Shortening a '34 Torque tube to fit a stock late scalloped '32 rear axle-Stock frame?

[Tex]

Guys, I have searched the forums for the exact answer to this question numerous times and I keep getting a bunch of different measurements. I have a late '32 rear axle ( scalloped flange style) that is missing the drive shaft and torque tube but luckily I have the original '34 tube and drive shaft from my coupe that was converted to open drive so I hope to use it once it is shortened to the correct length.

Since I don't have a lathe I would like take my '34 torque tube and driveshaft to a machine shop and tell them to make it this length______ but what is that length?

Some people say take about 8 1/2 " out of a '34 torque tube but what is the total length and do you shorten the driveshaft the same amount because I have seen measurements showing the stock driveshaft are like almost 2 inches shorter than the tube and that is a big difference. Should they be shortened the same amount?

So does anyone know what the exact length of the late '32 Scalloped end torque tube and drive shaft from someone that has one and can verify the measurement because I have heard it is different than the earlier round flange torque tubes?

I appreciate all your help in advance!!

[Andy]

Where are you? I just went thru shortening a 40 tube and driveshaft and have some tools. The 34 center section is longer than a 32 early. I can measure the early 32 tube but you would need to measure the difference in center sections and subtract that from the tube number. It all needs to be dead accurate. The driveshaft has to be the right length to have the right free play on the speedometer gear and front bearing. About 1/8" inch is right. The radius rod bracket will need to be moved. I made a tool to straighten the warpage.

[qmdv]

Seams that if you measure and early rear end from front of torque tube to the center of the axles. Then bolt up your 34 torque tube to your late 32 rear end and take the same measurement then do the math

Tim

[V8COOPMAN]

Tex.....Before you get too far ahead of things, you must realize that there were TWO different lengths for '33/'34 torque tubes and drive shafts. V8 drive shafts and torque tubes for '33/'34 are 1-1/2" longer than the 4-cylinder versions. 1933 and 1934 are the same, either year. See the dimensions below.

TORQUE TUBES '33/'34

V8 = 61-13/16"
4-cyl = 60-3/16"

DRIVE SHAFTS '33/'34

V8 = 60-5/32"
4-cyl = 58-7/16"
__________________________________

1932 SCALLOPED Torque Tube and Drive Shaft

'32 Torque Tube = 53=5/16"
'32 Drive Shaft (Matching) = 51-5/8"

NOTE that TAPERED drive shafts need to be shortened at the rear end, so that you don't end-up with a fat portion trying to fit into the tapered front end of torque tube.

NOTE also that the important dimension for the drive shaft is matching the distance between the speedo drive gear (when properly lined-up in the front of the torque tube), and the hole for the pin that secures the rear of the shaft to the pinion spline. Click the "T5 W/TORQUE TUBE " at the bottom left of this post. Scroll down to post #6 for some idea (with pics) of how we shortened our '35 TT and D-Shaft. Hope this helps. DD

[John R]

From the Ford factory drawings:
Torque tube: the overall length from the face of the rear flange to the face of the bell mouth for the 33-34 V8 tube is 61.876" +/- .008" (4 cyl is 1.70" shorter) and 53.365" +/- .008" for the late 32 torque tube. Shorten the V8 tube by 8.511" at the front end, behind the bearing seat, starting at 6.31" behind the face of the bell where there is a straight section about 10" long. Also, when welding the bell end back onto the shortened tube, rotate the bell end so that the speedo opening is at the 5 o'clock position when viewed from behind. When setting up to weld, you might consider pressing a sleeve into the tube to help positioning the bell end square with the rest of the tube.

For the driveshaft, the overall length of the 33-34 shaft is 60.167" +/- .030" (V8) (4 cyl is again 1.70" shorter). The 32 shaft is 51.660" +/- .030". Difference is 8.507" for the 33-34 V8 shafts.

Hope this helps.

[RalphM]

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You don’t need a machine shop,. I shortened a 37 torque tube to fit my 32 frame using a chop saw and a piece of angle set in a “V” to align it up. Tack it and check the alignment by sliding it over your driveshaft to rear end. If there is no binding of front bearing, and speedo gear lines up, weld it in place.

[qmdv]

Originally Posted by RalphM

You don’t need a machine shop,. I shortened a 37 torque tube to fit my 32 frame using a chop saw and a piece of angle set in a “V” to align it up. Tack it and check the alignment by sliding it over your driveshaft to rear end. If there is no binding of front bearing, and speedo gear lines up, weld it in place.

But how did you shorten the the driveshaft without machining. Did you cut and weld it.

[Tex]

Awesome guys, this is exactly what I needed to know. I will verify my '34 torque tube is a V8 which is what the frame had in it then remove the said amount and i can weld it up myself, just heard all this talk about beveling the edges with lathe, I will confirm lengths when I get home tonight.

[cas3]

the reason for the lathe is that the cut off tool will make a perfect true cut. then when the two shortened parts are put together, they are already straight. i then do the first tack welds in the lathe with a dial indicator in place, so you can see how far out of whack the weld pulled it, then correct it before you do another tack on the opposite side. the method ralph used will work if you take the time to square your cuts prior to welding. easy on a later tube that is straight for the last two feet or so, not so easy on a 33-34 because its a continuous tapered tube. surely you must know some one with a lathe to make some nice cuts for you, then you can weld it at home with some care. drive shaft, again lathe is best. easiest at home method is use a later tube and solid shaft with the center bearing. dime a dozen, then with a lathe cut the rear of the shaft down to fit inside the rear coupler and weld it. also, the beveld edge is for a good weld penetration. you doo that with a grinder, but just dont go so far that you loose the true edge that was cut in the lathe

[RalphM]

Originally Posted by qmdv

But how did you shorten the the driveshaft without machining. Did you cut and weld it.

used a hollow driveshaft from speedway. I did take it to the driveline shop to have it cut and balanced.

[Tex]

Well, I actually got lucky with the help of the Ford Barn and the torques tube and driveshaft had already been cut down to work in a '32 Ford, 53" 3/8 length on the tube, installed the engine and transmission last weekend and it fit perfectly.