Transmission Shift Fork Pins

[Dave1931Pickup]

Hi Everyone, What is a good method for backing up the head of the shifting fork pins for upsetting the hollow head. So far I have tried various chisels, screwdrivers and chunks of steel only to find that I need six hands and more patience. Also after they are upset it appears that they would still be loose. Is that right. I've heard a few people say to use roll pins, but I want to do it the way Henry did it.
Thanks for your help, Dave

[Brian T]

Hi Dave,
I have been there a few times with success, but find the roll pins a better option, do not remember the size.

[1955cj5]

I did it the first time with rivets, but they never would tighten up...always a little movement in the shift forks.

I made a bucking tool that held the heads and fit tightly in the case, but it seemed the available rivets did not have a deep enough recess in the end to allow them to tighten properly.

I used the roll pins the second time when I changed to a front mount brake handle.

Much better..


.

[sjhark]

I just finished this job last week. I took a pair of Crescent brand slip joint pliars and adjusted them so they clamped against the head of the rivet and the opposite side of the fork, with the handles almost closed. I then clamped the handles together with a pair of vice grips and used a hammer and large center punch to spread the end of the rivet. Worked like a charm.
Old combat adage: if it looks stupid, but it works, it's not stupid!

[1955cj5]

Originally Posted by sjhark

I just finished this job last week. I took a pair of Crescent brand slip joint pliars and adjusted them so they clamped against the head of the rivet and the opposite side of the fork, with the handles almost closed. I then clamped the handles together with a pair of vice grips and used a hammer and large center punch to spread the end of the rivet. Worked like a charm.
Old combat adage: if it looks stupid, but it works, it's not stupid!

The factory must have had a tool like your pliar/vice-grip combo. Maybe more like a vice-grip with a forked jaw to clamp the rivets tight before setting...

[Dick M]

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Place a punch in the hollow end and roll it around to make the hollow end larger..

[2manycars]

Hardened split pins (sometimes called roll pins) work the best. Easy to install and a tight fitting fork when done.

[Dave1931Pickup]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

I did it the first time with rivets, but they never would tighten up...always a little movement in the shift forks.

I made a bucking tool that held the heads and fit tightly in the case, but it seemed the available rivets did not have a deep enough recess in the end to allow them to tighten properly.

I used the roll pins the second time when I changed to a front mount brake handle.

Much better..


.

I agree about the available rivets not having deep enough recess to tighten up. I'm sure that the factory had a special tool like sjhark made.

Thanks everyone, I'm switching to 3/16" X 1-7/8" roll pins.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Dick M

Place a punch in the hollow end and roll is around to make the hollow end larger..

Yep, that's how I do them, and it works great.

[Russ/40]

I decided on roll pins. Not 100% comfortable with that, I ran safety wire through the roll pins and around the fork shaft. They weren't going anywhere.

[31 RPU]

Russ,
I did the same thing.
I took a dermal tool and made a groove on the opposite side of the split in the pin for the safety wire to lie in.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by 31 RPU

Russ,
I did the same thing.
I took a dermal tool and made a groove on the opposite side of the split in the pin for the safety wire to lie in.

Even better yet! Great idea!

[Dave1931Pickup]

Originally Posted by Dave1931Pickup

I agree about the available rivets not having deep enough recess to tighten up. I'm sure that the factory had a special tool like sjhark made.

Thanks everyone, I'm switching to 3/16" X 1-7/8" roll pins.

I screwed up. The proper roll pin is 3/16" X 7/8" not 1-7/8".
Sorry for the bad info, Dave

[tommymdot]

I do not like the roll pins. They are not as substantial as a solid pin. It would have been easier for Henry to use roll pins too, but he built his cars to last.

I buy 3/16 X 7/8 solid steel pins and weld a head on one end.
I insert the pin in the fork assembly from the top using long neck pliers and drive it down with a punch.
Once the pin is driven home, I weld a head on the other side of the pin.
Will last forever.

[Flathead]

Roll pins were not available in the 30's. If they were I bet we would have seen their use on the A.

[Steve Schmauch]

There is an easy solution. Take care in removing the original rivets. The flared end will close up as it is pushed upwards through the fork. To re-use the originals, I use a long thin drift placed upward in the hole and needle nose pliers to manuever the hole in the end of the pin so it slips onto the protruding drift. A screwdriver may be needed to push the pin down into its (former) position. Us a larger drift to carefully flare the end of the pin. It only needs to be loose fitting and flared only slightly, as Henry did it. Done this way the pin can be re-used several times. Really a simple job!

[Brentwood Bob]

I have reused the original pins as Steve has explained. Should easily be trouble free in my lifetime, or should I say for many shifts.

[Bigsnapper43]

In the kit sold by the suppliers is a very small c clamp. It has a cup for the head of the pin to set in. I would say it is a 2" c clamp. If you are rebuilding the shift housing without the kit I pitty you. Having done 15 plus units without the kit my religion was tested heavily. I bought the kit!!! No more wondering about the spring or chasing the casting on the work bench. I would not attempt the rebuild without the kit.