Still dripping oil from flywheel housing cotter pin

[bikemaniac]

Hi,

I would like to pick up my issue on my oil spillages again.

The flywheel housing expells oil in a dripping fashion from the cotter pin in the following way:

a. After engine is shut off the oil drips for about 5 min and makes a puddle about 3 in diameter.
b. When the engine is idling after high speed driving, it drips continously about a drop every 3-5 seconds.

1 A few months ago I removed the oil pan to have a look why oil was dripping from the flywheel housing cotter pin. I could not really detect any problems however I noticed that the oil breather pipe was somewhat loosely mounted by a very bad solder. I did not notice and assembled everything again.

2. Then the oil dripping was normal as commonly observed.

3. Then suddenly it started dripping a lot - on the street I could actually see where I was driving following the drops. I removed the oil pan again and experienced that the breather pipe had fallen off and was at the bottom of the oil pan!!

4. I inspected the pipe and concluded that it is not of the original type because it did not have the V-cut in it.

5. I got a tip that I could glue the pipe into place using a 2K epoxy glue. I do not have soldering equipment so this was my only option. It was glued into place taking great care of cleaning etc so I am firmly believed that the adhesion is very good. I also know that the glue should withstand at least 212 degF.

6. After assembling the oil pan again the oil dripping is back to normal again - but it has NOT gone away. I usually notice that I have to drive a few miles before it starts dripping - it is as if something is building slowly up inside.

I was told that the pipe has to dip INTO the oil such that the pressure in the crank case cannot force oil backwards up the pipe and through the main rear bearing. I was a bit unsure if my pipe was not extending into the oil and thus I tried to add a total of 7 quarts of oil into the engine to REALLY ensure that the end was covered by the oil surface in the pan. But the flywheel housing is still dripping.

Can anyone help me out?

Lucas

[colin1928]

1 7 Quarts is way to much oil and will cause a leak
2 Rear main bearing cap drain pipe (tube) must not protrude into the cap gallery
remove the plug and check
3 The tube must be well sealed and be the correct length
4 Most rear main leaks are due to worn rear main bearing or thrust (end play)
Check your bearing clearances

[bikemaniac]

I dont understand your no 2. Could you clarify?

[V4F]

if the rear cam is leaking , really clean the entire area & then start it & go under with a good lite & watch . it will leak in a hurry . if not sure where the leak is , but the oil dye kit & you will see it for sure !

[Tom Wesenberg]

#2 means the rear main cap drain tube shouldn't be so far up into the hole that it blocks the horizontal oil flow passage. If the cap is off then you can remove the small disc that plugs the end of the hole, and look to see how far in the pipe goes. I would think you could also blow through the tube back into the cap to check for good flow.

I wouldn't do anything until you lower the oil level to midway between ADD and FULL.

[Bob Bidonde]

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The leakage out of the flywheel housing can be motor oil and transmission oil. Make certain that the engine's breather pipe and the transmissions vent hole in the gearshift tower are not obstructed.

There are some breather caps that obstruct when pushed firmly down on the engine's breather. Check your cap. It should have tabs that stop it from closing-off the breather.

[andyfresno]

In my experience, this amount of leak is usually caused by oil coming out of the rear main.

You may be able to fix this by removing the rear main and removing shims.

I've seen a lot of the pipes tack welded or soldered.

That's where I'd start - -just my opinion

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The leakage out of the flywheel housing can be motor oil and transmission oil. Make certain that the engine's breather pipe and the transmissions vent hole in the gearshift tower are not obstructed.

There are some breather caps that obstruct when pushed firmly down on the engine's breather. Check your cap. It should have tabs that stop it from closing-off the breather.

Also check that some well intentioned person did not stuff a Brillo pad in the breather cap to filter the air. If the cap is restricted it will force oil out past the rear labyrinth engine seal.

A fellow Model A'er went to a local hot rod shop and purchased a highly polished chrome breather cap for his Model A. Unfortunately it was not a breather cap, but a solid cap.

He came driving over to my house with oil poring out the cotter pin hole in the clutch housing. It looked like a spigot had been turned on. When we removed the cap the leak stopped. Fortunately he had just that morning installed the cap and had not driven far when he noticed the leak, otherwise he would have trashed the engine.

Tom Endy

[jfreddie]

I would take off the flywheel housing inspection plate. Wipe the main cap down dry and start it up. Watch where the oil comes from. If oil comes out the back of the main cap then something is wrong in the rear bearing; either clogged drain passage, fractured babbitt, excessive clearance.
If oil is dripping from the main bearing bolt head, then the shims are not sealed properly.
If oil is not coming from main bearing area, then it's the cam gasket or the tranny.
The trans fluid is so thick that leaks are seldom enough to leave a big puddle and it's very easy to distintinguish it from engine oil...by smell alone.
A cam bearing gasket will cause flow externally; either out the side behind the valve cover or inside the flywheel housing. The inspection cover may have oil on the inside and you can look inside the flywheel housing with a small mirror to see oil tracking down that side. I wouldn't recommend doing that with the engine running, though.
Happy sleuthing.