21253 rad hoses for a 36

[36coupe]

I’m using 21253 gates hoses plus reducers for the 81a in the 36 5w.
Installed Subaru stats above the heads with a piece of hose inside to hold them in place with a heavy tie wrap on the outside. Rad mounted on the bottom on the rear holes. When I attach everything the rad is pulled to far back and the fan is way to close to the fins. I do have cardboard protecting the fins right now. I even put a shorter belt on and the generator is as low as it can go. I think I have a 35 intake and 36 generator.
Before I cut the hoses and install a pipe spacer is there something I’m doing wrong?

[deuce lover]

The '37-38 intake has a lower gen mount.Here is a pic of one

[Lawson Cox]

Fan blades should be 1/2" to 1" from the radiator.

[36coupe]

The height isn't a problem as I have at least an inch above the blades.
It’s hard to see in the pictures but when the hoses are connected the blade is hard against the cardboard at the top and an inch away at the bottom and the blade is not centred in the recess at the top of the radiator. I have a 56” belt on there now.
The early intakes are about 1-1/4” higher at the generator mount

[Mart]

Is it just that while some people have been able to use these hoses in various early Fords, they don't seem to be quite working in your particular case? After all, they are not a hose made specifically for that application, just one that someone has found worked for them in the past.
I might be reading it wrong, but that is what occurred to me.
That said, what happens if you only fit the one on the head that is furthest forward? Would it just be a case of extending the one on the rearmost mounted head?

Mart.

[36coupe]

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Originally Posted by Mart

Is it just that while some people have been able to use these hoses in various early Fords, they don't seem to be quite working in your particular case? After all, they are not a hose made specifically for that application, just one that someone has found worked for them in the past.
I might be reading it wrong, but that is what occurred to me.
That said, what happens if you only fit the one on the head that is furthest forward? Would it just be a case of extending the one on the rearmost mounted head?

Mart.

I have had the radiator off and on a dozen times. To centre the fan blades in the cutout at the top of the radiator the hoses are too short.
Are the water outlets not in the same place on each head?
I have been trying each side.
If I pull the rad back to hook up the hoses the bottom of the blade is almost 2” away from the core and the top is touching
I won’t know the perfect position of the radiator until the body is on the car and the rods hooked up. I want to Fill everything with antifreeze and run the engine.

[cas3]

If its the first time running I suggest filling it with water first in case there are any leaks. Much easier to clean up

[TJ]

Are you setting this up without using the center hood hinge? That determines the distance of the fan from the radiator. I don't see it in your photos.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by cas3

If its the first time running I suggest filling it with water first in case there are any leaks. Much easier to clean up

Good advise thanks
It never donned on me that one head is 1-1/4 further forward until I thought about the rods on the crank.
The bottom of the fan is farther away from the rad than the top which might be how it was designed, I don’t have any reference
I’m almost wondering if the rear of the transmission is too high. I changed to a 37 transmission mount as that is what the year of the transmission. I took a 39 transmission bracket and put it in the 36 frame. Same biscuit mounts as the engine has.
I don’t think that would really effect it that much

[36coupe]

So thanks to Mart I realized the to sides are not equal distance apart from the radiator to water outlet. I cut the hoses and installed a piece of 1-3/4 exhaust pipe. Adjusted so the fan blades will be centred in the recess in the top of the radiator. I’m happy with the clearance. I’ll get some new clamps tomorrow and tighten it down. I am waiting on the 3/8 x 5/8 adapters so I can hook up two temperature gauges.
Question: How do the 2 early electric temp probes work? Will they only work with a ford gauge or will they work with a S&W gauge?
Getting closer.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by TJ

Are you setting this up without using the center hood hinge? That determines the distance of the fan from the radiator. I don't see it in your photos.

No body on the frame. I realize that might change a bunch once I installed the top rods.
I am thinking of buying a couple feet of stainless 1.75” tubing the next time I’m in the city and install 10” or so on each side.
Trying to install everything with no stress on the radiator fittings

[deuce lover]

Originally Posted by 36coupe

So thanks to Mart I realized the to sides are not equal distance apart from the radiator to water outlet. I cut the hoses and installed a piece of 1-3/4 exhaust pipe. Adjusted so the fan blades will be centred in the recess in the top of the radiator. I’m happy with the clearance. I’ll get some new clamps tomorrow and tighten it down. I am waiting on the 3/8 x 5/8 adapters so I can hook up two temperature gauges.
Question: How do the 2 early electric temp probes work? Will they only work with a ford gauge or will they work with a S&W gauge?
Getting closer.

When you first asked about temp gauge adapters you said they were for "Mechanical " gauges.Now you say for electric. Those elec temp probes I believe are NPT.So all you need is a NPT adapter/reducer.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

When you first asked about temp gauge adapters you said they were for "Mechanical " gauges.Now you say for electric. Those elec temp probes I believe are NPT.So all you need is a NPT adapter/reducer.

I’m waiting for the mechanical adaptors to arrive. I want to run 2 mechanical temperature gauges just because I can.
I have a bunch of the later electric temp probes but only S&W gauges. Thought I could fill the holes, hook up an electric gauge and run the engine up to operating temperature and do a few heat cycles. Yes I realize the probes are 3/8 NPT.
Not trying to confuse things too much.

[36coupe]

This is what I came up with concerning electric temp probes. I’ll play with them and a S&W gauge and see what I get
Left unit (2 terminals) is essentially an idiot light switch: normally closed, opens at boiling cutting off the circuit and pegging the gauge. Right one with single post works the gauge otherwise, the smaller the current the higher the gauge reading

[Mart]

Just a note re running the engine in the chassis. Not recommended. Better to wait until the car can be driven and drive it under load straight away. If you do start it just run for 20 mins or so at a very fast idle. "running through a few heaty cycles" is probably what you don't want to do. I ran a motor in my 32 chassis with fresh bores and glazed them up good. I had to pull the motor down and rehone ("glazebust") the cylinders to stop it smoking.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by Mart

Just a note re running the engine in the chassis. Not recommended. Better to wait until the car can be driven and drive it under load straight away. If you do start it just run for 20 mins or so at a very fast idle. "running through a few heaty cycles" is probably what you don't want to do. I ran a motor in my 32 chassis with fresh bores and glazed them up good. I had to pull the motor down and rehone ("glazebust") the cylinders to stop it smoking.

Okay that was going to be my next post. I was thinking of running it up and down my driveway maybe to the end of the road. I had a few head bolts weeping as I filled the radiator but they all sealed up once I started the engine. I used a heat gun had it running on a high idle and worked it up and down in revs. It got up to about 150f.

A friend told me of a story years ago where he rebuilt an engine for a K car and it wouldn’t stop smoking. His father was an old mechanic told him to dump 1 teaspoon Comet powdered cleaner down the carburetor. It scuffed up the cylinder walls and the car stopped smoking. He might have also told him to run non detergent oil for the break in period. That was 40 years ago.

[swedishsteel]

The radiator position is determined by the hood, as stated above. You must have the body on and use the support rods from radiator to firewall to get the radiator right. The hood, grill, inner fenders and fenders all work together and need to be together loosely all at the same time to get everything right. To be blunt, you are wasting your time at this stage trying to get correct clearance. Good luck.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by swedishsteel

The radiator position is determined by the hood, as stated above. You must have the body on and use the support rods from radiator to firewall to get the radiator right. The hood, grill, inner fenders and fenders all work together and need to be together loosely all at the same time to get everything right. To be blunt, you are wasting your time at this stage trying to get correct clearance. Good luck.

I realize how it all goes together. It sounds like you have assembled a 36 before so you realize that there is a very small amount of movement in relation to the radiator and the generator fan. What I have done is a change to check clearances and fix any leaks (I had a few). I’m thinking once the body is on and fitting the fenders, grill there might be 1” forward to aft adjustment at the most before the generator blades hit.
I hate to rebuild an engine and then leave it sit. My wasted time I got to hear a 255 rumble through dual exhaust.

[swedishsteel]

Didn't mean you shouldn't fire it up and break it in, just meant it is impossible to determine the relationship between rad/fan/pumps etc. without the body and associated sheet metal on. Good luck.