Fuel regulator

[WQ59B]

Specs: '46-48 59AB, all stock (other than dual exhaust).
Ford 94 carb rebuilt & double-checked for float level & needle stickiness. Under my ownership, the truck only ran once, when the PO loaded it onto my trailer. I didn't see exactly what he did as far making it run, but it climbed the trailer ramps well enough. Gas stunk to high heaven tho. Project slept.

13 years later and I am right on the edge of getting the truck rolling again. As I got it, the mechanical pump was bypassed (no line in or out) and an ancient Bendix 6V electric pump was doing fuel duty.

Recent re-start procedures had the Bendix running seemingly fine; pumping vigorously when the toggle was turned ON, then slowing & stopping when the system was pressurized. Ignition issue prevented a restart. Ignition issue was remedied (thanks Skip!), then Bendix was acting very sleepy and would not run at the same speed nor feed the carb.

Filled carb manually and started truck, ran smooth as silk until carb emptied. Did this twice.

Replaced Bendix with Airtex E8902 and it runs fine but floods carb out the vent tubes. Rechecked float & valve- OK. Airtex recommended a regulator.

Question : if I install a regulator to address flooding, can I theoretically run the electric pump ONLY and continue to bypass the mechanical pump?

[SofaKing]

yes.

[19Fordy]

Regulator pressure should be 2 1/2 to 3 psi.
Do a search for Fuel Regulator and much info. appears.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by WQ59B

Question : if I install a regulator to address flooding, can I theoretically run the electric pump ONLY and continue to bypass the mechanical pump?

The regulator shouldn't care where or what the fuel source is, it is just "regulating" the fuel output to a specific range. As stated already you are wanting the output to be in the 2 1/2 to 3 psi range. I would even consider 2 to 2 1/2. Might be a good idea to at least have a temporary fuel pressure gauge hooked up so you can see what you actually have!

[19Fordy]

J: Just as a point of info. I found that when I mounted my fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment I first had to empty out some of the silicone fluid in the gauge in order to have it show a steady reading. Otherwise, it would drop back to 0. The needle now bounces a little, but it's "readable". Gauge is attached to the fuel regulator.

[WQ59B]

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My truck is a COE, so the fuel system is pretty short linearly & all 'in the cab'.
I have a coolant temp gauge in the glove box but its probably a bad idea to mount the regulator/ gauge in the glove box & add that vertical column of fuel line going downhill to the carb. Otherwise I have to have the doghouse off to see any gauge.

Autozone only had a "Spectre" brand 1-4 PSI regulator, I passed on that one.

Thanks for the PSI gauge tip, Fordy.

[WQ59B]

Installed a used, known-condition adjustable regulator and it seems to be doing the job. Ran the truck twice yesterday, for 10 secs and then maybe 40- radiator was out and didn't want to get it hot (heads were about 80 degrees to the touch in 60 degree ambient temp). It ran solid and steady.

Now on to carb issues- it was idling pretty high (vs. previous short-time run periods). No tach so no numbers. I have a Ford 91-99 carb, rebuilt, good float properly set.

The 91-99 has a secondary 'lever' opposite the throttle lever- it's attached via an aluminum 'hat' with a spring under it. Hat limits lever movement from about 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, but I may have this set wrong. COE doghouse has hole for a rod to come thru, just like the choke rod- but the rod's not going to move the level from 12-6; it would need to be from 9-3 to pull/push it. What does this lever do?

[SofaKing]

I think you are referring to the hand throttle lever.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

J: Just as a point of info. I found that when I mounted my fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment I first had to empty out some of the silicone fluid in the gauge in order to have it show a steady reading. Otherwise, it would drop back to 0. The needle now bounces a little, but it's "readable". Gauge is attached to the fuel regulator.

Great that you have it in the engine compartment - always makes me nervous when guys run a pressure line inside the driver's compartment (without a pressure segregator). Imagine a leak right on top of your pants - that then gets a spark! No birth control needed after that point! LOL

[Drbrown]

Sidenote: I believe the proper carb for a '46-'48 is #59. My '47 59AB ran okay with a later (post 1948) Holly 2100 but required internal changes. I now have a #59 on it. Off-shore manufactured regulators may be a problem.

I use my gas bowl mechanical pump for regular duty and an Airtex for starting only. Both test at a steady 3psi individually. No problems after 4 years of operation.

[WQ59B]

My motor is a collage of different years. The basic engine is a 59AB, '46-48, but it is still running the 91-99 truck carb & helmet distributor. My assumption is the original motor went and they took 'good' pieces and put it on the newer motor. No idea when this was done and there's no visible signs it was done other than looking at components/numbers- it was a long time ago.

RE the hand throttle- how would this ideally be used in concert with the foot throttle? I need to be sure it's not affecting the idle speed- it doesn't have a lot of resistance and I have no lever to operate it once the doghouse is on. If I can 'turn it off' so only the gas pedal operated the throttle- that seems to be the way to go… but does it need a lever to 'lock' it in the 'off' position?

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by WQ59B

RE the hand throttle- how would this ideally be used in concert with the foot throttle? I need to be sure it's not affecting the idle speed- it doesn't have a lot of resistance and I have no lever to operate it once the doghouse is on. If I can 'turn it off' so only the gas pedal operated the throttle- that seems to be the way to go… but does it need a lever to 'lock' it in the 'off' position?

I believe that the hand throttle rod is held at a "setting" by friction of the rod in the grommet, same as choke, but I do not have one either. I have the little hat, same as you and having the linkage removed does not prevent me from using the carb as is. The throttle plates only move 90 degrees, 12 and 6 is 180 degrees. When you verified 12 and 6 was the carb disassembled?

[40cpe]

The accelerator return spring controls the return of the throttle and accelerator. Having no throttle rod connected will not affect the carburetor operation.

[WQ59B]

When I ran the motor the 40 secs or so the other day, it was idling noticeably higher than the last time it briefly ran. When I started it the first time the other day, I shut it down after like 5-10 secs it was revving what seemed to be that high (I would estimate 1000 or 1200 RPM). The restart was slightly lower, maybe 800-1000, but not the circa 400 it's supposed to/ it did a number of weeks ago.

if one needs the hand throttle rod to 'lock' the hand throttle lever into a higher fuel delivery position, and I do NOT have a rod attached there, I guess the main throttle return spring (I have a good one w good tension) would override whatever position the hand throttle lever may be on or vibrate to, correct?

Just puzzled as to why this time is was idling fast… with a manual choke (which I did manipulate while it was running- to no avail) there is no 'high idle circuit' like on auto choke carbs.

I'm going to look closely at both the hand throttle lever & the main throttle linkage to make sure nothing is hanging up anywhere. Also need to perhaps fine-tune the carb. Any other suggestions?

[SofaKing]

[QUOTE=WQ59B;1387855 Just puzzled as to why this time is was idling fast… with a manual choke (which I did manipulate while it was running- to no avail) there is no 'high idle circuit' like on auto choke carbs.

The choke has a "fast idle" setting when the choke rod is pulled out slightly. Look at the lever on the side of the carb and you will see how it operates. Also, 'not sure if you are giving all the details but 40 seconds is not long enough for a carb'd engine to settle into idle in my experience.
(edit: My carb has the fast idle setting on choke, I should not assume yours does. Worth a look.)

[WQ59B]

• I see & understand the high idle 'cam' on the choke lever. This specific area seems to be working fine.

• Swapped out throttle return spring for a heavier one & adjusted the idle speed screw. Turned over much faster and idled down where it should be.

• With a manual choke, it's not going to 'settle into low idle' unless the lever is moved. Still learning this carb, but it looks like it would stay 'choked' as long as the lever was pulled out.

• Also shortened up the fuel hoses & secured the pressure regulator, got trapped air out of the filter & it's no longer sitting dead horizontal, but it's at a 45-degree angle.

• Carb sometimes weeps from base gasket, but it MIGHT be from the throttle shaft, too. With base painted black it's not obvious. Surfaces were checked carefully and gasket is new. Studs were replaced and I don't dare make the mounting nuts tighter. Will keep close eye on.

[Tony, NY]

You may have a vacuum leak. Making idle high.

[WQ59B]

Have to put a tach on it somehow- what is the spec for a 59AB : 400?

The previous start it was definitely idling high, like maybe 1000.
This last start it was much much lower, like maybe 500. Previous start was the return spring & idle speed setting- that's now remedied.

How crucial is idle speed as long as it's within 100 of spec?

[WQ59B]

UPDATE : truck has run a few times, driven twice in the driveway. All was basically very good. Yesterday, could not get it to restart, thinking about a few possibilities.

1. Have the regulator set at 1.5- probably too low but 2.5 and gas weeps out of the carb. Perhaps not accurately labeled regulator- I should get that pressure gauge put in. I did drive at this pressure setting… but only in the driveway- not at road speeds.

2. lil plastic fuel filter is 80% empty- suspect it's air bound. when I loosened the fuel line between it & the carb tho- gas squirted out under pressure. Do I need to keep this filter vertical, and do I need to try and fill it manually to get the air out? Will the fuel pump not push this air out by itself?

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by WQ59B

UPDATE : truck has run a few times, driven twice in the driveway. All was basically very good. Yesterday, could not get it to restart, thinking about a few possibilities.

1. Have the regulator set at 1.5- probably too low but 2.5 and gas weeps out of the carb. Perhaps not accurately labeled regulator- I should get that pressure gauge put in. I did drive at this pressure setting… but only in the driveway- not at road speeds.

2. lil plastic fuel filter is 80% empty- suspect it's air bound. when I loosened the fuel line between it & the carb tho- gas squirted out under pressure. Do I need to keep this filter vertical, and do I need to try and fill it manually to get the air out? Will the fuel pump not push this air out by itself?

Just a point to back up what JSeery stated,,,,use a gauge and make sure your regulator is right on. Just put a pump and regulator on my roadster last week and the regulator set on 2 is really pumping 3lbs when I put a gauge to it. Tried 1 1/2 but engine wanted to stumble just a bit. I am running a holley 94 carb. Cant trust some of those regulators.