Flathead Newbie Coil Question

[htandb]

Hi All, just been building for years but just got my first flathead V8 and I have what is hopefully an easy question.

I had a beautiful 36 Tudor fall into my lap and I'm converting it to 12V. It's a 21 stud V8 and the kit from Vintage Auto Garage came with a 3 bolt coil adapter. When I went to change it, it turns out I have a 37-41 2 screw coil. That's completely my fault I'll get back with the company.

Here's my question: When I tried to remove the 2 screw coil it came loose but the silver cylinder, that looks like a condenser, was holding the coil in place, the rest of the coil would lift but it was hung up there. Is there a trick to getting it off, I didn't want to mess anything up internally. I've attached a picture of the cap and a couple of the car for good measure. Appreciate the help -
Cheers!

Ryan

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by htandb

Hi All, just been building for years but just got my first flathead V8 and I have what is hopefully an easy question.

I had a beautiful 36 Tudor fall into my lap and I'm converting it to 12V. It's a 21 stud V8 and the kit from Vintage Auto Garage came with a 3 bolt coil adapter. When I went to change it, it turns out I have a 37-41 2 screw coil. That's completely my fault I'll get back with the company.

Here's my question: When I tried to remove the 2 screw coil it came loose but the silver cylinder, that looks like a condenser, was holding the coil in place, the rest of the coil would lift but it was hung up there. Is there a trick to getting it off, I didn't want to mess anything up internally. I've attached a picture of the cap and a couple of the car for good measure. Appreciate the help -
Cheers!

Ryan

The condenser (the silver cylinder) is secured to the body of the distributor with a bolt.
The same bolt used to secure the distributor to the block...

[htandb]

Thanks I'll go back out an take a look, I couldn't see anything from either side and it felt like it was pulling internally when I tried to lift it off.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by htandb

Thanks I'll go back out an take a look, I couldn't see anything from either side and it felt like it was pulling internally when I tried to lift it off.

Unsnap and remove the distributor cap for better access to the bolt.

Also, cut and secure a piece of cardboard to the engine side of the radiator to protect the radiator fins from being smashed/bent while you're working in that area...

[petehoovie]

[GB SISSON]

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Consider a bosch blue super coil for your conversion. That is an extremely handsome car that just fell into your lap. Generally I am no fan of whitewalls, but the ones in your photo look great to me. I have read two types of whitewall threads here. One is 'how do I get my dirty whitewalls back to brilliant white?' , while others describe the use of tea bags to get that vintaged yellowed look ....
'Twas ever thus'

[htandb]

Thanks, we actually found the car at a garage sale, had a 4x6 card on the back window that just said "1936 Ford For Sale". I wasn't planning on buying a car but couldn't pass on it.

I haven't checked the date on the tires yet, they're bias 4 ply Coker, from the color I'd say they've been around a while. The car was rebuilt/ restored sometime before '08, the previous driver passed about 4 years ago and it had been sitting since. It actually belonged to the wife, she just never drove it, that's who I got it from. Unfortunately that's all the history I was able to get on it, there's been some upgrades: sealed beam lights, '40 juice brakes, polymer fuel tank, couple new gauges (oil / temp) under the dash and a battery kill switch. Everything else seems to have been done in a stock fashion.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Another option for a 12V coil would be to send an original 6V two screw type coil to George "Skip" Haney in Punta Gorda, Florida and have him rewind the coil for 12V. I think this is a better option than using some of those poorly designed adaptors and a remote cylindrical type coil.

PS.....congratulations on becoming the owner of a very nice '36 Ford Tudor sedan, and welcome to the Fordbarn. This is a great website for learning about these early Fords.

[htandb]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

The condenser (the silver cylinder) is secured to the body of the distributor with a bolt.
The same bolt used to secure the distributor to the block...

Thanks for the assist, got the coil off with no issues, I appreciate the information. one additional question: my coil is the "newer" 37 - 41 two screw design, when I got it cleaned up I'm not seeing a spacer plate for the retrofit. From what I've read that's indicative of an engine with updated cams, is that correct? It's a 21 stud head with the water inlets at the front.

[petehoovie]

"spacer plate" ??? Got a picture?


Adapter Kit installed as seen below...




Adapter Kit




1937 Ford ignition coil




Side view - adapter plate

[htandb]

Spacer between the distributor and the block. My reading led me to believe that the first gen flathead 8s had longer cams ("long snout") and if you wanted to run a later model distributor you needed a spacer plate... the exception being if the engine had been rebuilt it was likely that shorter cams were installed and no plate was needed. I have a first gen flathead with a 2 screw coil so I assumed that means the cams have been updated at some point.

[petehoovie]

Are you referring to this distributor to camshaft adapter? >
This adapter would be needed if you were trying to install a 1932-41 dizzy on 1942-48 engine...59AB Engine