|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 332
|
![]()
Hello,
Am re-installing the torque tube on my 37. I bought a gasket and cork seal ahead of time and now have some questions. The gasket has 6 holes to line up with the bolt pattern of the rear end assembly where the tube mounts. Should I use gasket sealer (e.g. permatex) or just use it dry? The six bolt heads have holes drilled in them. Are lock washers supposed to be used? Or just torque the bolts and wire the heads together? If the latter, what is the torque spec? The cork seal is 1/4" x 3/8" x 11". Where the heck does this go? In the torque tube end that bolts to the rearend, there appears to be a slight relief about 7/16" wide inside the tube end. Sorry, hard to describe. Does the seal go there? It doesn't seem like it would be very effective at sealing anything. In any case, if the seal goes there, should I use a sealer? or leave it dry. Thanks for the help. If there are any other things I should be addressing, please put 'em on the table. This is my first time working on the rearend/torque tube area. Gregg |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,044
|
![]()
I am pretty sure the 1940 rear end torque tube set up is the same as yours. There is no specific torque for those bolts that hold the rear of the torque tube to the banjo. Just make them tight, but don't force them. Remember, there is no direct load on them. Also, do not try to "clean up" those threads with a tap and die as the thread tolerance is "special" from Ford to prevent leaks. If you can, install those bolts in the same holes they came out of. If you can't do that, start then very gently by hand and make sure they are not cross threaded. I used non hardening Permatex on those bolts and also on the paper gasket between the torque tube and the banjo.
Originally those bolts just had a piece of wire running through each bolt head and then twisted after the last bolt. This is shown in the very last photo. I safety wired them upon assembly. I am sure Mr. Ford wasn't going to slow the line down and up the cost by today's safety wiring standards. 8th photo shows modern safety wiring, Don't know if this is acceptable if you are building a concourse restoration 100 pt. car. That 11 in. long cork seal fits inside the clam shell coupling at the front of the torque tube. The only seal at the banjo end of the torque tube is the paper seal with the bolt holes. I would not use the cork seal as it tends to leak from my experience. I used the neoprene O-Ring style seal sold on ebay. It's shown in 9th and 10th photos. You cut it to size and be very patient when installing. It also comes with the 2 needed paper gaskets. DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL THEM BEFORE YOU HOOK UP YOUR TORQUE TUBE UNIVERSAL JOINT TO THE TRANSMISSION SPLINE. If you do forget, you will have to cut the paper gaskets. I used non-hardening Permatex on those gaskets. Fill the clamshell with John Deere Corn head grease when you're done Photo 11. Takes about 2 tubes. Remove the turtle with the speedo gear before filling so you can see when the clamshell is full. I had to remove the speedo turtle sheel, First, before sliding the rear back. The grease fitting for filling the clam shell is on the bottom of the clam shell cover on the 40. 37 is probably the same. If you so desire, you could drill and tap the upper clam shell pieces for another grease fitting, but it's not a must do thing. While you have your torque tube apart you might want to replace the oil seal (4245) that rests against the bearing at the front of the torque tube. Some folks also replace the bearing (4645), but I would not as repros might be low quality like the repro wheel bearings being imported these days. The 40 torque tube also has a rubber encased center bearing shown in 2nd photo. Don't know if 37 has that item. If it doesn't you are in luck. It's shown in photo 12. If your 37 has this bearing chances are it should be replaced since you have the torque tube out anyway. The one shown is OEM but replacements are available from a Fordbarner in FL. Also check the tightness of the pins used to hold your rear end splined coupler in place (Photo 14). If they are tight, let them be. When you reassemble your torque tube to the banjo, be sure the little U shaped notch (Photo 1) on the torque tube lines up with the return gear oil hole in the banjo flange. See photo 13 with pencil point. When you do all this, if needed, be sure to take plenty of photos. Remember my car is a 40 so it may be a bit different. Those who have a 37 will know more. Clamshell o ring seal info. is below. More questions? Just post them on Fordbarn. My thinking is that while you have the torque tube out replace all the parts that might be worn as you only want to do this entire operation once in this lifetime. Hope this helps. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...hell+ring+seal Last edited by 19Fordy; 03-31-2018 at 06:49 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 332
|
![]()
Whoa, what a treasure trove of information, it is much appreciated. Let me digest all this and see what differences, if any, there are between 37 and 40.
I will be back and post pictures of progress. gregg |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: sw minnesota
Posts: 4,617
|
![]()
that about sums it up for sure!! no difference in the years, all the same
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 332
|
![]() Quote:
Thanks for the confirmation. I don't have anything forward of the torque tube. Need a flathead, tranny and everything else that is required to connect up to the torque tube. Lots of learning to do... gregg |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: sw minnesota
Posts: 4,617
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,534
|
![]()
1937 to 1940 rear axles are pretty much all the same externally. The difference lies in pinion spline count, spider gear and axle tooth count, and type of brakes installed, ie mechanical or hydraulic.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 332
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,044
|
![]()
Click on your name 1937sedandelivery. Then click on View Public Profile and make changes.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 332
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|