheadTed]

With modern TS if they are made to cool a 4 cylinder with the v8 you have two & two 4s side by side .2x4s .= 8 you would think they would do the job ,I take mine out ,