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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 62
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I'm having trouble keeping all my lights on. When I turn the light switch on they all work. but as I turn the steering wheel it causes the switch to turn off. Is there another contact switch maybe needing replaced inside the steering box other that the one on the wiring harness? Also, all lights work except the passenger side high beam. New wiring, new bulbs, everything has been replaced
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,303
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Make sure the fork is correctly positioned in the light switch housing, and the plate is also in the indexed notch and that the switch is working correctly.
The passenger high beam has a problem most likely in the light socket. Bob |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: California
Posts: 986
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Minervas' light rod was dragging. Made a Play Dough dam around the switch lever, filled it with oil & let it sit for 3 days----PROBLEM SOLVED!
Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#5 |
Senior Member
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Original style connectors at the headlight bucket are known to be a cause of problems.
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Quote:
Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Montgomery, Tx.
Posts: 143
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Laurel, MS
Posts: 126
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My switch rod had a raised area right where the lever was formed onto the round center. That was dragging on the steering wheel causing the switch to move when I turned the wheel. I filed the area under the lever until it was flush with the surrounding area and that solved the problem.
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 62
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Haven't had time to look into it further, but will check the items you all have suggested
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cotuit MA
Posts: 32
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I had the same problem with the lights turning off due to the switch being moved as I turned the steering wheel. I sanded down the steering rod to ensure that it wasn't binding inside the steering column, and the problem remained. I then took my Dremel tool and lightly ground down the perimeter of the steering wheel recess into which horn button / light switch fits, making this space slightly larger. Problem solved.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Livingston, Louisiana
Posts: 188
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I had the same issue due to the switch moving to the off position as I turned the steering wheel. As Bill mentioned I created a dam to hold oil where the switch is on the steering wheel and it did the trick.
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Ryan Scardina Livingston, Louisiana 1930 LSU Model A |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Alberta CA
Posts: 109
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There is a site as to how to fix this .Put a washer on the horn rod between the steering wheel and the and column
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#13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 9
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HI, I know this an an old post but do you have any suggestions. My lights work if I wiggle where the wires go into the bucket but that thing gets hot on one side and the passenger side the screw get real hot even though the light isn't working. I'm assuming someone over tightened the adjusting screw.
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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Tightened Minervas' adjusting screw & it sizzled & got HOT ![]() ![]() Bill W.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Maryhill Ont Canada
Posts: 834
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Hi Billy, as Bill W. suggested, you may have over tighten the adjustment screw. Doing that will cause the system to short out causing the hot spot. Are you using the original style wire connector in the headlight? If so, the replacement style wire holders are difficult to get set properly. I personally use shielded butt connectors in the headlights. I was always replacing the original connectors, because one wire would slide sideways in the holder and ground itself to the light assembly body. Although what I've is not original, it is hidden inside the headlight where no one sees it. I've never had a problem since. Good Luck and Welcome to the barn. Jeff
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#16 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 9
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Hello Jeff,
I replaced the original connectors with insulated connectors like you did. I can get one side to work in low beam, but not high, but then going back to off I lose running lights or the low beam in one or both. I think it's the switch. I'm going to see if I can get it taken out and cleaned up later today. Thank you everyone and as soon as I figure out how to post pics of the truck I will. I've tried three times and the forum won't let me for some reason. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,123
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Try reducing the size of your pictures, ie: lower resolution. That usually is the problem.
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Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#18 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 9
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Here are a couple pics, at least I think so .
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#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 1,581
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Nice looking pickup!!
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: (Old)Shasta (Redding) CA
Posts: 386
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I use a .45 cal. bore brush and light oil to clean the steering column passage, works good for me.
JB
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Connoisseur of Rust |
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