Cheap frame spreader

[nhusa]

I am getting ready to reinstall the rebuilt motor in my wife's 31 town sedan.
I have replaced the rubber in the rear motor mounts and will most likely need a frame spreader.
I am cheap cheap cheap but innovative so I am wondering anyone has an alternative suggestion to purchasing one.

I could consider "Midnight Auto" but don't know of any local warehouses that have them and would not take advantage of a fellow Model Aer if I knew he had one.

[SeaSlugs]

bottle jack and a 4x4 post will do...

or id imagine an old bumper jack and a 2x4....

grease the mounts and spread it as little as possible, just need 1/16" clearance - dont need to fit the moon in there so think simple.

[figment]

I haven't had very good luck using a bottle jack on it's side. Or is it a problem with mine?

[old car guy]

You can always take a piece of 1 inch thick wall tubing put a 3/4 inch bolt with 2 nuts and thick washers between the frame rails and simply tighen the nuts just be careful it will move it out easly and without any issues , and you can adjust the width a little at a time

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by figment

I haven't had very good luck using a bottle jack on it's side. Or is it a problem with mine?

Some will work on their side, but some don't.

I like the pipe and bolt idea.

[Gary WA]

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Borrow one from local Model A Club! Got to be one in New Hampshire!!

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Some will work on their side, but some don't.

I like the pipe and bolt idea.

agreed, sometimes the way you orient it too makes a difference.

pipe and bolt idea sounds simple too!

[SSsssteamer]

I have found in using a hydraulic bottle jack on its side to spread the frame rails, have the pump handle hole on the top side while the bottle jack is laying horizontal. Also make sure that your bottle jack is topped off with jack oil. There usually is a rubber plug on the side of the jack. With the ram in the retracted position and the jack sitting up level (vertical), fill the bottle jack to this overflow level. Put the rubber plug back into its hole and go to work. Out of extra jack oil? I always use automatic transmission oil as a jack oil substitute. Usually I can get the A motor in and out without having to spread the frame rails. New motor mount rubber will usually put you to a frame rail squeeze test.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by old car guy

You can always take a piece of 1 inch thick wall tubing put a 3/4 inch bolt with 2 nuts and thick washers between the frame rails and simply tighen the nuts...

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

... I like the pipe and bolt idea.

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

...pipe and bolt idea sounds simple too!

Not sure that will work with the transmission already installed, or even while the transmission and engine are going in as an assembly.

[Farrell In Vancouver]

With the trans installed, I braced the Trans to the passenger rail with a chunk of 4X4 and used the jack on the drivers side of the trans to the drivers side rail. Just use the trans as a block to push against, it works fine.

[Bruce]

This worked for me: Tapered one end -- one side -- of two 4X4" chunks that were about 1 1/2' long. On the side opposite the taper I screwed a small piece of 2X. Hung the pieces on the bottom flange of the frame by the 2X. Sighted along bottom of car and marked a point just below point the flywheel housing would hang. Put a 3/4" dado across the inside -- flat side -- of the 4X4's to hold a short piece of 1X4" that acted as a fulcrum. Then used a pipe clamp across the bottom to squeeze and scissor the frame rails apart a smidge or two.
It was a very rough, very effective tool that I didn't have to buy ... and did not have to keep for my kids to throw in the dumpster. (Smiley Face)

[nhusa]

Wow Great ideas!

I will be putting the motor and transmission is together.

I tried my bottle jack one it's side a few years ago and it would not work.

If the frame does not spring back - I like the idea of using blocks on one side and jack on the other. My old scissors jack might work.

The BIG Scissor approach using a pipe clamp looks interesting - I could set it up just behind the rear motor mounts and tweek the frame as I slide the motor in place.

You have all given me something to think about!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I grease the motor mounts to help the engine slide into place. The new motor mount rubbers that I bought from Snyder's were the correct thickness (not too thick), so I've only had to use a spreader two times to install an engine. All the others slid into place just fine.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I grease the motor mounts to help the engine slide into place. The new motor mount rubbers that I bought from Snyder's were the correct thickness (not too thick), so I've only had to use a spreader two times to install an engine. All the others slid into place just fine.

Yep::
Frame spreader = a small amount of grease...

Never needed one yet

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Yep::
Frame spreader = a small amount of grease...

Never needed one yet

Plus 2

[Brentwood Bob]

Might need to loosen the front body to frame bolts.

[ford31]

I use portapower and dish soap, doesn't take much of either

[nhusa]

I had a hard time getting the motor in until I removed one rear motor mount.

As I was getting stuff for a frame spreader at the hardware store a guy drove in with a 31 Model A.
I told him what I was doing and he told me what some of you have said - slide it in with a bit of oil.
He added that he used a hammer to persuade the motor mount into place.

I tried it when I got home and it was easy.
It didn't take much persuading.
All I need to do is start attaching all the other stuff and I'll be ready to start it.

Next time I will begin with the rear motor mounts out and put them in after I have the universal attached.
Almost forgot - I will put the passenger side in last because it is easier to work on

[silversink]

port-a-power worked like a charm

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

bottle jack and a 4x4 post will do...

or id imagine an old bumper jack and a 2x4....

grease the mounts and spread it as little as possible, just need 1/16" clearance - dont need to fit the moon in there so think simple.

How about 2 2x4's with a hinge halfway. The 2x4's ends are notched so as not to slip on the frame and a bottle jack pushing up on the hinge point.

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