What happens in a transmission rebuild - Part 9

[Mac VP]

LINK TO ORIGINAL POST:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278347

Once again, this thread will be set up into several sections. We are beginning to assemble the main gearbox for the transmission. First, we apply some of our wonderful assembly grease to the front thrust surface of the countershaft area. This is where you stick the B-7119 front countershaft washer. Fit the protruding tab into the groove (oil channel) and press it against the grease.

Then we take the loaded cluster gear (with the two caged roller bearings, the inner spacer tube, and the rear thrust washer) and set it down into the case so that it rests against the bottom. If we were using the other type cluster gear with the two prongs on the back end, we would apply the thick washer against the prongs of the gear. Then after dropping the gear into place, we would fit the second thinner rear washer into place (between the thick washer and the rear surface of the gearbox case).

My photos are slightly out of synch here, but at this point we stand the gearbox up vertically on the work bench. I took this photo earlier so you don't see the main drive gear and bearing fitted to the front of the gearbox. We created a spot on the wood bench, with a 2-1/2" diameter opening, in order to be able to stand the transmission up in a vertical setup. The drive gear pokes down thru the opening in the bench. I have placed reinforcing wood below, including a 4x4" post to allow the bench to handle all the weight of a fully assembled transmission in this fashion. You can also stand the gearbox on a couple 4x4 wood blocks to raise it up enough to clear the main drive gear but that also raises the job higher on the worker.

Now we see the cluster gear inside the case, and we are going to install the reverse idler gear next (large shoulder facing to the front). Fit the small idler shaft into the case. This can be a push fit or a much tighter fit in the bore. I like a snug fit and sometimes have to place a drop of oil on the shaft and twist it into place with a drift punch. Locate the gear at the opening as you work the shaft down through the idler gear.

Align the lockpin hole in the idler shaft so that the lockpin can be fitted easily through the pin. Test fit with the lockpin…..if it isn't close to a perfect fit, pull up the idler shaft and try it again until you get the easy fit of the lockpin.