door stuck shut

[DaveBPT]

While replacing door latch on the drivers door on a Victoria and adjusting mechanism on the body, the door is now stuck shut. Any suggestion?

[KULTULZ]

SOMETIMES, if you lean into the door gently while holding the button in it will pop open.

If the inside release won't do it ... ... (It might get ugly ...)

[scicala]

If worse comes to worse, you might be able to remove the door panel to get at the latch without removing the front seat.

Sal

[DaveBPT]

Thanks for the assist. I could reach the latch from inside the car. Small taps on the wheel broke it loose and door opened. My lucky day!!

[Daves55Sedan]

I find it easy to get an accurate adjustment without any trouble like you are having by having the striker plate screws snugged down enough that it will stay in place with the door open, but will not fall down. Swing the door close to the latch and get a long screwdriver to push the striker plate up or down as needed so that the guide on the latch side goes into the slot where the spring-loaded nylon bumper is. Once you get the height adjusted like this, close the door, but don't slam it or the striker may be pushed back too far. If the door is out too far compared to the edge of the right side of the doorjamb, try to push the door inward till it does match. Open the door and tighten the three screws on the striker. If the door closes inward to far initially, pull outward on the outside door handle till the door matches with the jamb. Open the door and tighten striker screws.

[miker98038]

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I go thru what Dave suggests almost every year. There was a rough fiber gasket (think sandpaper) between striker and the door. My car is missing those (and I’ve been too lazy). So every year they drift a bit and I have to reset them. Can’t get them tight enough without them.

[Daves55Sedan]

Miker, if you are missing the asbestos fibre cement gasket between striker plate and jamb, you can cut out a flat rubber pad and it will work just as good. but you'd need to get an atomic screwdriver to tighten/loosen the screws. If your car has the hourglass head screws, the special hourglass screwdriver will suffice, but if they are the phillips-head screws, get the biggest phillips screwdriver you can find.
I think you can still buy new composite gaskets from some of the repro parts suppliers, but I don't know if their anti-slip ability is any good.

[chain drive]

the hourglass screws are called clutch head have fun

[Lamar Wadsworth]

Haven't encountered the clutch head screws on Ozelle the '55 Ford. It has Phillips head screws, and I have a really big Phillips screwdriver that I don't remember ever using for anything other than adjusting the striker plates on Ozelle. Did the clutch head screws come out in the '56 model year? Running change during a model run? Ozelle came out of the Memphis plant 7/21/55.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by Lamar Wadsworth

Did the clutch head screws come out in the '56 model year? Running change during a model run? Ozelle came out of the Memphis plant 7/21/55.

My '55 had the hourglass (ok, clutch-head screws) on all four door strikers when I got it in '72 and it had never had one thing done to it. I've seen many '55's with the original clutch-head screws, but some with the Phillips screws. I always thought that it depended upon which body plant assembled the car.
you may have also noticed that some cars have the "flying-saucer" hood, trunk, door and fender bolts, while others have the plain bolts with serrated washers, although, the bolts & washers may have been a carryover from previous years, but may have been a variation from fastener availability at assembly plants. Both types were used in '55.

[DaveBPT]

OK. I have been able to adjust the door --- mostly. It still sticks. I have noted that I need shims for the striker. It seems that the latch may be what is sticking. I bought an aftermarket latch. Are they known to be a problem??

[Daves55Sedan]

Be careful that you are not putting too many shims behind the striker, as it may cause the door to get caught up on the striker. Look at the wear spot on the top of the guide surface of the striker. If there is a wear mark on that surface that is too close to the door jamb itself, you may be bottoming out your door on the outer striker surface.
As far as the latch goes, if you push the outer door handle button in and release it, the button should pop back out. If it doesn't you have a broken spring. Replacement springs can be purchased from most of the repro parts suppliers. Another thing that can happen to these latches is the star-wheel can become loose in the latch housing. I have repaired a few using a long flat punch and hammer and in some cases, welding of the star-wheel hub on the backside may be in order. Lubriplate all moving parts on backside of the latch and lubriplate the teeth on your striker plate. If you can make repairs to the old latch mechanism, you won't need to find out how crappy the chinese made junk is.

[Adriatic Machine]

The latch on my 59’ was really tricky. It felt like the door was shut but it would fly open when I least expected it! After cracking the window from slamming the door I figured it was overdue for an adjustment