31 Model A SW Town Sedan Project Roof Restoration

[JohnB15632]

The temperatures today were in the 60's!!!!! So, I was able to open my garage an work on my Model A.

I got the ribs installed in the roof.

Questions:
1. Do I countersink the rib connections first so the fastener are countersunk?
2. Would it be a good idea to put wood glue on the joints before screwing them together. I have always been told that glued joints are stronger.

Thank you,

[1930artdeco]

I would assume the fasteners need to be counter sunk so as to be smooth and not rip any fabric.

Mike

[Big hammer]

My 31 tudor ribs where counter bored, you sure would not anything poking through you top

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Do NOT glue those joints.

[JohnB15632]

One follow up question,

Do any of the wood pieces need to be polyurethane coated?

Thanks,

[Tom Wesenberg]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have a set of nice original top bows for my 1929 Tudor that I will install someday to replace the homemade hacked out bows. Without digging them out I was just wondering of the mounting holes are tapered for flathead screws, or are they counterbored with a flat surface for round head screws?

It seems the tapered countersink would put side pressure on the wood and make it more likely to split.

[JohnB15632]

I have not yet installed fasteners nor drilled holes for the fasteners. I have seen drywall screws used in a video that I saw. It is my understanding that these fasteners, drywall screws, would require the use of the counterboring. I have been researching this topic, and to date, can not find reference as to the type of fasteners used.

Thanks,

[JohnB15632]

Is there a size for these stainless wood screws?

[Big hammer]

My 31 tudor's old bows where counter bored with stove bolts,washers,and nuts. The kit i purchased came with stove bolts,washers,and nuts. I should have stated that in my earlier post:-( This may have not been original as the left wood member from the header back was not one piece,possibly my car had been wrecked at one time.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Do NOT glue those joints.

I was thinking the same before I saw this post - is that to allow the body to twist and flex around with the frame? If not why? Just curious...

[JohnB15632]

I am more confused now, then before I started this post.

To secure the ribs, should I countersink or counter bore the wood to insert the fasteners?

If I should countersink, do I use flat head bolts? do I use stove bolts? do I use stainless steel screws?

[Barber31]

The kit I purchased which I don't remember who I purchased from had the bows counter bored with bolts lock washers and nuts. The bolts were not like your picture. They were pan head bolts.

[Barber31]

Also, I did give 3 coats of wood preservative to all the wood pieces I installed. Might as well go the extra mile to preserve the wood for as long as possible.

[JohnB15632]

If I use Pan Head Bolts, are they like one of the ones pictured below?

Is the side wood then countered bored to hide the bolt, nut, and washer underneath? If the bolt sticks down below the wood, would it interfere with the installation of the interior fabric?

Thanks,

[Bob C]

Go to Brent's site, he has a lot of pictures of restorations he has done.
Maybe you can get some ideas. http://www.model-a-ford.com/restoration_dept.shtml

Bob

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by JohnB15632

If I use Pan Head Bolts, are they like one of the ones pictured below?

Is the side wood then countered bored to hide the bolt, nut, and washer underneath? If the bolt sticks down below the wood, would it interfere with the installation of the interior fabric?

Thanks,

The head liner attaches to the side of the bows,and hangs down from the bows. The sides of the head liner is covered by the side vertical interior panels. The hardware i used(stove bolts,machine screws) i may have installed with nuts on the top side of the bows in the counter bores(its been a while) the top side of the bows need to be smooth so nothing will stick through the top material! I cut the bolts two length and filed the ends down so they did not stick above the top of the bows. Hope this helps and good luck! PS I did alot of sitting in the body and did alot of thinking:-)

[JohnB15632]

Good Afternoon,

Gentlemen, I find this thread to becoming almost comical. For you see, I now have three different answers from three different professionals.

I have been told three different methods to connect the roof ribs to the side wood.

#1. Use stainless steel wood screws, requiring the use of a countersink
#2. Pan head bolts, insert from the bottom, secured with nuts at the top. Both top and bottom must be counter bored.
#3. Use 10 x 32 x 1" machine screws counter bored from the top only. They can stick through the bottom slightly. (From Steve at Bart's). I am leaning toward this recommendation.

Now, can I get a consensus as to the most correct method to secure the ribs.

On to a second completely different issue, but concerning the roof wood installation.
I installed a fastener to secure the side to the front this fastener in under the side wood. Attached is a picture of the side front. Obviously, I have put in the wrong fastener which must be replaced. What is the correct fastener for this location?

[Big hammer]

Well I am glad gluings out! I would not use wood screws( a friends new house in Colorado after one year, their doors became loose because the wood the screws where in, the wood had dried out and would not hold) #2 counter boring the wood on the bottom IMO is extra work not needed.#3 is more like what I did and would do again! It worked for me and I was not worrying what the fine points judges would say:-) Your last question don't know and I will refrain comments except, that may by a good place for a counter bore???