Sway Bar for Rear

[GeneBob]

Well, curiosity got the better of me. I bought a $40 sway bar off Amazon and fit it into the rear of the Model A. It is snowing so I don't know how it drives yet. I got the Dorman Porducts # 927-159 which is for the back of a Crown Vic if I remember right. It is pretty narrow and smaller diameter for a softer touch.

[Pete]

We have a nomenclature failure here.

That is an anti-roll bar, not a sway bar.

A sway bar can properly be called a track bar also depending on how it is adjusted.

[Big hammer]

Thanks GeneBob for the information!!! I have one coming 11-6, when you get out let us know how it works.
Pete the anti-roll bar is one item that has been called way to many things !

[GeneBob]

OK. I went for a drive around the big block and I added some intentional hard gas leaving the turns. I have to say it made quite a difference. The rear did not drag the car around the turn and the rear tires actually did some side drift (just a tiny bit).
My biggest concern is the u-bolts around the rear axle. I don't know if they have a good grip on the axle tube. I am thinking of adding a feature to make sure they don't start to rotate back and forth depending on the direction of turning.
I went with the lightest duty bar I could find because the car does not weigh very much and I didn't want to over-cure the "sway". For a quick and easy build, I think it is pretty close.

[David in San Antonio]

Thank you for the results report!

[brokenspoke]

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I like this, you might find an exhaust clamp that is a little stronger

[Bruce of MN]

I don't think I'd corner hard enough to appreciate the improvement.

[GeneBob]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I like this, you might find an exhaust clamp that is a little stronger

BrokenSpoke, you make a good suggestion. Exhaust clamps are much stronger on the clamping bridge part. I will look for one big enough to reach around the axle; about 3".

[katy]

Does the rubber "bushing" press tightly against the axle housing?

[GeneBob]

Katy, I put the U-bolt metal bridge in between the rubber bushing and the axle housing. Are you suggesting that the rubber would provide enough friction if I let the bushing contact directly against the housing? Another interesting suggestion from the clever collection of connoisseurs at the Barn! I though the rubber would be too hard but it might work. Thanks!

[Smokedtires]

Maybe try a paint pen to draw a line cross the axle tube and a fixed point to easily see if there is any movement and in what direction.

[GeneBob]

Smokedtires, another good idea. Thanks.
BTW, I just picked up a couple 3" exhaust clamps to swap out with the u-bolts that I had on there.

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Pete

We have a nomenclature failure here.

That is an anti-roll bar, not a sway bar.

A sway bar can properly be called a track bar also depending on how it is adjusted.

That is a sway and/or anti-roll bar. Sway bars attach to the axle and both sides of the frame. They are designed to transfer weight and reduce body roll as the car leans into a turn.

A track (or panhard) bar is a straight bar that goes from the frame to the axle the help keep it centered in the chassis. A Watts link works best for this but they can be complicated and expensive.


https://www.newmarcorp.com/blog/what...a-sway-bar-do/


https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/tr...-4x4-vehicles/


https://www.americanmuscle.com/what-...atts-link.html

[Pete]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

A track (or panhard) bar is a straight bar that goes from the frame to the axle the help keep it centered in the chassis.

A Panhard bar is for reducing suspension side movement in relation to the body. It must be the same height as the centerline of the axle to function properly.
They function when turning in both directions.

A track bar's only purpose is to transfer weight in a circle track race car. They are adjustable and in some cases by the driver while racing.

[Big hammer]

I’am planning on using a muffler clamp on the axle housing, rubber gas line around the U- bolts and flat rubber strips under the tie bar for a temporary install. When everything is tested and working, the clamp tie bar or manufacture a new heavier mount will be welded to the axle housing. That’s my plan for now when the anti-roll bar arrives Thursday

[GeneBob]

Big_hammer, I was wishing I could weld a small flat piece onto the bottom of the axle tube but I don't have the capability. The rubber pieces should protect your axle tube but be aware of the substantial taper of those axle tubes.
I will be trying to install my 3" exhaust clamps later today. I might try to put a taper into the clamp bridge to match the axle tube.

[GeneBob]

OK. I changed to the 3" exhaust clamps and I think this is as good as it gets. General ride is, I think, a little better because the uneven road causes less side to side rocking motion. Going around corners is definitely better; less roll, better feel without being too much, too rough.
Not bad for $40 sway bar plus $17 for the strap (that will be used on future projects as well), and $12 for exhaust clamps. A couple holes drilled, a little spray paint and it is done.

[Big hammer]

Sounds good ! Thanks for your post and findings! Mine arrives tomorrow and I’ll be installing mine this weekend.

[brokenspoke]

Did the exhaust clamp come with the saddle part? if it did you might consider sandwich it between the rubber part and axle housing...

[GeneBob]

Big Hammer,
Note: I could not use the rubber bushing clamps that came with the kit. I used the 1 1/4" X 1/8" strap from Home Depot to make new clamps with hole spacing that matched up to the width of the U-bolt on the exhaust clamp.
Oh, and I made the height of the replacement clamps just a little short so they would compress the rubber bushings by maybe 1/8" when tightened down.