Hydraulic brake line routing

[blownford]

My '36 has hydraulic brakes that were installed before I owned it. Looks like '37 rear axle, radius rods and torque tube, '39 backing plates, shoes, wheel cylinders etc.
When they converted it, they just used hose clamps to hold the brake lines to the radius rods. I'm trying to clean this up with something that looks a bit more stock.
My question is can anyone tell me the approximate measurement from either end of the radius rod to where the t-fitting, clamps that secure the lines to the radius arms are? Are the brake lines on the inside, outside or top of the radius rods?
Same thing with the parking brake cable, how should it be routed on the radius rod?


Thanks

[Newc]

Third Gen has the clamps and answers. Newc

[glennpm]

Bob Drake has a couple of good diagrams for hydraulic brakes.

[19Fordy]

Here's some photos of my 1940 rear brake lines. Hope they help. I can crawl under the car and get measurements if you desire.

[blownford]

Thanks guys. Exactly what I needed. I can estimate the locations from the pictures.

[19Fordy]

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There are only 2 clamps holding the rear brake lines to each wish bone.
The other clamp is for the E-brake to slide through.

[Flathead Fever]

Notice how they ran the lines down the inside of the radius rods, that protects them from damage. Never run them under a frame or on the outside of the frame where they can get damaged by running over something, especially on a single system. Keep them away from heat too. We had 1994 F-350 4X4 aerial boom trucks that Ford ran the lines so close to the exhaust manifolds that the fluid was turning to a vaper and the trucks were losing their brakes up in the mountains. Fords quick-fix solution was heat-wrap material with snaps to cover the lines. The heat was also going through the disc brake pads and into the calipers as they wore thin and boiling the fluid. Ford came up with insulators that snapped into the caliper pistons. I wanted to see what it felt like to boil brake fluid in these F-350s. I picked a steep, straight highway and road the brakes hard for about a mile to overheat them and sure enough one second, I had a firm pedal and the next the pedal was swinging like it wasn't attached to the master cylinder, no resistance at all, not a good feeling. Then within a couple seconds the brakes pedal pressure instantly returned. It never got spongy, it was either good or completely gone,

[blownford]

Thanks again 19Fordy. In your picture #3, is that the center torque tube bearing just in front of the 4X4? If so, I think that's the first time I have actually seen the bearing. It's bigger than I envisioned.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by blownford

Thanks again 19Fordy. In your picture #3, is that the center torque tube bearing just in front of the 4X4? If so, I think that's the first time I have actually seen the bearing. It's bigger than I envisioned.

[blownford]

Ok, 2 clamps per side and the parking brake cable guide.
I'm assuming the V in the rubber cable guide goes up against the bottom of the radius rod and the cable goes through the slot. The cable assembly I have is one already assembled in one piece. How do you get the cable, spring and boot through the slot?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by blownford

Ok, 2 clamps per side and the parking brake cable guide.
I'm assuming the V in the rubber cable guide goes up against the bottom of the radius rod and the cable goes through the slot. The cable assembly I have is one already assembled in one piece. How do you get the cable, spring and boot through the slot?

[Zeke3]

On my 1937 hydraulic brake conversion, the bolt that holds the tee fitting on the left side radius rod is 3 3/4" rearward of the weld joint at the front of the rod and the hole is oriented vertically as shown in the picture posted by 19Fourdy.