Wood parts question

[daveymc29]

I read somewhere to always put (felt?) between the wood and the steel on the Model A's. Then another question occurred to me. The majority of the wood surrounding the coupe rear window could be glued together before placement into the car. Would that be a good thing? Mine is out, as the rear window had been very hard to roll up or down. I found most of the problem was the glass channel had been made with a very thin metal and had lost its grip on the glass. All of the wood appears quite solid so I cut up toothpicks and glued them into the nail and tack holes, Now I'm ready to begin reassembling it, after a few parts arrive, and I wonder how to secure the felt to the wood. Elmer's white glue? Thanks in advanced for your replies.

[burner31]

Neverheard about the felt between the wood and steel.
Mama...being the artsy crafty type, says glue will soak through the felt and make it hard if it's thin felt.
Not sure I fully understand the rest of your question, are you asking about securing the window channel to the wood?

[Rowdy]

I try to use friction tape to as much of the wood that touches steel. The exception being the door latch posts and the cowl wood blocks as there is not enough room. This cuts down on rattles and does not retain moisture like felt does. Rod

[daveymc29]

I'm not thinking of gluing wood to metal, just gluing the wooden pieces together where they join each other. Seems to me to be possible around the rear window of my coupe and may prevent some squeezing or rattling later in life. Good idea or bad idea? I will test glue a bit of felt to the metal and see if I can brush the glue on real thin then it will hold the felt while I install the wood.

[burner31]

"FABRI-TAC" used to bond cloth to most anything, even wood.
Wal-mart
It's what mama uses in her artsy/crafty stuff.

[Mike V. Florida]

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Friction tape.

[Mitch//pa]

here is what Henry used

[Terry, NJ]

Being somewhat creative, I used a silicon sealant in some places. There was no rag fabric in the gaps on my town sedan and I could imagine the sqeaks coming off the unlubricated body steel.
Terry

[brito36]

I use friction tape. This also will stop any squeeking.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

Being somewhat creative, I used a silicon sealant in some places. There was no rag fabric in the gaps on my town sedan and I could imagine the sqeaks coming off the unlubricated body steel.
Terry

A windshield guy commented about 5 years ago that silicone in contact with metal promotes rust. I've also seen where guys attempt to seal leaks around windshield gaskets use silicone, and it really rusts quickly there. Urethane is the stuff to use, as I recall, but for the wood to metal, I'd use friction tape, cloth or felt depending on the location and gap.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

A windshield guy commented about 5 years ago that silicone in contact with metal promotes rust. I've also seen where guys attempt to seal leaks around windshield gaskets use silicone, and it really rusts quickly there. Urethane is the stuff to use, as I recall, but for the wood to metal, I'd use friction tape, cloth or felt depending on the location and gap.

What Tom said

[Terry, NJ]

Well Tom, I guess I'm screwed! Thank God I did not do the whole car's woodwork! Some of it I may even be able to remove. Who'd of thunk it. I don't associate rust with silicone and thought I was honestly doing good. Oh well, not the first time!
Terry

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

A windshield guy commented about 5 years ago that silicone in contact with metal promotes rust. I've also seen where guys attempt to seal leaks around windshield gaskets use silicone, and it really rusts quickly there. Urethane is the stuff to use, as I recall, but for the wood to metal, I'd use friction tape, cloth or felt depending on the location and gap.

[Hunter]

Davey,

I would be cautious about gluing the wood components together before installing them in the car. In my 29 Special Coupe, if I had glued and then installed the rear window area I would not have been able to make it work as a fair amount of "field fit" was involved. Perhaps doing a careful fit check, marking, and then partial glue might work.

I used friction tape or in a few cases felt that was held in place with small tacks.

Hunter

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

Well Tom, I guess I'm screwed! Thank God I did not do the whole car's woodwork! Some of it I may even be able to remove. Who'd of thunk it. I don't associate rust with silicone and thought I was honestly doing good. Oh well, not the first time!
Terry

Yep, I'm glad I learned about that because I used to use silicone to try to seal leaks. On my 1950 Studebaker, back in the 70's I used brake fluid to try to soften the windshield rubber, but it didn't seem to do much good.

[Brentwood Bob]

I seem to recall that silicone cures out with acetic acid.
Bob

[jimalabam]

Good friend of mine who operates an A1 body shop will not allow silicone in his shop for the same rust explanation as above...

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

Well Tom, I guess I'm screwed! Thank God I did not do the whole car's woodwork! Some of it I may even be able to remove. Who'd of thunk it. I don't associate rust with silicone and thought I was honestly doing good. Oh well, not the first time!
Terry

Cross your fingers and look at the tube you used to see what is in the sealant.

Look to see if it is an acetoxy-based silicone, it will smell like vinegar when applying. if not you should be good.

[Synchro909]

I've never heard of Elmer's white glue but if it is a PVA glue, it will cause rust badly too.
NEVER use PVA glue in a joint that is screwed or nailed or they will rust out in no time.