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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: East Canton, OH
Posts: 168
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My '30 A ran fine last year with a new heavy duty radiator - gauge stayed in the middle green. Starting up this summer it wants to run right at or a tad over the red line. How come? I didn't think I needed to do a flush and refill every spring and may try that if necessary. Got any ideas that might cause the higher temp other than that?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: (Old)Shasta (Redding) CA
Posts: 388
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Fan belt?
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,430
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I was just reading about running hot after the cooling system has been overhauled. It article stated to lean or to rich of fuel mixture will cause your engine to run hot. Also it stated that a retarted or to advanced timing will also cause it to run hot. This article was on a hot rod site.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Running too little points gap will make it run hot . Check your points gap . Too little points gap retards . Ford specs were .018 to .022 . Eighteen thousants is right on the edge of having to re set . I generally run mine on .022 but not a thousant more .
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,556
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Not querying your view Purdy, but why would a too small points gap cause it to run hot. (assuming the hand timing lever is used correctly) ... I can belief that a closed points gap might cause the coil to get marginally warmer as the points would be in contact longer but why would it affect the engine running temp?
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,712
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Coolant level?
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,968
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all good point so far,
are you running coolant or water? Could of had rust flakes break free and clog the radiator.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 1,977
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Check your gauge. You never know.
With Model A’s, it sometime can be the simplest of things. Enjoy. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,556
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That's the problem with temp gauges and oil pressure gauges- just another thing to worry about
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 656
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failing Coils and Condensers can cause over heating. A partially clogged tail pipe can also cause engines to run above normal. A good flush can't hurt. Ernie
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#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,712
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 971
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Every morning after the first cup of coffee.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midland Park,N.J.
Posts: 1,108
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check the actual coolant temp. with thermometer to determine if it is overheating,160 deg.is normal and efficient.
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Tocumwal, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,817
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The fix is easy. Simply remove the glass from the gauge and bend the needle a little.
That allows the driver run cooler too. |
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#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Birch Bay WA
Posts: 190
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I have a 160 degree thermostat, upon parking the car after a run, I use my wife's meat thermometer to check the water temperature. I am very surprised to see a consistent temperature of 170 degrees. I flushed the rad, use straight water along with water wetter. Have you tried an external way of checking the temperature other than relying on a gauge. Gerry Allen, Birch Bay WA |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 1,977
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You may get a higher temperature at the top of radiator.
Siphon effect on engine coolant starts at around 180 degrees at top water outlet under water pump. Inlet at bottom of engine should be around 160 degrees. This is all plus or minus depending on a number of things. Condition of radiator, coolant passages in engine, water pump, fan, outside temperature, water or antifreeze, whatever. Depending on the condition of your engine you could have hot spots. If these spots get to hot, coolant will boil inside engine block. Steam instead of coolant in water passages will cause a lack of cooling. Oil flash on cylinder walls and possible engine failure could follow. The Model A’s engine is designed to run in the 160 to 170 degree range. You need the siphon effect, moves more water than the pump. Remember the Model T, no water pump, just siphon. Your complete cooling system must be 100% or you will have problems. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Sunrise Beach, Mo
Posts: 439
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I read some funny stuff here but......I would take the suggestions of making sure the water pump is spinning and then take off the radiator cap and check actual water temp!
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#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 1,977
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Read a post I made last week on this forum. It’s a cooling system presentation done for The Rocky Mountain Model A Club. It could really answer a lot of your questions. Under, Good info on cooling system. Sorry, I just saw that you read it. Enjoy. Best regards, Bill |
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#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Sunrise Beach, Mo
Posts: 439
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