The Ford Barn

SoCalCoupe · 02-11-2022, 06:40 PM

Chasing down electrical gremlins, I've taken advice from another thread and decided to replace the generator brushes and springs and clean up the commutator. In another thread someone recommended replacing the bushing and bearing while I had it apart.

I have it apart but can't figure out how to replace either. The bushing is pressed into the cover and there's no back side to remove. Looks like I need some mystery tool to get under the bushing and pull it out.

The bearing is held between the armature shaft and the generator bracket. Looks like the pulley is screwed onto the shaft and I need to unscrew it. Can't see how to do that without destroying the armature by squeezing it in a vise or big set of pliers.

Help!

Kube · 02-11-2022, 06:46 PM

I can offer a little "hands on" help.
You can hold the armature in your vise without harming it. I place rubber (about 3/16" thick) on both sides. You'll find the pulley is not very tight and as such, you don't need to tighten the vise much more than the force a pair of strong hands would apply.
Once the armature is free of the front plate, the bearing is easily removed. You'll see that right away.
I've never replaced the bushing as I have a stock of NOS end plates. Sorry i can't help ya there.

Crankster · 02-11-2022, 07:53 PM

What works real slick for generator plate bushings is to run a suitable tap into it, as it gets turned in it will drive it right out easy as pie. (Making pie can actually be pretty involved…)

koates · 02-11-2022, 08:20 PM

Dont replace the bronze generator bush unless it has some NOTICEABLE side movement or wear. Just lube it inside with some engine oil and work the oil into the bush with your finger. The pulley should be unscrewed off the threaded armature shaft after first removing the circular circlip from the grove in the very end of the armature shaft. Hold the armature in the vice using some soft jaws so as not to mark the armature. Then unscrew the round collar in the end bracket which has four notches, but be very careful here because that collar is only die cast and can be easily damaged and they are somewhat hard to come by new ones. There was a special tool to unscrew those without doing damage. Then the bearing and dust felt and cover washer should come out. If you cant do that all correctly then dont butcher it up but take it to a good auto electrical shop who are wiling to do the job. Regards, Kevin.

koates · 02-11-2022, 08:33 PM

Oh, I forgot that there is also a circlip that locates the collar to stop it unscrewing which has to be removed first. Regards, Kevin.

SoCalCoupe · 02-11-2022, 08:40 PM

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Gentlemen: Those pulley and bushing tricks worked pretty easily, much to my surprise. I put the armature between my knees and unscrewed the pulley with my hands, no vise. The bushing came out with a tap with one extra step. When the tap was all the way in, it turned the bushing rather than pulled it out. I put the tap in a vise and turned and pulled the cover off of the bushing.

Kevin, yes the bushing had some side play I didn't like. The new bushing is in.

New question: how do I lubricate the bearing? The bushing I get, the oil drip hole, but not the bearing.

koates · 02-11-2022, 09:06 PM

Well depends what bearing you are fitting. A double sealed or shielded bearing is factory lubed and requires no further lubing. What type of bearing came out of the gen. Regards, Kevin.

SoCalCoupe · 02-12-2022, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koates

Well depends what bearing you are fitting. A double sealed or shielded bearing is factory lubed and requires no further lubing. What type of bearing came out of the gen. Regards, Kevin.

Great questions. I plead ignorance. Here are pics of the old and new bearings. The old bearing is stamped "Romania". I'll bet 50 cents of my own money this isn't an original 1941 part.

koates · 02-12-2022, 01:51 AM

Provided both sides of your bearing have the crimped in metal seal. then no outside lubrication is required. Most of these old generators have been overhauled several times so far in their lifetimes and the bearings changed. Originals had Ford marked bearings in many cases. Regards, Kevin.

Terry,OH · 02-12-2022, 12:00 PM

You did not say what year generator. Early generators have felt seals on both sides of the old open bearing. There are thin special washers that hold the felt washers in place. It is good to reuse the thin washers and C-clip that hold the bearing from moving in or out as well as the C-clip which fits in a recess on the front cover. Best to look at a Chassis parts manual.

jimvette59 · 02-13-2022, 11:59 AM

Koates I think that is a shielded bearing and not a sealed bearing and should not be used in dusty or dirty environments. Either use a sealed both sides # would Have ZZ --302 bearing or a original setup that used oil and a open bearing and felt dust shields. JMO

02-11-2022, 06:40 PM	#1
SoCalCoupe Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Point Loma, San Diego, CA Posts: 531	Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Chasing down electrical gremlins, I've taken advice from another thread and decided to replace the generator brushes and springs and clean up the commutator. In another thread someone recommended replacing the bushing and bearing while I had it apart. I have it apart but can't figure out how to replace either. The bushing is pressed into the cover and there's no back side to remove. Looks like I need some mystery tool to get under the bushing and pull it out. The bearing is held between the armature shaft and the generator bracket. Looks like the pulley is screwed onto the shaft and I need to unscrew it. Can't see how to do that without destroying the armature by squeezing it in a vise or big set of pliers. Help!

02-11-2022, 06:46 PM	#2
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 9,856	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement I can offer a little "hands on" help. You can hold the armature in your vise without harming it. I place rubber (about 3/16" thick) on both sides. You'll find the pulley is not very tight and as such, you don't need to tighten the vise much more than the force a pair of strong hands would apply. Once the armature is free of the front plate, the bearing is easily removed. You'll see that right away. I've never replaced the bushing as I have a stock of NOS end plates. Sorry i can't help ya there. __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

02-11-2022, 07:53 PM	#3
Crankster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 563	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement What works real slick for generator plate bushings is to run a suitable tap into it, as it gets turned in it will drive it right out easy as pie. (Making pie can actually be pretty involved…)

02-11-2022, 08:20 PM	#4
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,185	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Dont replace the bronze generator bush unless it has some NOTICEABLE side movement or wear. Just lube it inside with some engine oil and work the oil into the bush with your finger. The pulley should be unscrewed off the threaded armature shaft after first removing the circular circlip from the grove in the very end of the armature shaft. Hold the armature in the vice using some soft jaws so as not to mark the armature. Then unscrew the round collar in the end bracket which has four notches, but be very careful here because that collar is only die cast and can be easily damaged and they are somewhat hard to come by new ones. There was a special tool to unscrew those without doing damage. Then the bearing and dust felt and cover washer should come out. If you cant do that all correctly then dont butcher it up but take it to a good auto electrical shop who are wiling to do the job. Regards, Kevin.

02-11-2022, 08:33 PM	#5
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,185	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Oh, I forgot that there is also a circlip that locates the collar to stop it unscrewing which has to be removed first. Regards, Kevin.

02-11-2022, 08:40 PM	#6
SoCalCoupe Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Point Loma, San Diego, CA Posts: 531	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Gentlemen: Those pulley and bushing tricks worked pretty easily, much to my surprise. I put the armature between my knees and unscrewed the pulley with my hands, no vise. The bushing came out with a tap with one extra step. When the tap was all the way in, it turned the bushing rather than pulled it out. I put the tap in a vise and turned and pulled the cover off of the bushing. Kevin, yes the bushing had some side play I didn't like. The new bushing is in. New question: how do I lubricate the bearing? The bushing I get, the oil drip hole, but not the bearing.

02-11-2022, 09:06 PM	#7
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,185	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Well depends what bearing you are fitting. A double sealed or shielded bearing is factory lubed and requires no further lubing. What type of bearing came out of the gen. Regards, Kevin.

02-12-2022, 01:51 AM	#9
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,185	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Provided both sides of your bearing have the crimped in metal seal. then no outside lubrication is required. Most of these old generators have been overhauled several times so far in their lifetimes and the bearings changed. Originals had Ford marked bearings in many cases. Regards, Kevin.

02-12-2022, 12:00 PM	#10
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 5,188	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement You did not say what year generator. Early generators have felt seals on both sides of the old open bearing. There are thin special washers that hold the felt washers in place. It is good to reuse the thin washers and C-clip that hold the bearing from moving in or out as well as the C-clip which fits in a recess on the front cover. Best to look at a Chassis parts manual.

02-13-2022, 11:59 AM	#11
jimvette59 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Perry OH Posts: 1,369	Re: Generator Bearing and Bushing replacement Koates I think that is a shielded bearing and not a sealed bearing and should not be used in dusty or dirty environments. Either use a sealed both sides # would Have ZZ --302 bearing or a original setup that used oil and a open bearing and felt dust shields. JMO