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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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I will be using a helmet dizzy on my C59/69A flathead. With all the recent threads on associated machines to adjust points/dwell etc. I'm even more confused if this is something I should even attempt. I feel I could complete the rebuild without issue, but the issue of properly adjusting it bothers me especially on a freshly rebuilt engine. Engine is stk heads, intake, carb, crank, stk pistons (0.060"), with an Isky 1007B profile cam. What say the experts?
Last edited by Ziggster; 01-07-2020 at 05:47 PM. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,394
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Sure go ahead. What year helmet or are you going to use a crab? If you don't like to get your hands dirty you can send it out, but you can learn a lot doing it yourself.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McMinnville, TN
Posts: 2,468
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I think you surely can. Likely without a fixture and/or machine the dwell or timing will be off a smidge, but will still likely run just fine. We (refering mostly to myself) get way too technical on these old distributors and strive to make things perfect when in reality if the dwell or timing is off a degree or two it will still run just fine. At worse case scenario, rebuild it yourself completely (as in don't just sling points in it) and have someone with a timing fixture and sun machine set it up for you. The cost for that would be minimal
They are fun and incredibly easy to rebuild and you will enjoy it. |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,229
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I agree. I went completely through mine on the original '41 Merc engine and it was not a big deal. Just be gentle and take your time with anything that's a bit stuck or corroded,clean it all up and lube it, adjust the points with a feeler gauge and reinstall it. Like Mike said above...easy to get too picky when it'll work great with careful work and normal tools.
Terry p.s. Buy good parts!
__________________
"It don't take but country smarts to solve the problem" (Smokey Yunick) '30 Model A Speedster '41 Merc Town Sedan / 260" 8CM engine '66 Fairlane four door / "warmed up" 302
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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Here is a pic of my helmet dizzy. Coil hsg is cracked at one of the mounting screw ears. Appears someone added some sort of goop to seal it.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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There is a number "5" and what looks like an "S" cast or engraved in the rear plate.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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There is the number "3" also cast or engraved in the bottom of the hsg.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,394
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You have the 37-41 helmet distributor. I would suggest going to Skip Haney for a replacement coil. He rebuilds originals to better than original and also a new condenser tested by himself. Ford did not cast the body of the distributor but had about 3 different suppliers that for identification cast their Ford identification number in each. the numbers. All of the 37-41 distributors use the same settings and inter changeable internal and external parts. In 41 there was a change to the advance weights and advance plate allowing the advance to come in slightly sooner and slightly more about 2 degrees. The 41 advance plate is marked 11A-xxxx for the modified advance which is considered slightly better.
Last edited by Terry,OH; 01-08-2020 at 08:07 AM. |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SPEEDWAY INDIANA
Posts: 4,148
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Yep do it yourself ike the others have stated.
Heres a Bubba video with some tips etc, if ya have a problem feel free to email ( I hate the phone) me or Mike . And buy the Echlin CS47 point sets from NAPA.. ![]() ![]() https://aviondemand.wistia.com/medias/expa13egyr |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 1,137
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If you are even thinking about it, do it.
Use caution pulling the internals out of the housing. You may have to soak the insides with penetrating oil and even carefully warm up the housing with a propane torch. Be careful with hammers! Bubba has a long relationship with hammers ... he's not being as casual as it appears.
__________________
"Remember that when it comes to intelligence, half of all of us are below average." |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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Thanks to everyone one for the advice and encouragement. I now know I made the right decision to use the helmet. I did some late night reading on sevetal threads on here, HAMB, and EFV-8 about the helmet, and it's history. It was fascinating reading, and it seems there was a bit of industrial intrigue behind the scenes with Ford, Mallory, and Zoerlein. How to I get in touch with Skip?
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McMinnville, TN
Posts: 2,468
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I like the helmet with 11a guts better than the infamous crab distributor. It performs essentially the exact same. Be sure you check the upper bushing they are commonly worn and there is a trick to removing it than allows you to remove it in less than 20 seconds
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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Go for it! You want to become a expert on your car. Do everything to learn except something that requires a 10 ton press, then send that out to be done. Ha Ha.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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10 ton press? That's for kids. Lol...
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 1,373
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I see mine has 68 stamped on the drive end. Checked my crab and couldn't see anything on the back of it.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McMinnville, TN
Posts: 2,468
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The crab ones, are not stamped. But they are the same as a 11A helmet.. Converting your to a 11A is a easy and worthwhile task.
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