Recommend a few top places to get new brake shoes for '40 brakes

[Tim Ayers]

OK Fellas,

I'm not sure if they are all the same, but I'd like to get some recommendations on a few top places to get new brake shoes for '40 brakes.

I have plenty of cores (if guys still take them) to send them or will buy the shoes outright.

Thanks,

Tim

[KGS]

Dover Brake and Clutch used to reline brake shoes but I' not sure if they still do them. In '98 or '99 they did the shoes for my '32.
Ken

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by KGS

Dover Brake and Clutch used to reline brake shoes but I' not sure if they still do them. In '98 or '99 they did the shoes for my '32.
Ken

Thanks, Ken. Website looks like they are doing well.

[Charlie Stephens]

See if you can find a place that will arc the shoes to a brake drum diameter you give them. They may not exist.

Charlie Stephens

[PeteVS]

Several people have advised to avoid the new repro shoes that are on the market now. You'd be much better off having your old shoes relined.

[Tim Ayers]

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Thanks, all. Do shoes need to be riveted in order to be able to be relined?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Thanks, all. Do shoes need to be riveted in order to be able to be relined?

No, they do not need to be reivited.

I'd like to add that arcing, as has been previously advised, is nearly a necessity. It truly makes a huge difference in the braking efficiency.
Many shops that reline shoes still do this. I'd strongly suggest you seek one out.
And, also as has been advised, stay away from the repop shoes...

[ford38v8]

And stay away from the new brake lining material. It doesn't have the asbestos content that the old shoes had, and has an increased amount of soft metal inclusions for longer wear. The result of these changes is a shoe of greatly reduced stopping power.

One source:

Brake Materials & Parts Inc. brakematerialsandparts.webs.com
Everything in Brakes, whatever it Takes...Your Brake Experts

[john in illinois]

Dennis Lacey Early V8 Garage has good linings bonded to your core. He has to get a minimum of 6 pairs so there is a waiting period. He does not stock them Also arcs them if wanted.

John

[51504bat]

Don't know anything about this company but its in Jersey:
http://industrialbrakeclutch.com/

Historic Cars and Motorcycles
In addition to our other brake relining and clutch relining services we also do relining for all classic, historic, or antique cars, trucks, and motorcycles. We have the capabilities and experience to service any make, model, or year plus we can custom fabricate brake shoes, bands, or clutches to your exact specifications. Discontinued brakes are always welcome as well.

2 Route 9 North
Morganville, NJ 07751
Phone: (732) 970-0090

[mobileparts]

I have the 1939 - 1941 Ford, Mercury, and Ford Truck Brake Shoes --
12" x 1 3/4" Front & Rear -- the ol' # 38....... and
I have the 1942 - 1948 Ford Mercury, and 1942 - 1947 Ford Truck Brake
Shoes -- 12" x 1 3/4" Front & Rear -- the ol' # 37 .....
Both NEW, completely lined, and with NO CORE CHARGES REQUIRED ....
No shipping back the old cores!!!!!!!!!!!!

And in NEW ++ Asbestos ++ such that you don't rip up the brake drums!!!!

Feel free to call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485- 1935 .... Long Island, New York...
(Also have the NEW Master Cylinder, NEW Wheel Cylinders, NEW Brake Hoses, and NEW Wheel Bearings and Seals --- ALL USA MADE....)

[Tim Ayers]

Thanks all.

[Lenny51]

I had my 51 Ford brake shoes relined in Rochester NY they put a softer lining on &
arcked each pair of shoes to the drum size
IT still doesen stop good all new wheel cylinders , new flex hoses , new brake lines &
a new dual master cylinder from shoe box central I have blead the brakes many times
Thinking about a disc brak kit from Shoe box central for the front

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Lenny51

I had my 51 Ford brake shoes relined in Rochester NY they put a softer lining on &
arcked each pair of shoes to the drum size
IT still doesen stop good all new wheel cylinders , new flex hoses , new brake lines &
a new dual master cylinder from shoe box central I have blead the brakes many times
Thinking about a disc brak kit from Shoe box central for the front

Lenny, There's no denying that disc brakes are better than drums & shoes, but you have an antique car there and should be driving it as such. If it is able to stop like it did when it was new and you're not happy with that, then you're in the wrong hobby.

When we were kids with no money and no brakes, we were invincible, but at our age, we need to get those brakes done right and drive defensibly!

[philipswanson]

A large segment of our hobby is doing Restomods. Like it or not, it is here to stay. Nothing wrong with doing disc brakes on your car if that's what you want. You are in the right hobby if you like old cars and obviously you do.

[tubman]

Lenny, Respectfully, there may be something wrong with the way your brakes are set up. The statement that you have "ble(a)d the brakes many times" gives me pause; did you perchance use Dot-5 brake fluid? It can be extremely difficult to bleed, especially on a car with an underfloor master cylinder like these Fords. Also I wonder if the replacement master cylinder has the proper characteristics. I have a '51 club coupe with bone stock brakes and I never give them a second thought. They stop as good as any car I have (I am used to a "heavy" pedal, owning two disc brake Corvettes without the power brake option.) When I did the car in 1987, I replaced everything; hard lines, flex lines, master and brake cylinders, everything. When I had it apart, I found it had the original "script" brake shoes so I had them relined with new riveted linings. After 30 years and 17,000 miles I did a minor adjustment last summer and the pedal is high and firm. Maybe I have low standards, but I don't think so.

[40 Deluxe]

You can arc your own shoes without grinding. What you want is for the shoe to contact the drum at the midpoint of the shoe with maybe 1/32" clearance at each end of the lining-the shoe should 'rock' slightly. This is necessary because the shoe web flexes slightly when applied. If the shoe were to fit the drum exactly, most of the braking force would be at the end of the lining instead of the entire lining area. Usually, after the drum is turned, the shoe 'rocks' way too much and now most of the braking force is concentrated in the center of the lining.
To correct, stand the shoe up with each end resting on the floor or bench and smack the middle of the lining with a Computhane or heavy rubber mallet. This will spread the shoe slightly. Keep checking and smacking until you get the proper fit. I was taught this many years ago, and it does work!